Glue and screw or nails?

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Iceman

New Bee
Joined
Mar 3, 2016
Messages
4
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Location
Lincolshire
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
2
Hi,
Newbie first post... Have 2 flat packed hives, one spread all over the lounge floor! Came with nails, but I've always been glue and screw for stronger joints. Can I,should I(just started a course, but haven't got to the equipment bit yet!)?
 
Screws will pull parts together better so can be usefull if anything is warped
 
the 3 hives I've built were screwed...

Of course, I may not be a good example, since once of the 3 got smashed by vandels, and of the other 2, one is currently in pieces in my back garden because I've decided to redesign it...
 
Glue and screw is the way forward, if you cock up as new folk do, you can get screws back out easier than primitive nails, and on a plus side screws and glue rock..no matter what you are making, ;)

Edited to add... i have a load's of packets of spare nails somewhere and loads of empty screw boxes.
 
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I'd stay with your roots, it's a better job. Get it square, pre-drill then glue and screw. JBM has some nice pics on this. If you screw down/up through the joints, there will be no screws exposed to the elements.
Here you go, post #19
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=34908&page=2

Thanks Steve - saves me posting them again :D
I also use stainless steel screws with torque split heads to ensure no corrosion
 
Thanks Steve - saves me posting them again :D
I also use stainless steel screws with torque split heads to ensure no corrosion[/QUOTE]

I will put collateral on it that them Chinese stainless screws rot like my butt after a Indian meal.
 
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Thanks Steve - saves me posting them again :D
I also use stainless steel screws with torque split heads to ensure no corrosion[/QUOTE]

I will put ca lateral on it that them Chinese stainless screws rot like my butt after a Indian meal.

who says they're Chinese? some I have have been exposed to the elements (I originally screwed in from the sides) for some years and no sign of corrosion.
 
If you have stainless steel screws rusting then they were not proper stainless
do not confuse the brown staining of stainless steel as rust.
brown staining is more prominent on A2 stainless fastners due to it not containing a high enough level of molybdenum
there are two types of stainless screws A2 ( 304 ) stainless for general use in non harsh environments and A4 ( 316 ) stainless for harsh environments
 
I screw and glue on home cut hives as my carpentry is not very good.
I nail and glue on assembly of properly made boxes.

I doubt I will outlive my hives..
 
I glue and screw just because it's quicker. If I had a nail gun I'd probably use that
 
Glue and clamp.. if you're using a decent glue it's all you need .. you can add a few nails after you've removed the clamps if you really want.
 
Thanks for all the advice (and the link). Think I'll stick to what my woodworking teacher taught me all those years ago..."glue and screw that joint boy!". Now; what should I use to protect the outside... Danish oil, warm Danish oil+beeswax, walnut +beeswax or linseed. Bought Cedar hives and I'd like to keep them looking as natural as possible and I guess if I paint them they'll peel(eventually). Use Danish oil for the kitchen worktops,but what's it like outside? That's why I thought of adding beeswax, but can't find any info about that combo online.
 
My cedar hives live outside with no treatment .. a beekeeping friend of mine who made all his cedar hives in the 1960's doesn't treat them .. there are a couple that are looking a little worse for wear but the majority of the 20 hives (body+3 super) are still just as serviceable today as when he made them..
 
This thread reminds me of a bloke I know who glues all his frames. Must be effin bonkers.
 
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http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=12892&stc=1&d=1460670600



I have just put together 50 Dadant hives i bought in Kit. We glue and screw them,clamping them first (and checking their square as the last few screws go in.) These were very recently cut and rebated so they were very resinous (smelt delightful actually) and were drying out and warping before we even started to put them together.
From the pic you might see we use 5.5 x 50mm as the main screws(6 screws on two faces) but also smaller 4 x 45mm screws for the inner sides, going across the joints (6 screws on the other two side faces).
The screws have no thread on the top of the shank, making them tightening as they wind in, so the last 10mm they actually pull the wood together, very important to note. It seems like overkill, but they wont move as they dry out.
But saying all that, my mate has hives over 40 years old, solid as a rock, with no rebated edges, fixed together with just nails.
I am sure many others would say the same, but in those days, men were men and sheep were nervous!!!
 

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