Beersinthegarden
New Bee
Morning, Say if you removed your queen from the hive how long would it take the bees to make a queen cell and how long should you wait before checking for queen cells?
they will start to panic within minutes so will be making emergency QCs pretty sharpish, if you're looking at forcing them to make a new queen this way, there are a few things you need to consider, so really we need more info.Morning, Say if you removed your queen from the hive how long would it take the bees to make a queen cell and how long should you wait before checking for queen cells?
they will start to panic within minutes so will be making emergency QCs pretty sharpish, if you're looking at forcing them to make a new queen this way, there are a few things you need to consider, so really we need more info.
Are you just removing a queen from a full hive and introducing her to the gatepost? are you thinking of making a walkaway split? removing the queen in a nuc? or Something else?
Broadly speaking, check after day three/four and tear down any capped QC's then day six, and if you still have open QC's keep them.
You're better off getting a super on sharpish, bruise any stores in the brood and leaving them move it up.Brilliant thanks for the info.
I have a honey bound hive packed with bees though on inspection yesterday it's possibly as much as 90% honey or more and no space. I was looking to free up some room for them while at the same time making a spare nuc, they have started storing honey all across the top of frames and I wasn't looking to get honey off this hive this year. Another concern is with this much honey and hardly any brood would a split be less likely to work?
I agree. It needs to be done in a measured way - strong colonies, strong nucs and good mating weather as well as time for the new queen to build up the brood.It’s not the best way - to carry out your beekeeping - btw.
They already have around hereAs they move from prey feeding to sweet feeding soon,
AgreeOne other thing to think about making a nuc up now, apart from getting the queen matted, will be wasps.
As they move from prey feeding to sweet feeding soon, they will make a complete pain of themselves, and any weak/small colony will struggle, so make sure that any nuc can defend it self, be it tunnel/underfloor entrances or what ever you can to help them.
Nuc sized colonies can easily be taken through the winter with appropriate management.
Nuc sized colonies can easily be taken through the winter with appropriate management. The old saying that a swam in July is not worth a fly originates from not getting any return that year and possibly losing them over winter after giving them extra feed.
With the resources you describe you had at the beginning of this thread I wouldn't call it a wise move, you would split an already weak (I don't figure a brood box packed full of stores not brood at this time of year a strength) hive into two even weaker ones then expect both to build up in double quick time, one which may also have the challenge of raising a new queen.So I could risk a late split now?
No and YesSo I could risk a late split now? Do people on the forum have mated queens available for purchase ?
I think what we are finding more and more is the self professed 'experts' banging on and on at beginners that they have to split their hives before winter (as having two p!ss poor weak colonies is much better than one strong one to go through winter)
perhaps they have shares in sugar?Why would anyone do that? Is there something I've missed?