Painting inside of poly hives?

[Finman]

.
I have met a guy who handled inside surfaces old poly with tar . Explanation was that wooden boxes are used often with tar. - that is unnecessary too.

Wooden boxes are good because I may clean them with propane storch. That is whyI use self made wooden bottoms and covers.

Polyboxes need chemicals. Hot lyewater is the best. the most often I must clean poo after winter.
Some sevage tube cleaners are good in small scale cleaning. Bath room cleaner Cillit Bang fro Lidl is one of the best.

 

[Black Comb]

Your decision as to who you listen to.

Funny that. Def shouldn't be listening to you, then! 'Cos wrong again, of course. I have timber and poly hives - oh, and a beehaus. I have run WBCs, National deeps and now have all extra deep frames in all brood boxes whether poly or timber, whether Dartington or National.

Timber and poly nucs. And I was careful where I sourced my original polynucs - from one supplier I considered, they would likely have needed that 'extra paint protection' and it may well have still been chewed away. Played very safe and went to MB.

So you paint your's on the inside, I presume?

I thought your reply to a newcomer was harsh and unwelcoming. I also said "as far as I know" so am happy to be corrected.
I have wooden hives but MB polynucs and followed MB instructions at the time i.e. I painted the outside and the inner of the roof and floor only with masonry paint. They have worked fine so far. I doubt whether painting the inside of the roof and floor is necessary but bow to those with greater experience.

Have you painted the outside of the beehaus?

 

[Finman]

.
As far as I know, Oliver does not have practical experience about polyhive. He plays only with mere with "common sense".

.my opinion is that 90% advices given in this forum are vain or harmfull.
Painting hives wrong way is not a wonder.

Often timing of operation goes wrong. Spring operations have been offered in Autumn quite often.

 

[Finman]

I thought your reply to a newcomer was harsh and unwelcoming.
aus?

generally in forums that needs good nerves and healthy ego.

 

[itma]

.
... {sanitising} Polyboxes need chemicals. Hot lyewater is the best. the most often I must clean poo after winter.
Some sevage tube cleaners are good in small scale cleaning. Bath room cleaner Cillit Bang fro Lidl is one of the best.

Any translations for that one?
Maybe 'sewage pipe' thus 'drain clearing' products are being suggested?

Lidl's own-brand bathroom cleaner is as at least as savage as Cillit Bang for Grime and Lime! (though I had understood from the warning labels that these were acidic rather than alkaline products).

 

[oliver90owner]

I thought your reply to a newcomer was harsh and unwelcoming. I also said "as far as I know" so am happy to be corrected.

16 posts, 6 on 'my wish list' then states that 'some vendors suggest' with no corroborating evidence whatsoever.

I simply stated facts in post #9. Which bits do you disagree with? Nothing, I suspect.

The link in post #10 does not hold any cedence as far as evidence is concerned.

One recent post by the OP says, quote:"As an aspiring beekeeper, who's read loads and loads of books and spent ages online both reading and watching videos - but who had never actually seen a hive until recently - I've spent a long, long, time trying to work out how best to turn theoretical knowledge into practical application." unquote.

That might suggest the poster does not really know the facts of the matter. So far, backed up by the total absence of any evidence to substantiate the claim, either from the OP, you, or anyone else.

So your response was 'because you thought'. Perhaps better to have said that than try to discredit my ability/knowledge/etc, as you were so obviously attempting to do - and clearly of which you neither checked out for accuracy, nor even got anywhere near the ball park. So about on par with the opening statement on the thread, I would think, only worse because you are not a new poster. I consider you now to be happy (as in the last six words of the quote above).

Thread closed as far as I am concerned.

RAB

 

[BeeJayBee]

I'm quite surprised that what I thought was a fairly straightforward question has led to this much discussion.

I can't reply or respond to everybody, it would take too long and take up too much space.

... maybe the problem is that as a new beekeeper's we are trying to learn to fast. We then read and gather load's of info which gets jumbled together. Which bring's us round to some confusion. It is possible that we read about painting poly hive's and miss the part where it say's paint the feeder inside . Then believe that means all the hive should be painted inside. As new beekeepers we should ask so as to try and minimise our mistakes i see no harm in asking if it is going to help the bees and the beekeeper. Most on here are helpful some on here are helpful even when a little short; take advise ignore the rest.

That's the trouble really, there's a lot to take in, and when you're learning on your own it's easy to miss, or misunderstand, something fairly basic, without realising what you've done.

I've read a lot, both books and online, but haven't yet been able to support my reading by anything practical, or even ask local experts because of the way things are run. I would like to take advantage of Christmas too, and start getting things together for the spring. That's why I joined this forum - to ask questions and get some help, but it's a bit of a baptism of fire though.

I've decided to get Polystyrene hives, but can't afford to make mistakes. I hadn't thought that painting polystyrene to make it last a bit longer was any different to treating woodwork to prevent it rotting.

But remember the old saying, 2 beekeeprs will give advise and you will get 3 answer's. Regard's Andy.

A bit like most things relating to plants and animals, personal experience leads to everybody doing things slightly differently, and, as long as the creatures are happy and healthy, nobody's wrong.

... I was careful where I sourced my original polynucs - from one supplier I considered, they would likely have needed that 'extra paint protection' and it may well have still been chewed away.

I've decided against Omlet, even though they seem to have quite a following, I'm not sure the Dartington-type hive is the one I want. And I don't plan to buy a nucleus just yet. But, as I don't want to spend money on something that won't last, could you tell me who to avoid please? Or has this supplier changed their product since you tried them?

- maybe here perhaps and do not look at the Colonel Mustard mugshot... http://tinyurl.com/cgquchf

I've read that, thanks. I'll keep the link because it's got useful information about cleaning the hives.

There is no need that I am aware of to paint the inside of poly units apart from feeders to avoid mould.

I'm almost scared to ask the question, but is the feeder thought of as being inside the hive, or is it outside? Would you also paint the top, bottom and sides of the floor? Or do you prefer to use wooden floors?

Poly hives are a bit easier to clean in my experience if you paint the inside but the big problem is where the boxes touch - if you have painted all surfaces they have a great tendancy to stick together, even if you leave the paint to dry fully.

That's worth knowing, thanks.

Amazing picture too, thanks, it's reassuring to see that a bee farmer is happy using polystyrene.

 

[Poly Hive]

I paint all my floor yes apart from the "U" where the brood box sits. Do not paint mating surfaces with poly boxes. Or to put it another way for clarity do not paint the parts which are in contact with another piece of poly.

I do not paint inside my broods or supers as if you are going to do that there are some issues to consider.

1. Food grade paint?

2. Will it just scrape off when you remove some brace comb?

3. will it stand up to washing soda.

Answer to all three is probably no, and as posted on the thread several times already I do not do it.

Feeders are not an integral part of the hive. They are on as a temp measure. They should be painted on the inside, as well as all the outside to protect the poly from syrup seeping into it and causing mould.

All pretty simple stuff and like the OP I am a bit surprised at the thread length.

PH

 

[oliver90owner]

could you tell me who to avoid please?

PM will arrive presently

 

[Finman]

1. Food grade paint?

PH

I asked from paint company about food grade. They said that there is no food grade paint.

 

[OXFORDBEE]

Try here..

 

[Finman]

Lidl's own-brand bathroom cleaner is as at least as savage as Cillit Bang for Grime and Lime! (though I had understood from the warning labels that these were acidic rather than alkaline products).

i have here on table professionl level pH-meter and cillit bang. I measured the pH and it was 10.2

essential word is fat remover. It destroys fat lipids or orgaisms. At least it removes quickly the poo.

 

[Poly Hive]

Food grade paint.

Used to be.

so now superseded.

PH

 

[Finman]

.
There are special stuffs which are sold only to industry with special lisence.
Nowadys there is a differencewhat is sold generally and what is sold only to professionals.
One point is two component stuffs which are not paints. For ecample they are used in boat coating.

Which are poisonous and which are food grade? How many old farts understand the chemicals.

Like in under developed countries, we go to teach how to make and extractor from barrel and from bicycle. Barrel has been painted as we see but with what? With that system we are going to prison in home country but what about advices? Then we say: "their honey is not clean".

 

[itma]

i have here on table professionl level pH-meter and cillit bang. I measured the pH and it was 10.2

essential word is fat remover. It destroys fat lipids or orgaisms. At least it removes quickly the poo.

Aaah!

That would be the Degreaser version of Cillit Bang.
There's also Grime&Lime and 'with Bleach' ... maybe others.
The degreaser isn't exceptional as a degreaser, but it does smell of Ammonia!

 

[Dusty Rhodes]

It destroys fat lipids or orgaisms.

Finman, tell me you meant "organisms" and not "orgasms".

The alternative is too mind-blowing to contemplate.

No wonder the Cillit Bang bloke is such a prat.
Perhaps it should be called "Cillit Wimper".

 

[Monsieur Abeille]

At the risk of exposing further my total ignorance, are things like Cillit Bang OK to use on hive interiors? Do they not leave residues of nasty stuff?

OR am I missing a subtle Finnish joke here?

 

[Poly Hive]

On the basis of keep it simple all that is needed is Washing Soda.

99p fro a well known bigT super stores. As in Tes**

PH

 

[itma]

At the risk of exposing further my total ignorance, are things like Cillit Bang OK to use on hive interiors? Do they not leave residues of nasty stuff?

OR am I missing a subtle Finnish joke here?

Don't know to the three specific questions.

Just feel it important to stress that there are at least three different Cillit Orgasm products.
The answers could easily be different for all three.

Finman was specifically referring to the 'degreaser' variety.
While an ammonia-based alkaline cleaner would be less human-risk than scrubbing with caustic drain-unblocker, I have no idea what the risks to the bees might be from residual ammonia, or what a suitable 'weathering time' might be to air-off whatever residues remain.

 

[Finman]

Finman, tell me you meant "organisms" and not "orgasms".

The alternative is too mind-blowing to contemplate.

No wonder the Cillit Bang bloke is such a prat.
Perhaps it should be called "Cillit Wimper".

i write with my cell phone and i have not opportunity to check right words.

Try to stand.

I stand ( almost) your carbage knowledge even if it has bee written correctly.