Oh no another can of worms

[learner]

Thanks yes a national from ply looks cheap enough, I have downloaded lots of plans and drawings to study.

 

[Brosville]

I'll put in a plea for TBHs as being delightfully low-tech - you don't NEED frames - you don't NEED foundation - you don't NEED extractors (bucket, stick, sieve and sunny windowsill works fine......(or go with comb honey).
If you don't like to, or can't lift, a top bar hive is ideal (can be used by the disabled easily too).
As everyone's said, go with your heart when choosing the type of hive that suits YOU, but don't run away with the idea that TBHs aren't a very viable way of doing things

 

[learner]

Brosville how about swarm control? If the hive is long enough is that the same as adding height? from what I've read and I say again it is only read no experience bees swarm if they dont have room or if the queen is a problem so
what have you experienced with this issue?

 

[ian]

Hi Learner

Thornes seconds are another economical way to start, for about £100 pounds you can have a complete hive including frames.

And as a bonus they also make great templates for your own boxes you can make at your leisure.


Regards Ian

 

[ian]

Hi

Similar thread, check it out.

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=3560&highlight=rugby+ball


Regards Ian

 

[learner]

Thank you to everyone who has posted i have alot to consider and will look seriously before my final choice I will refrain from saying which way my tendencies lean for now, if anyone wishes to keep posting I will be back tommorow to look but please keep it based around non contentious thoughts, I would feel bad if an argument or disagreement became the forefront of this post it seems there are not many beekeepers out there lets support each others work. Again many thanks for the posts.
Regards Patrick.(learner)

 

[Brosville]

There's screeds written on the subject of "swarm management" by people far more experienced than me in top-bar hive beekeeping.(the link from Ian is useful, and "Norm" is very adept in the use of top bar hives, and was the author of the "build a hive for a dollar" article)
I look upon a top bar hive as a horizontal hollow log - I started with 8 top bars, and ended up with 30-odd by the end of the season - all you have to do is move the "followers" to expand or contract the interior size
Here's a pic showing top bars and a follower-

 

[Mike a]

how about swarm control? If the hive is long enough is that the same as adding height? from what I've read and I say again it is only read no experience bees swarm if they dont have room or if the queen is a problem so what have you experienced with this issue?

First things first, if you are new to bee keeping then I would advise you start with a framed hive and learn as much as you can about bee management and join a local association. Understanding what the bees are likely to do at various times of the year is vital and unless your very lucky most associations only cater for the traditional types of hives. Then consider if you want to get the maximum honey crop from your local area. If so stick with the framed hives like Lang or National.

TB's have been used for thousands of years and they are only one step away from a feral hive, whereas the framed hives were only invented to maximise and simplify honey collection. But to answer your question IMHO swarm control is far quicker and easier to manage in a TBH.

Let me explain.

All the other popular hives with frames - proper swarm management requires another complete set of hive equipment to solve the problem (I'm not talking about knocking out every queen cell in the hope they wont swarm because they will if just one queen cell is missed during an inspection) so if you dont have a spare hive sooner or later you will say good bye to half of your colony.

Now TBH's (In a slightly simplified version) All you will need is 1 more follower board and a few top bars.
If you build the 4ft version which has more than enough space to cope with two good sized colonies and by using a divider board or follower board (Same thing) divide the TB into two bee tight chambers, then the process to deal with the colonies desire to swarm is as simple as moving a few bars with sealed brood and stores to the other end of the hive, add a couple of new bars and open up a new entrance and place the new follower board up behind the last bar and you have managed their desire to swarm in the same way as an artificial swarm. So there is no need to have that second hive sat around doing nothing in your shed.

Like Brosville said they are very easy to make http://www.lulu.com/content/content_download_redirect.php?metaId=3950238 they only cost a fraction of what you pay for a new hive and they only take a couple of hours to build even with the basic tools found in most peoples garages and you can get as much advice on how to manage them as you want by join the forums at http://www.biobees.com/forum

 

[Hombre]

Nice picture Brosville. The stance of the white legs, belly and the top bars remind me of a dressage horse. Equally elegant.

 

[Poly Hive]

I am not commenting on any of the above bar to say if money is important to you and you can build from scratch then Langstroth is the way to go.

Again if money is important then you will wnat to extract otherwise there is no return on your investment unless you are intending producing bees.

Lastly Poly, the real proper poly I refer to not the cheap rubbish is extremely strong. At night classes I ran I used to jump on it to prove the point.

PH