Normandy bees

[haisebees]

Hello, I live in Normandy, although I am English, and have been keeping bees for 7 years so still an awful lot to learn. However it has gone really well with no colony losses until last winter when I lost all three that went into winter. I reckon likely they were very stressed by the drought and also by asian hornets which were horrendous in the autumn. In addition I was preoccupied by other things and I dont think they were adequately prepared for winter. This year I began with no bees, Bought a nuc which promptly swarmed . Caught them and also two other swarms which were quite difficult so were requeened. I also got a nuc from a local breeder just a few weeks ago. In late August I realised that two of the colonies were quite small so were successfully united retaining the most docile seeming queen who is also the most prolific. This gives me 3 hives. Inspections 2 weeks ago revealed a lot of bees and brood and very little in the way of stores. There was no flow to speak of. So, I began to feed with 2 to 1 syrup. I can hardly keep up with the rate at which they are taking it. My questions are ..... Does this make sense to you? and do I keep on with the feeding....when do I stop? Each hive has had at least 10 kg so far and they are spending a lot of time bearding on the fronts of the hives (weather has been very warm ). The ivy has not yet begun here but is close.
Just for your information the hornet situation is not good but I am having more success with my defences this year and have trapped hundreds which would otherwise have been predating. I have also surrounded each hive with a sort of tent of chicken wire which does not bother the bees when they get used to it but it makes access trickier for the hornets...slows them down. Next year I might try to refine this.

 

[ericbeaumont]

I can hardly keep up with the rate at which they are taking it

Have you looked at the nest recently and seen BIAS? A balance must be made between feeding for winter and allowing space now for the queen to produce winter bees.

Heft the hive: one hand at the back under the floor, lift half an inch. Easy, or does it feel nailed down? What hive are you using?

PS: would you switch off the bold type? It's making my eyes swell.

 

[haisebees]

Sorry about the type, did not mean to shout. I have 10 frame dadant hives as they are the most common here so supplies are easy to source. Hives are heavy but I have not looked in the brood boxes for two weeks as there are quite a few hornets around, I will look tomorrow weather permitting. Thank you so much for your prompt response.

 

[ericbeaumont]

Hives are heavy

Is ivy in flower? Check that the box is not full of stores with nowhere to lay. What happens if you open up when hornets are hawking? Easy pickings?

 

[Skinfaxi]

Hello, I live in Normandy, although I am English, and have been keeping bees for 7 years so still an awful lot to learn. However it has gone really well with no colony losses until last winter when I lost all three that went into winter. I reckon likely they were very stressed by the drought and also by asian hornets which were horrendous in the autumn. In addition I was preoccupied by other things and I dont think they were adequately prepared for winter. This year I began with no bees, Bought a nuc which promptly swarmed . Caught them and also two other swarms which were quite difficult so were requeened. I also got a nuc from a local breeder just a few weeks ago. In late August I realised that two of the colonies were quite small so were successfully united retaining the most docile seeming queen who is also the most prolific. This gives me 3 hives. Inspections 2 weeks ago revealed a lot of bees and brood and very little in the way of stores. There was no flow to speak of. So, I began to feed with 2 to 1 syrup. I can hardly keep up with the rate at which they are taking it. My questions are ..... Does this make sense to you? and do I keep on with the feeding....when do I stop? Each hive has had at least 10 kg so far and they are spending a lot of time bearding on the fronts of the hives (weather has been very warm ). The ivy has not yet begun here but is close.
Just for your information the hornet situation is not good but I am having more success with my defences this year and have trapped hundreds which would otherwise have been predating. I have also surrounded each hive with a sort of tent of chicken wire which does not bother the bees when they get used to it but it makes access trickier for the hornets...slows them down. Next year I might try to

Oh no the #$%@ hornets again.

 

[Erichalfbee]

PS: would you switch off the bold type? It's making my eyes swell.

Done it for you

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

when did you treat them for varroa, and with what?

 

[haisebees]

Is ivy in flower? Check that the box is not full of stores with nowhere to lay. What happens if you open up when hornets are hawking? Easy pickings?

The ivy is not quite out yet and the hornets can try to get into the top of the brood box if I open it. I have to be very watchful and use a cover, last year when a hornet landed on a brood box the bees quickly engulfed it. An open brood box attracts the hornets and means that I am more exposed to them whilst inspecting. Whilst their main interest remains in the bees I don't enjoy the closer encounters. At least 4 people in my area have died following stings from asian hornets this year and a local farmer whom I know was hospitalised so I am keen to minimise risk.

 

[ericbeaumont]

get into the top of the brood box

Thanks for the Vv info. Did you manage to check whether there was laying space? If the ivy flow is heavy she could run out. May not be a concern in a big ol' 10f Dadant, but your eyes are the best judge.

PS: varroa treatment?

 

[hemo]

Although it is a pfaff one couldb buy an observation hive enclosure /tent to perform inspection or a hive opening up to keep out V.v.

 

[haisebees]

Thanks for the Vv info. Did you manage to check whether there was laying space? If the ivy flow is heavy she could run out. May not be a concern in a big ol' 10f Dadant, but your eyes are the best judge.

PS: varroa treatment?

Thanks for the Vv info. Did you manage to check whether there was laying space? If the ivy flow is heavy she could run out. May not be a concern in a big ol' 10f Dadant, but your eyes are the best judge.

PS: varroa treatment?

The hives are very heavy and I have just finished what was a most unpleasant inspection. Of the 10 frames average 3 each side are completely stores That leaves say 4 in the middle with stores on top and brood in the middle but only capped brood... saw no larvae or eggs . Saw queens in 2 out of three hives but there were so many bees it was difficult to see. To my amateur eye there seemed to be some polished cells ready around the brood. I am concerned that I did not see eggs or larvae and think I have overfed. I have not treated this year but have done a drop count and seemed no vary problem. Also under some pressure not to treat as the next beekeeper along, a french professional is organic and very successful....I bought bees from him and also have had good queens from him. I am ready to be convinced either way and did treat during my first to 3rd years....used oxalic, strips and apivar strips.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

have done a drop count and seemed no vary problem

How? counting mites on an inspection board is a waste of time, all it does is tell you that the bees have varroa (it would be a surprise if they didn't!)

. Also under some pressure not to treat as the next beekeeper along, a french professional is organic and very successful....I bought bees from him and also have had good queens from him

I suppose it's a way for him to get return sales when your bees die of varroosis

 

[hemo]

Carry out a sugar roll or two on a sample of 300 bees (a T cup full) and a T spoon of icing sugar, roll the bees gently for 3 mins then let them fly away. Dissolve the remaining sugar in a little water to count mites, one is looking for 1 -2% max mite drop so 3 -6 mites max. Or carry out an accelerated mite drop count over 24 hrs with a one off OAV using a sticky board.

 

[hemo]

The difference with the organic farmer is he has plenty of colonies to produce and replace varroa die outs , you don't . One has to do what is best for oneself and not to be at the whim of others.

OAV is as near to being organic as one can get. if they have varroa > 2% loading then they will need help.

 

[haisebees]

The difference with the organic farmer is he has plenty of colonies to produce and replace varroa die outs , you don't . One has to do what is best for oneself and not to be at the whim of others.

OAV is as near to being organic as one can get. if they have varroa > 2% loading then they will need help.

The sugar roll is what I did and got one in one hive and two in another ....this was in early sept......should I repeat?

 

[haisebees]

The hives are very heavy and I have just finished what was a most unpleasant inspection. Of the 10 frames average 3 each side are completely stores That leaves say 4 in the middle with stores on top and brood in the middle but only capped brood... saw no larvae or eggs . Saw queens in 2 out of three hives but there were so many bees it was difficult to see. To my amateur eye there seemed to be some polished cells ready around the brood. I am concerned that I did not see eggs or larvae and think I have overfed. I have not treated this year but have done a drop count and seemed no vary problem. Also under some pressure not to treat as the next beekeeper along, a french professional is organic and very successful....I bought bees from him and also have had good queens from him. I am ready to be convinced either way and did treat during my first to 3rd years....used oxalic, strips and apivar strips.

I have since been back to 2 of the hives and removed two frames of stores from the outside edges and inserted two frames of drawn comb either side of the brood nest. I had to leave one hive alone as it has become too windy

 

[hemo]

The sugar roll is what I did and got one in one hive and two in another ....this was in early sept......should I repeat?

If you used approx. 300 bees/T cup full then 1 or 2 mites is ok , 3 is the max you want without thinking about treating. It doesn't hurt to test a again but with V.v about it may not be practical unless you carry out the work early before they get going or later when they cease .

When I have carried out a sugar roll , I have taken two samples from the same colony to see if I get a different count. If one gets a suspect /high count , then one can carry out another a week later to decide then what course of action to take.

Last year I had to treat one colony mid June as I noted phoretic mites which started to ring alarm bells.

 

[ericbeaumont]

concerned that I did not see eggs or larvae and think I have overfed

Not to worry, the empty comb on the edge of the brood nest will work. The Q may have been off-lay recently, but ivy nectar & pollen will kick-start her.

 

[hemo]

I forgot to mention in #14 that 3% is borderline and requires monitoring further to decide if to treat or not.

Pargyle / Philip is the resident non treater here and uses sugar rolling as his guide.

 

[philat98]

I forgot to mention in #14 that 3% is borderline and requires monitoring further to decide if to treat or not.

Pargyle / Philip is the resident non treater here and uses sugar rolling as his guide.

How does a sugar roll compare to an alcohol wash?