Replacing queen excluder

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Roybaz

New Bee
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
20
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0
Location
Walton-on-Thames,England
Hive Type
WBC
Number of Hives
2
This is my first spring, 2nd season, and have been reading a lot over the winter. Later in the spring, rather than putting QE back in between brood and shallow super, is there merit in placing it above the super (in a brood box /shallow super setup) and placing a new shallow super (or 2?) on top? The colony has wintered well and seems to be growing in size already. Any views would be welcome.
Thanks
Roy
 
That's called a brood and a half, nothing wrong with it if that's what you like although inspections do take a bit longer looking through 2 boxes, 14x12 is another option and so is double brood
 
The colony has wintered well and seems to be growing in size already. Any views would be welcome.
Thanks
Roy

it hardly grows yet but because of higher temps the cluster has spreaded throughout the hive.
 
This is my first spring, 2nd season, and have been reading a lot over the winter. Later in the spring, rather than putting QE back in between brood and shallow super, is there merit in placing it above the super (in a brood box /shallow super setup) and placing a new shallow super (or 2?) on top? The colony has wintered well and seems to be growing in size already. Any views would be welcome.
Thanks
Roy

Roy, you have WBCs.
They have a distinctly small brood box - 10 frames vs 11 in a National (same frames).

If (as is likely) single brood doesn't give enough brood space, they will forever be wanting to swarm.
Brood-and-a-half is one response. Some go to double brood. Others go 14x12 (you can get 10-frame WBC 14x12's...) to get more brood space.

Personally, I think multi-brood is a pain. So I have gone 14x12 (national).
But some do like it. It provides the possibility of a quick "tipping" inspection for swarm-cells only... BUT... with WBC you'd still have to remove the lifts, and a fuller inspection is actually important to your learning what is going on in the colony.

Just as a remark in passing - a shallow box used as a brood isn't really a super.
But beyond terminology, as a small brood box, it should have small brood-type frames SN4s or SN5s. These are not a usual choice for honey supers!
You really don't want to have castellations or those nasty push-on (plastic or metal) spacers in a brood shallow.
The exactly correct spacing for brood frames is very important - regardless of whether they are deep or shallow.
 
Others go 14x12 (you can get 10-frame WBC 14x12's...) to get more brood space.

Agreed - my WBC's are all 14 x 12 now
 
a shallow is not a super if it is a brood box.

that's a bit too deep for me!
 
.
This is your first spring.
You should not worry about excluder and about super now.

The focus is to build up the colony

- first tight space
- take care of hive heat
- not too much food in the hive and not too few
- not too much ventilation

when the colony start to grow, give space

follow the build up and learn.

Then you must get empty the combs where are now crystallized honey.
But it is better do when hive should have a new super, about 2 months later.

.
 
Thank you. It sounds like brood and a half or double brood will for my stage be too much work. I guess I move to 10 frame 14x12s or try to manage possible swarming. My 2nd WBC is empty so rather than getting another colony for it, I wait for the probable swarm? Thanks again. Roy
 
Thank you. It sounds like brood and a half or double brood will for my stage be too much work. I guess I move to 10 frame 14x12s or try to manage possible swarming. My 2nd WBC is empty so rather than getting another colony for it, I wait for the probable swarm? Thanks again. Roy

Your bees are quite likely to swarm at some time whether they are on single or double brood. Wait until you have to A/S and then you will have two hives as you desire.
Cazza
 

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