Promoting a nuc...

[Jambo]

They were in better fettle this evening (5pm), still a bit grumpy though. Opened the new hive and the first thing I see is that the Queen was on the frame I had quickly assessed to be stores last night... well at least that was one less thing to think about while doing the transfer. Quite a lot of flying bees had relocated as planned I think.

Transfer was ok but needed a lot of smoke to keep them in check. Quickly checked each frame for emergency cells but wasn't thorough.

Unfortunately a few bees had orientated to where I put the nuc last night so they were flying around in a confused state. Replaced the empty nuc and caught as many as I could and opened the lid of the nuc at the door of the new hive - not sure if this worked entirely.

Many bees took to the air and the whole lot seemed to have a thorough sort out, and took a while to calm down. Wish I'd had some air freshener as maybe the effective re-uniting would have gone better then.

Anyway all done now and don't think there were too many casualties!!

 

[JWF]

Transfer was ok but needed a lot of smoke to keep them in check. Quickly checked each frame for emergency cells but wasn't thorough.

Well done for getting it sorted quickly and also for thinking on your feet about the stragglers

Check back through the hive at the weekend to have another check for EQ cells - though if they started any they may well tear them down now they've got their queen back.

Are the extra frames foundation? If so, it might be worth a quick feed of light syrup to encourage them to draw them out so they've got somewhere to put stores for the winter.

 

[JWF]

Oh and wash those gloves to get rid of the residues of the stings!

 

[Jambo]

Well done for getting it sorted quickly and also for thinking on your feet about the stragglers

Thanks, I suppose it is like many things in life that you don't learn a lot when it all goes well. In hindsight, regarding the stragglers, a much better strategy on the first night would have been to place the nuc on top of the hive, maybe rotated 90 degrees. Similar idea to a Snelgrove board, flying bees would mostly have migrated to the bottom box and no issues with any bees orientating to the new location. Easy to think this up when you're not in the thick of it though.

Check back through the hive at the weekend to have another check for EQ cells - though if they started any they may well tear them down now they've got their queen back.

Yep will do.

Are the extra frames foundation? If so, it might be worth a quick feed of light syrup to encourage them to draw them out so they've got somewhere to put stores for the winter.

They are foundation yes... I have them a full frame feeder of light-ish (1.5:1) syrup, so hopefully they can crack on with that. Not a lot flowering here in any case, so I've started winter feeding my other colonies too.

Oh and wash those gloves to get rid of the residues of the stings!

Indeed - but I'm hesitating because I'm told that the leather gloves are never quite the same after you wash them. Any tips?

 

[madasafish]

Thanks, I suppose it is like many things in life that you don't learn a lot when it all goes well. In hindsight, regarding the stragglers, a much better strategy on the first night would have been to place the nuc on top of the hive, maybe rotated 90 degrees. Similar idea to a Snelgrove board, flying bees would mostly have migrated to the bottom box and no issues with any bees orientating to the new location. Easy to think this up when you're not in the thick of it though.



Yep will do.



They are foundation yes... I have them a full frame feeder of light-ish (1.5:1) syrup, so hopefully they can crack on with that. Not a lot flowering here in any case, so I've started winter feeding my other colonies too.



Indeed - but I'm hesitating because I'm told that the leather gloves are never quite the same after you wash them. Any tips?

Throw them away. You have little if any feeling in them.

Nitriles - or double nitriles - or marigolds are better for the bees and can be discarded after a session.. Far more feeling...
Unless of course you enjoy killing bees /or keeping aggressive bees/or riling bees...

(Nitriles from ECP - not black - but buy the more expensive at around £11 /100 delivered free.)

 

[drex]

Yes, ditch them. Keep them only for very aggressive hives. They make you clumsy and that will agitate the bees. Marigolds are much better, can be washed after each hive in hive tool bucket, and give perfectly adequate protection. Stings can penetrate but not fully, so little effect.
The one pair of leathers I have are old now, and little used. I use saddle soap for cleaning them

 

[Swarm]

Leather gloves do not make you clumsy.
Leather gloves do not prevent you being able to feel.

Wear the correct size (one size smaller) and you can feel bees on lugs and you don't get flappy finger tip syndrome.
For me, anything nitrile, vinyl or rubber just fill with sweat and are awful for anything more than a quick inspection. Leather gloves soak up the sweat and don't leave my hands a wrinkled mush.

Oh, and the bees will sting through any of the above including the leather ones.

Wash them and treat with Neatsfoot oil.

 

[Beefriendly]

Leather gloves do not make you clumsy.
Leather gloves do not prevent you being able to feel.

You are correct, but I think you mean those thin calf skin gloves worn a size too tight and finger ends cut and sewn back to suit your finger length.
I have some BB Buffalo ones...little feel, no stings felt and reserved only for that really aggressive hive where anything else worn is going to get very painful....and you also know it's going to escalate out of control because you can't feel the stings and they build up and your gloves become a wafting area of alarm pheromone. But at least it's not painful, frightening at times but necessary occasionally when one's bee breeding has not gone as desired, or the experimental cross was not as expected.