Introducing virgin queens

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deemann1

Field Bee
Joined
Mar 25, 2017
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662
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Location
Ireland
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
20+ nucs
I usually intrduce mated queens with cage on frame of emerging brood..
What's the best method for virgin queens, my plan was to make up 3 frame nucs 1 brood 1 food 1 foundation
5 days before queens emerge. cut out any eqc then introduce virgin or would It be better to take cells from the queen rearing colony 2 days before they emerge and stick them in .
Any advice would be appreciated
 
Introducing the QC is more reliable.
 
I always use virgins rather than Qcs unless I have mated ones desperate for a colony. If I have Qcs I drop them in the incubator. When hatched I check their wings etc mark them and run them staight in a quuenless colony. Give the colony a lot of smoke. Then let her out on the top of the brood frames. Give her 10 mins or so and then quick check that she's ok and close them up. Only time ive ever had problems with this method is with LW colonies
 
I have five virgins on order for delivery in June. I was planning on using apideas but I'm now thinking of making some nucs and then hopefully they'll build up in time to overwinter.
 
I usually intrduce mated queens with cage on frame of emerging brood..
What's the best method for virgin queens, my plan was to make up 3 frame nucs 1 brood 1 food 1 foundation
5 days before queens emerge. cut out any eqc then introduce virgin or would It be better to take cells from the queen rearing colony 2 days before they emerge and stick them in .
Any advice would be appreciated

I introduce hundreds of virgins every year so it can definitely be done.
The most important factor is that you get rid of the foragers so you only have young nurse bees. It's ok to have sealed worker brood but, if you have eggs/young larvae, they will often kill the virgin and try to rear their own. It helps if you dunk the virgin in a cup of tepid water to slow her down, or drop her in a pot of liquid honey so the workers come to lick her clean straight away. They won't usually attack a sticky queen but virgins are nervous and can run around wildly if not slowed down.
 
I introduce hundreds of virgins every year so it can definitely be done.
The most important factor is that you get rid of the foragers so you only have young nurse bees. It's ok to have sealed worker brood but, if you have eggs/young larvae, they will often kill the virgin and try to rear their own. It helps if you dunk the virgin in a cup of tepid water to slow her down, or drop her in a pot of liquid honey so the workers come to lick her clean straight away. They won't usually attack a sticky queen but virgins are nervous and can run around wildly if not slowed down.
Would a push in cage over sealed brood work for a virgin?
 
Would a push in cage over sealed brood work for a virgin?

I have used this in the past - just to give her a little time to calm down so she gets used to the new colony and moves slower. This nervousness will often get the virgin killed before she settles in. However, dunking her in water also slows her down. I find the honey works best of all - it slows her movements and the bees come to her for the free food. In the process, they become acquainted with her as a virgin queen. You can do everything right and still lose the virgin though if the bees aren't receptive, Foragers will usually kill virgins so you really have to get rid of these before introducing the virgin (ideally move the nuc to a different apiary but change it's position/orientation at the very least.
Putting her in a push-in cage serves little purpose as she hasn't been mated yet so won't start laying. The only thing it does do is give her time to get used to the nuc.
 
I have used this in the past - just to give her a little time to calm down so she gets used to the new colony and moves slower. This nervousness will often get the virgin killed before she settles in. However, dunking her in water also slows her down. I find the honey works best of all - it slows her movements and the bees come to her for the free food. In the process, they become acquainted with her as a virgin queen. You can do everything right and still lose the virgin though if the bees aren't receptive, Foragers will usually kill virgins so you really have to get rid of these before introducing the virgin (ideally move the nuc to a different apiary but change it's position/orientation at the very least.
Putting her in a push-in cage serves little purpose as she hasn't been mated yet so won't start laying. The only thing it does do is give her time to get used to the nuc.

Ok, so I set up a nuc in the same apiary with sealed brood and stores to start and let the foragers fly home, then move it to another apiary and introduce the virgin dunked in honey.
 
Ok, so I set up a nuc in the same apiary with sealed brood and stores to start and let the foragers fly home, then move it to another apiary and introduce the virgin dunked in honey.

There are no guarantees but that works best for me. Remember - sealed brood is fine, but no eggs/larvae.
 
Not tried the honey dunk on a VQ intro but have with a laying/mated Q.
 
I was taught to dunk as suggested by B+. To stock the minis bees are shaken from multiple hives and then stored in ventilated box in a cool room for a couple of days. Then simply scooped in with a dunked virgin dropped in after and lid shut. There left for a couple of hours and placed out. Nowadays I add cells i find it easier, no dealing with virgins less mucking about. But be sure to use a protector if for nothing else to hold the cell in place. Important also if bees are not all from the cell raiser or there’s any kind of open brood.
 
I was taught to dunk as suggested by B+. To stock the minis bees are shaken from multiple hives and then stored in ventilated box in a cool room for a couple of days. Then simply scooped in with a dunked virgin dropped in after and lid shut. There left for a couple of hours and placed out. Nowadays I add cells i find it easier, no dealing with virgins less mucking about. But be sure to use a protector if for nothing else to hold the cell in place. Important also if bees are not all from the cell raiser or there’s any kind of open brood.

If you have the workers in a confined space, you could also use CO2 to knock them out. Then, you can form the nucs without bees flying everywhere.
 
If you have the workers in a confined space, you could also use CO2 to knock them out. Then, you can form the nucs without bees flying everywhere.
We used to use a plant sprayer to mist the bees down then scoop. I gave up on co2 as partner would not stay still long enough to administer enough of a dose😳
 
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