Swarm traps

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Olivia9801

House Bee
Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Messages
276
Reaction score
15
Location
Cornwall
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
7
I find it quite exciting setting up swarm traps. There is definite anticipation hoping a swarm will decide to move in. I have placed several in my garden and adjoining field by using a combination of some old nucs, my hive and now using large flower pots.

I mixed up some attracting paste yesterday from olive oil, old foundation and lemon grass oil I glue gunned some frames in the bottom of one of the pots, made a 40 mm entrance hole at the bottom, then taped the other pot to it followed by suspending them about 10 feet in the trees.

I haven't seen any bees in my field/garden this year, but whilst doing this yesterday, I was pleased to have 3 come into my workshop. Am hoping it was the scent of the paste that brought them in?

Would like to know if anyone else has tried using flower pots for swarm traps?

Fingers crossed!
 
Would like to know if anyone else has tried using flower pots for swarm traps?

If they're large plastic flower pots, then no reason why they wouldn't work [for the bees] but if they're stoneware, the disadvantage with them is that while during the day they would be warmed by the sun, at night they'd fall in temperature rapidly, which wouldn't be good for comb building or brood rearing.

In either case, if a swarm established itself inside a flower pot, the comb inside would be awkward to manage or move, easy to damage when manipulating the flower pot, and difficult to inspect.

If you don't have a spare/old hive box you can use, then any rectangular box (even strong corrugated cardboard would suffice) that will accommodate a frame or two of the size that you use in your hive might be a better option for a bait hive.
 
In either case, if a swarm established itself inside a flower pot, the comb inside would be awkward to manage or move, easy to damage when manipulating the flower pot, and difficult to inspect.

Could be an ideal colony for transfer to a TBH though.
 
I can see I may have an issue re moving the frames from the pots if a colony moves in. However, after 4 weeks of no joy re bees at my 2 nucs and hive, I placed these flower pots out only late last night as light was fading, and just been out for a patrol only to find a number of bees at all four of my flower pots and one of my nucs! They're going inside as well!

I know its early days yet, but I think it maybe down to the atrractor I am using rather than just the lemon grass oil on its own ( ie few drops in a soiled tissue inside plastic bag left open).

Regarding the size of my pots.... They are 15 inch tall and approx. 14 inch diameter, with the other inverted and temp stuck rim to rim.

I just want to get my deck chair and watch them. They are amazing!

Regards
 
Last edited:
The mannlake waxed cardboard are great for swarm traps

I tried using a cardboard box I had painted w/ two coats of latex paint. The trap is not holding up very well (but I should note that this spring has been tremendously rainy). I've put up another cardboard box more recently, also painted, but I also 'painted' a coat of paraffin w/ a little beeswax mixed on the box. Will have to see how that one holds up.
 
I tried using a cardboard box I had painted w/ two coats of latex paint. The trap is not holding up very well (but I should note that this spring has been tremendously rainy). I've put up another cardboard box more recently, also painted, but I also 'painted' a coat of paraffin w/ a little beeswax mixed on the box. Will have to see how that one holds up.

Wouldn't it be easier to simply use a national brood box with a floor and roof with frames of foundation and some old clean brood comb?
 
Not too sure where swarm trap is arriving from as our normal phrase is "bait hive"

PH
 
Yesterday was amazing with bees at all 7 of my swarm traps and lots going in. I was walking around them all morning and afternoon watching lots going inside, 3 in particular.

Fingers crossed for today as well.

If anyone is trying hard to no avail in getting bees to their traps, I thoroughly recommend this attractor recipe of a 1/4 cup of olive oil, a small wad of old foundation and twenty drops of lemon grass oil. I warmed the oil and melted the wax in a double boiler (bowl over a pan of boiling water), then poured the droplets in as its just about to set, but still soft enough to mix it all in and pourable. I then poured it into a foil food tray.

Let it cool down and rub this in to the tops of the frames and on the landing board. When not in use, make sure to keep it contained/covered.

As I said I have had 2 nucs and my hive with just a few drops of lemon grass oil for a month and nothing. Placed the additional four swarm traps very late on Tuesday evening and yesterday morning it was "buzzing!"

Just hope this progresses to a swarm soon.

Regards

Olivia9801
 
Treating swarm for phoretic varroa mites

OK so I seem to have two swarms in bait hives.

As they could be carrying phoretic mites and have no brood, is it safe and sensible to treat them with oxalic acid evaporator after hiving them and if so, how soon after they have signed their lease agreement?
 
OK so I seem to have two swarms in bait hives.

As they could be carrying phoretic mites and have no brood, is it safe and sensible to treat them with oxalic acid evaporator after hiving them and if so, how soon after they have signed their lease agreement?

I'm in a similar situation, picked up a swarm 2 days ago. I'll be giving them 'till Saturday as I saw they were drawing comb yesterday when I gave them syrup.
Also I'm a little busy 'till then. :)

.
 
Last edited:
I've treated with OA by vaporisation a day or two after hiving a swarm, either early in the day or late in the evening (might as well get all the bees). I've also done it with casts and the Q has subsequently got out to mate successfully.

It's estimated that 35% of the mites in a colony leave with a swarm and so some can be heavily infested.
 
Thanks Shark, that was my thinking.
 
OK so I seem to have two swarms in bait hives.

As they could be carrying phoretic mites and have no brood, is it safe and sensible to treat them with oxalic acid evaporator after hiving them and if so, how soon after they have signed their lease agreement?

One of the very best times to treat for varroa, make sure you do it before the first larvae are capped, then you won't have any mites hidden away in capped cells. To be certain, within 7 days of being hived.
 
I've treated with OA by vaporisation a day or two after hiving a swarm, either early in the day or late in the evening (might as well get all the bees).

Doesn't really matter if not all the bees are in the hive - it's not the 'vapours' which get the mites it's the de-sublimated micro crystals that settle on the bees afterwards - any bees out and about will get in contact with the dust on re-entering.It's effective for days after the initial vaping
 
Wouldn't it be easier to simply use a national brood box with a floor and roof with frames of foundation and some old clean brood comb?

I agree it would be... however... I have 4 of the cardboard nuc boxes from that cost me barely £25 for the 4 of them.

I can spread them around the orchard and garden and so with an old travel box, 4 ML cardboard nuc boxes, and an empty hive, I have 6 potential boxes for some scouting bees to check out.

If I wanted 6 hives/BBs with roof and floors then I would need a bit more £££ than I currently have available to me!

Also they are buggers to get up and down trees!

HOWEVER, the only swarm I have caught (last year) was indeed as you say a national (double) brood with some old comb, a reduced entrance, in a nice sunny sheltered spot.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CG5VuEDWwAIXY_p.jpg:small
 
Have you worked out how to remove the glue gunned frames from the flowerpots now there are bees using them?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top