Opening and closing MB poly hive

[SteveHLD]

Firstly I have a problem with "cracking" the boxes without aggravating the bees. I push my hive tool in at one end of the plastic runners and that side loosens a bit. Then I move to the other side (same end of hive) and push my tool in. This usually works fine, but if the boxes are firmly stuck together they separate all of a sudden. My hive tool hits the inner runner with a thud and the bees go ape. How can I prevent this? (I already try and remember to smear the top and bottom of the boxes with vaseline)

Secondly I want to reduce the number of bees that I squash when I close up. I gently slide the top box across until it is about to drop into position. I work on my own and smoke as best as I can but as soon as I put the smoker down the bees are crawling over the wall again (in an MB hive the walls are 4cm thick). My only success has been to belch smoke at them using shredded paper in my smoker. But paper does not last very long, and I usually do not have any dried grass. Can anyone give me any tips?

 

[Little John]

Firstly, I have to say that I don't know anything about poly hives - I've never even seen one close-up, let alone use one.

But - it the design allows you to, it might be worth laying a sheet of polythene, plastic feed sack or similar over the topbars, and extending out from beneath the roof.

I've noticed that many people are starting to use this idea on conventional hives (instead of a crown board) - the top comes off without any abrupt sensation being transmitted, and the plastic can then be rolled back gently, with minimum 'shock' to the bees.

Might be worth trying if the design allows this ...

LJ

Forgot to add - historically, beekeepers used to use rolled-up cardboard (the 'corrugated sandwich' type) in their smokers. Personally, I use wood shavings to start the smoker, and then top-up with coarse sawdust - lasts for a good couple of hours.
Others use pine needles, old sacking - there are lots of materials to choose from ...

 

[YorkshireBees]

Although smoke may work as a temporary solution to drive bees down into a box I also find it sometimes agitates them more.
I also work alone and have the same problem that by the time you have put down the smoker and picked up the box to go on top the bees can be up and onto the walls.

I only tend to coat the top surface of a box with petroleum jelly as I was told coating both surfaces sometimes helps to glue them together. (Also I only apply it 1-2 times a season not after every inspection).

What seems to work for me is that when I place a box on top (not including the box directly over their plastic queen excluders!) I place it gently at a 45 degree angle and then lifting most of the weight gently turn it till it is in position and lower it down. It doesn't stop the odd bee getting trapped and squashed but it certainly cut down on the numbers.
Obviously for the 1st box above the QE (when using the supplied plastic one) it's not possible to do this.

It is one of the design faults (imo) of those hives.

 

[fatshark]

You've identified two of the several problem with these hives. A poly sheet is a good idea and certainly helps remove the roof, but removing and replacing supers was always a problem … I abandoned them and now only use them as bait hives. You could try a gentle misting with water spray (I assume we're talking about the beekeeping season now, not this time of year when it's unlikely you'll need to open boxes anyway) as this makes the bees stand still. A couple of well aimed squirts and gently rotate the super into place.

I use a thick polythene 'crownboard' on my MB/Paradise 6 frame nucs, overlapping it by a few centimetres all round, and it works very well. Interestingly, the design of the crownboard (a sheet of clear Bayer-manufactured lexan[?]) on the Thorne's Everynuc never allows the lid to be stuck down with propolis.

 

[theeggman]

to the forum SteveHLD.

I can't help with your problem sorry, I run Payne's with no lip.

 

[Erichalfbee]

I have these. I have taken the lips off. Much better: now I can slide them apart just like the Paynes and Swienty.

 

[La Folie]

I have the MB hives and love them. No problems opening the hives and I do it in the same way you do ie cracking the hive bodies at the plastic runners making sure I wiggle the hive tool to ensure good separation. I put the super on at an angle initially after a bit of smoke. Inevitably I lose a few of the girls but nice and gentle reduces mortality.
Taking the lip off would surely mean the stability of the hive system is compromised in which case a more conventional system such as Abelo would be a better buy? I like MB and intend sticking with them: beautifully warm in winter!

 

[itma]

Welcome to the forum.

The "lip" detail - specific and unique (among national polys) to the Modern Beekeeping - is a bit controversial. I can't advise on dealing with it, but I'm surprised that Vaseline isn't helping. Though it needs to go onto prop-free (clean) surfaces to be most helpful.


Regarding closing up, I find (plain tap) water misting very helpful indeed.
A bit of misting, then wait (beekeeping/patience, remember!) for a full minute or two while the bees move down, then close up.
For next season, its worth about 75p for a Wilkinson's tomato mister to give misting a try. They'll have them in by Spring, and you shouldn't need one before then.
You'll discover just how little water you need (don't drown them!)

 

[Apple]

My sister has used the MB Pollystyrene hives, as she lives not too far from ? Barnstable, up in the cold north!
I believe she always had a problem with the roof fitting and bees propolising everything that they did not stick up with cross bracing, I can rember that she tried polythene sheet that I had spare from my pollytunnel.
She now has Beehivesupplies pollys and those are supplied with a Correx? top cover, and the beespace seems to have been thought out.


I will stick to my WRC WBC's with a wooly quilt!

James

 

[itma]

My sister has used the MB Pollystyrene hives, as she lives not too far from ? Barnstable, up in the cold north!
I believe she always had a problem with the roof fitting and bees propolising everything that they did not stick up with cross bracing, I can rember that she tried polythene sheet that I had spare from my pollytunnel.
She now has Beehivesupplies pollys and those are supplied with a Correx? top cover, and the beespace seems to have been thought out.

The ModernBeek/ParadiseHoney hives ARE supplied with a "plastic inner cover" (but its not a 'crownboard' …)
Whereas it is the CWJ/Swienty polys that are surprisingly supplied without any inner cover. Apparently, that's what Bee Farmers (or maybe just ITLD) want.

Paynes initial offering of their poly national nuc had no inner cover.
They soon added it to the package.
By the time the full-sized hives appeared, they had an inner cover too.

 

[Apple]

Sounds like some kind of cover up to me!


( Failing attempted humour!)


Wassail!


James

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I run Payne's with no lip.

try saying 'P' with no liffffffff

 

[theeggman]

 

[SteveHLD]

My oh my, thank you for all your advice, I had not anticipated your speedy reply but I guess this is the nature of forums. You have given me plenty of ideas for next year.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Taking the lip off would surely mean the stability of the hive system is compromised

Not really, the boxes are strapped to the hive stands all year.
Personally I don't like them and the two colonies in them will get a new home in the spring. I got them for the top bee space but there are alternatives now.

 

[johnandyrob]

Firstly I have a problem with "cracking" the boxes without aggravating the bees. I push my hive tool in at one end of the plastic runners and that side loosens a bit. Then I move to the other side (same end of hive) and push my tool in. This usually works fine, but if the boxes are firmly stuck together they separate all of a sudden. My hive tool hits the inner runner with a thud and the bees go ape. How can I prevent this? (I already try and remember to smear the top and bottom of the boxes with vaseline)

Secondly I want to reduce the number of bees that I squash when I close up. I gently slide the top box across until it is about to drop into position. I work on my own and smoke as best as I can but as soon as I put the smoker down the bees are crawling over the wall again (in an MB hive the walls are 4cm thick). My only success has been to belch smoke at them using shredded paper in my smoker. But paper does not last very long, and I usually do not have any dried grass. Can anyone give me any tips?

Are you using National or Langstroth?

 

[tidymeup]

All seems like allot of faff, just crack the boxes open and puff a little smoke in if they need it.

With regards to crushing bees make sure you send them down into the box your working on with a little smoke and brush the remaining few off before replacing supers etc.

I like the lip on the hives, it means less chance of water ingress and decreases te likely good of slippage. All handy things when moving hives around.

 

[BeeJayBee]

No real problems with squashing bees, but it does take a fraction longer to replace boxes.

I have these. I have taken the lips off. Much better: now I can slide them apart just like the Paynes and Swienty.

Taking the lip off would surely mean the stability of the hive system is compromised in which case a more conventional system such as Abelo would be a better buy? I like MB and intend sticking with them: beautifully warm in winter!

Not really, the boxes are strapped to the hive stands all year.
Personally I don't like them and the two colonies in them will get a new home in the spring. I got them for the top bee space but there are alternatives now.

Did you take the lips off both upper and lower box separately, or did you glue them together and cut through where the boxes meet?

Any chance of a photo?

 

[Erichalfbee]

I've just taken the bottom ones off, not ideal but I'm getting rid of the MB boxes entirely

But you've given me a reason to try taking both off and seeing what happens.

 

[BeeJayBee]

I'll let you try it first, and see how you get on.

Are these Nationals?