Is there a Dartingtonhive user?

[Mike a]

Despite my best efforts to contain the swarm that moved into my Dartington they much prefer to work horizontally than vertically and avoid the frames with foundation where possible and build natural comb right at the very back of the hive beyond the poor attempt of a divider I put in.

 

[oliver90owner]

There is always a better view of it, so in reply to wbchive, here are the opposing arguments:

Dartingtons use 14 x 12 brood frames
You can have a standard framed long deep hive variant if you so desire.

if you use a queen excluder
Seems pretty universal this year in any type of hive. Yes I allow her to lay upstairs, but generally she only goes there when laying space has been filled in the brood.

can also be awkward when harvesting honey
Three weeks after fitting a Q/E all the brood is gone.

The pitched roof is very heavy to lift on and off
Mine were made in two halves, so no real problem. I screwed mine together anyway, but they could easily be separated.

can't be used to rest boxes on like a flat roof
The entrance reducers (I've never made any to the design) can be inserted in the entrance tunnel and boxes can be stood on those (according to 'THE MAN').

not so good for producing honey.
And I thought it was the bees that made the honey!

Regards, RAB

 

[Queens59]

AArrgghh!! So confused - they all sound good, they all sound bad - I don't know what to do next!

 

[oliver90owner]

Queens59,

The Dartington is a good hive. It most certainly has it's down-sides. I would not want all my colonies in them. I certainly don't want any more at this present time (I have 2 Dartingtons and a beehaus).

There is little, other than a huge price difference, between a wooden Dartington and a plastic beehaus - I would go for the Dartington every time, but I made my own and was able to do that easily and accurately; others may not be able to follow that course.

Graham White (linked on the OMF threads going at the moment) said his Dartington out-performed his Nationals (14 x 12s, IIRC). I don't count jars of honey per hive as I consider it a waste of my time (irrelevant when one boosts one colony at the expense of another), but I do like the over-wintering plusses. Maybe it was because it performs better in the colder climate of central/north Scotland.

Swarm control is easy, but then, I find it easy enough on Nationals.

I think you need to examine one at close quarters and get a feel for the operation, if you can find one near to you. I don't like the half supers and most get used elsewhere for other duties, but for someone with a lifting difficulty, they may make life so much easier. Even so, there are ways around that problem....

Again, every hive has it's plusses and it's minuses. It comes down to a personal choice in the end - usually after trying it. I would persevere with the WBC if you can. They, too, are a good hive. Only when you understand all the gremlins in that design should you be considering change.

Everything is actually going to be heavier than an original WBC - if only by the extra frame in the box, although WBC boxes can be of lighter construction by virtue of not needing to be so weather-proof. WBCs will swarm sooner if the laying area is restrictive, so brood and a half is usually the minimum these days. 'Double brood is better' will be the response from most.

So never an easy choice. It has taken me ten years to go through WBCs and standard Nationals, to 14 x 12s, to OMFs, to top bee space, to add Dartingtons and now the dreaded plastic Dartington. I am lucky; I can cope, convert and build myself. Take your time in any decision making.

Regards, RAB

 

[beebreeder]

Try asking if you can see one in use and possibly help, I have one and sixteen frames of bees and brood plus 3 honey boxes and queens in other end take a while but lifting is less other than the roof.

 

[DulwichGnome]

Queens59,

Have a look at a Warre hive, a light lift of the over wintered hive on to new boxes, no manipulations during the year and you take off the honey from the top at the end of the season. Not everyone's choice I know but worth a look.

Mike.

 

[Moonrocker]

Current Dartington hives have a pitched roof in 2 parts. I'm 5'2" and can lift them no bother at all. See www.dartingtonhives.co.uk

I'll try to post a photo of my hive shortly.

 

[Moonrocker]

Dartington hive

Managed to upload 2 photos to the album attached to my profile.

 

[Queens59]

Thanks Moonrocker, the hive looks lovely. I think the main reason NOT to have a Dartington will be money. I'll have to see how the money tree bears in the spring I think. LOL

 

[oliver90owner]

Moonrocker,

I see no particular correlation between one's height and removing a Dartington roof.

1.3 to 1.9m, or more - makes no difference, just get the hive legs made/cut to a suitable length!
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DulwichGnome,

Re the Warre

A light lift, but how high?

Manipulations are a minimum, but what about when things go wrong. Honey 'supers' also have to be lifted down from a good height. I have considered and discounted Warre hives because of the inability to do swarm control, etc.
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Queens59,

You could consider a TBH? Different from framed hives, but a possibility. There are down-sides to those as well.......

Regards, RAB