Poly Jumbo Langstroth to 14x12

[oliver90owner]

PeterS,

If you do as rooftops suggests, as far as I can see, so far (from my short experience of Paradise Farms 'pollies'), is that there is more than adequate room for a wider than normal frame feeder. Coupled to there being no need for it to be water-tight (for fondant) it could be constructed such as to hold quite a large quantity of feed.

It looks like a downside for us 'converters to National' who prefer symetrical infills.

A fondant feeder at one end would allow a massive amount of space for filling with feed.

I am thinking here that Darren's hollow-infill is a better idea than my styrofoam blocks......Might try it on next year's batch as I am impressed by the lightness, which is definitely an up-side for me at present......

Regards, RAB

 

[jezd]

Rab, do know the fill depth on the sides needed so there is no cavity - what thickness would the timber need to be on each side to make national and have no cavity?

ta

Jez

 

[Black Comb]

Thanks
To my inexperienced brain frame feeders meant syrup so I've learnt something here.

 

[oliver90owner]

jezd,

Thickness 46.5mm is what I estimate with a couple of layers, or so, of fablon. I did remove the divider mouldings at the end walls as I will not be using the nucs as 2 x three-frame-Langstroth. I haven't checked for any brace comb (or propolising) since chucking a small colony in each of them. I am confident they will be fine.

Depth was about 335mm. I didn't bother too much as the styrofoam was simply zipped off a previous strip sawn to 239mm wide. Final infill at the top was a small strip to fill the space for the original frame rest. Trimming carefully to the required height was a piece of cake with a sharp knife. Covering with fablon was easier on the second effort, too. I cut a rectangle off behind the original entrance on just the one piece of the pair.

If I were doing a lot, I would sort out my radial saw but I just used a crosscut chopsaw I got several years ago (for a good price) and while it is reproducible from one side is not quite accurate from both sides of the saw blade. The rebates to fit into the floor moulding and for the frame lugs were cut by removing the riving knife and passing over a bench saw blade. A router table set up would be good for multiple repetitions.

Tom B and HM will be smiling at my use of machinery, I know, but I get by with what I have and what I have set up at the time, if possible.

Trouble is for just a couple, and developing the best method, things were a bit haphazard. Usual situation.

I fitted the original frame seat inserts btw. Just screwed them in place with very long screws.

I am sure I aimed for 8mm beespace, knowing it is easier to reduce it, afterwards, than increase it!

Hope this helps you understand how I set about my prototype. The next fifty will be easier! A bit like the Dartington - first one, cutting from scratch, I was very careful, for the second it took about half the time. Regards, RAB

 

[drstitson]

beeboybee - there is basically no top bee space in the MB hives - so the conversion actually improves the situation!!!