Planting a hedge to reduce the effect of the wind

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Peter Marsh

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The hives in my home apiary are exposed to the prevailing wind. What are the suggestions of members for me to plant a 30m hedge to reduce the wind effect on the hives? What type of tree or shrub is best, what distance between each plant, and how far from the hives should the hedge be planted? The soil is chalk.
 
Escallonia,Forsythia,Osmanthus,Mock Orange,Prunus (Cherry) all like chalk.
Escallonia particularly grows well in exposed and windy conditions
 
This spring, I was deeply impressed to visit an apiary surrounded by perforated windbreak mesh fencing. My guess would be that it was about 7ft high. The area surrounded was about 40ft x 25ft.
It was simply uncanny to go from a bitter wind into total calm. The stuff works. And much more effectively than any hedge I've sheltered behind.
Not pretty though.
And bad bees do follow outside the enclosure.
For a windbreak though, it is fantastic and 'instant'.
Then plant round it (with whatever you fancy) to conceal the mesh and to cover your exit from the bees.
 
The hives in my home apiary are exposed to the prevailing wind. What are the suggestions of members for me to plant a 30m hedge to reduce the wind effect on the hives? What type of tree or shrub is best, what distance between each plant, and how far from the hives should the hedge be planted? The soil is chalk.

Hi Peter,
As above, escallonia is a lovely hedge, and bees love it.
But in the meantime, I would put up windbreak fabric. It will help shelter the hives, but also shelter the hedge until it is established.
You can buy a roll of it from a garden centre, erect posts, and staple it to them.
Wind can burn the leaves of young plants, so worth helping it to establish.
Escallonia , macrantha is a nice one and evergreen with flowers in June. If trimmed immediately after flowering will encourage a second flush.
Regards
Sharon
 
Presume you mean 30m long, not high...
:eek:
 
If you visit the Scillies, one of the.most obvious features is that anywhere cultivated has hedges. That's usually escallonia and arranged in strips across the prevailing wind direction in many places. Outside the most exposed sites a mix of traditional hedging is quite effective. Blackthorn, hawthorn, dog rose, holly all give some security as well as being some attraction to insect life.
 
Hi all,
I was toying with the idea of 'building' a wall of Ivy when I move provided it would fit into the landscape. A bit urban perhaps?
 
Hi all,
I was toying with the idea of 'building' a wall of Ivy when I move provided it would fit into the landscape. A bit urban perhaps?

Thats a really good idea.. The ivy round here is rampant and is splitting the existing fences apart. Rather than fight it we could use it. But what fence/wall material can withstand the ivy at reasonable cost... If you have ideas please tell.
 
My hives are behind a box hedge approx 1 meter tall and 1 meter wide which protects from the NE winds.

Needs pruning twice a year, the badgers and foxes find their own way through it..
 
Thats a really good idea.. The ivy round here is rampant and is splitting the existing fences apart. Rather than fight it we could use it. But what fence/wall material can withstand the ivy at reasonable cost... If you have ideas please tell.

Hi derekm,
As I said only toying with the idea, but thought metal poles into concrete and wire between them. Should work, shouldn't it?
 
Bought 6 ft bamboo screening made frame for each section and screwed to fencing posts.
Good wind break, cheap, and wind partly blows through, so maintains stability in high winds, but provides good shelter planted hedge to grow in front.
 
Hi all,
I was toying with the idea of 'building' a wall of Ivy when I move provided it would fit into the landscape. A bit urban perhaps?

Thats a really good idea.. The ivy round here is rampant and is splitting the existing fences apart. Rather than fight it we could use it. But what fence/wall material can withstand the ivy at reasonable cost... If you have ideas please tell.

They've done that with heavy duty wire netting and posts to make an anti-glare fence on the approach to the junction of the A3060/A338 (Castle Lane East and Wessex Way) to the NE of Bournemouth/WNW of Christchurch. You can see it if you look on Google streetview. There's a picture on Geograph http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1865636

But if you want a hedge then a deciduous hedge is probably better than an evergreen one. Use native species and it will provide food for local wildlife too.
 
I was toying with the idea of 'building' a wall of Ivy when I move provided it would fit into the landscape. A bit urban perhaps?
Good for birds and bees and a lot else. But if you get it flowering, which is the idea, it does get a bit top heavy.

I had a fence on braced 4" posts, 6 foot panels plus trellis on top. I encouraged ivy up it and in 10 years it was flowering well. Last winter the wind snapped the posts in half. Make it strong if you do try it.
 
Hi Peter,

I planted a hedge earlier this year for just this reason - opted for the native Hornbeam (Carpinus Betulus) in the end. It can tolerate a range of conditions and grows quite quickly, will form a good solid hedge if pruned properly.

If you want top add a bit of security then Blackthorn (Prunus Spinosa) and Hawthorn (Crataugus Monogyna) also make excellent hedges. Nothing to stop you doing a mixed hedge for aesthetics sake, add Field Maple, Holly etc (although this suckers and can be a pain).

You should be able to buy bare-root stock fairly soon (and plant them during winter) and this is the cheapest way to do it although if you can find container grown plants cheaply then this gives the hedge a bit of a head start. I have planted them at 12 inch spacing but they could be further apart.

Yeah, some kind of temporary fencing could be a good idea (but nothing too solid) until the hedge is established, also need to be protected from rabbits, deer, etc . My hive is only about a meter from the hedge, giving the most shelter and forcing them up on their flight path.

Cheers
 
Hi Peter,

...., Holly etc (although this suckers and can be a pain).

...

Holly is always a pain

particularly after the leaves have dried on bare feet.
Though its usaually a pain in the backside as you invariably back into it.

We have a lot of holly in our garden... it grows every where. Personally I blame the robins.
 
Hi Peter,
You should be able to buy bare-root stock fairly soon (and plant them during winter) and this is the cheapest way to do it although if you can find container grown plants cheaply then this gives the hedge a bit of a head start. I have planted them at 12 inch spacing but they could be further apart.

Bare root is the way to go, we have weekly auctions in Wisbech locally and I got all mine from there. As an example bundles of 50 / 100 / 200 of Blackthorn go for as little as 15p per plant @ 18'' tall.
They have all hedging most weeks. I am always amazed at the low prices plants sell for and would never buy at a garden centre again........they all come here for there stock. Only problem is you are normally buying bulk so you need a few friends to share when it comes to other stuff except specimen plants.
Apple / Pear / Cherry / Walnut etc normally sell in 2-5 per lot at £2-5 each at 3-4ft
http://www.maxeyandson.co.uk/content.php?page=auctions

I also planted 2 Willow 'Fedges', single whips just pushed in the ground at 50 degree angles and interwoven. Cut off at 6ft. Well cheap as 'pick your own'
with permission of course
 

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