My Hive + Nuc (Better Pictures)

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A fertilised egg ( worker ) will be half and half genes from mummy and daddy, an unfertilised egg will turn into a drone and will only have genes from mummy
 
Ok that makes sense could this be one of the many reasons for why the bees are more aggessive now she has been creating some off spring, but this still wouldnt make sense as i dont believe shes been laying long enough yet for bees from egg - larvae - new bee for them to of changed :p. Never mind ill just have to go in double layers to try and prevent me getting a sting :D

Hopefully the week im down me grandads helping him out with building his boat himself and his bee mates will give me some more advice and tutorials if we find time. :D
 
Thanks unfortunately the old man hasn't used the camera in a while so alot of the photos were out of focus so couldnt put on here, so better luck next time :D.
 
insy - you don't need plastic ends to get spacing right in the nuc - get a piece of card, mark the positions of the centres of correctly spaced frames on it and use that to space the frames. KISS.
 
true but i suppose if i order a couple hundred plastic spacers ill always have them laying about for future use if ever needed, atm im working hard on designs for 14x12 Brood chambers. I think im so far up to 8 14x12 plywood brood chambers for a total of about £65-£70 od wood :), i think its impossible to squeeze 9 brood chambers but im still trying hehe. Considering 14x12 brood chambers sell between £20-£40 if i can make 8 im still winning :D.
 
Colonies can also appear more stroppy as they get bigger. An angry nuc is not a big deal. A large colony getting angry is a sight to behold.
 
hehe yes something i may experience in the future :D i just like the huge difference in colour between both queens quite interesting.
 
You can use the wider spacers if you stagger them so that they touch the ajacent frame or,as a tempory measure only fit them to alternative frames - this gives standard narrow spacing.Then replace them as you obtain narrow spacers.
 
You can use the wider spacers if you stagger them so that they touch the ajacent frame or,as a tempory measure only fit them to alternative frames - this gives standard narrow spacing.Then replace them as you obtain narrow spacers.

:iagree:
This is the system used in my suppers wider spacers staggered then once drawn out fit to wider gap makes neater frames for extraction.
 
Wrong spacer shouldn't be a problem, just overlap them so that each spacer hits the wood top bar of the frame next to it .i.e. one on the end of the top bar and the next one 1 inch further down it, next one on end etc. That is how they should be used in a super. You overlap them like that on undrawn comb and then when it is drawn out you put all the spacers in a line to increase length of cells. If you put them on wise spacing to start with you will get brace comb galore!!!
E
 
thats how i have them anyway :D i wouldnt even be able to fit 5 in the nuc box if i didnt, ill continue to use these until the colony is big enough to transfer to the main hive then ill change the spacers when transferring over.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top