Frames

[Millet]

Hi,

First frames made. Had a bit of an issue with getting the frame nails down into the lower end of the frame as it was splitting the rails so i ended up nailing them through the bars rather than down. I suppose the only issue i can see with doing this is that when id need to change the wax its going to be tough to do so?

Apart from that pretty pleased with my first effort

This is how i do them, with the right gauge pins the wood should not split.
Page 4 post 31 if it directs you to the start of the thread.

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=35835&highlight=Nailing+frames&page=4

 

[Little John]

Can you give us the name of such a glue that you use LJ

Sure. D4 from Toolstation - 100% waterproof - I use it for everything beekeeper-related. Ideal for sealing end-grain on boxes before painting, as well as gluing the various bits of frames and boxes together. £6 a litre - free delivery on orders >£10. (I should be on commission ...)

Two slight negatives: joints need to be kept at >=10 deg C whilst the glue is 'curing' (polymerising) after the initial quick-set; and it has a 6 month shelf-life.

The quick-set is around 10 minutes, and items can be handled gently after that, providing they're not under stress (as in - trying to open-up the joint). I tend to use woodscrews to hold box parts tightly together until the glue fully sets, rather than tie-up the few clamps I have, and then leave 'em in afterwards - as budget quality screws are cheap enough (from the same source).
LJ

 

[hexadecimal]

This is the age of rapid-set, 100% waterproof glues - no real need to use nails anymore.
LJ

I'm a belt and braces guy, using the same glue as you, I've glued all the joints, with pins in the top and brads from the nail gun in the bottom bars.

My first year, so hoping if I've went OTT they just hold up that bit more to any mistakes I make.

 

[Little John]

I'm a belt and braces guy, using the same glue as you, I've glued all the joints, with pins in the top and brads from the nail gun in the bottom bars.

My first year, so hoping if I've went OTT they just hold up that bit more to any mistakes I make.

Absolutely nothing wrong with that approach !
First year ? I'm sure you'll be ok ... best of luck anyway.
LJ

 

[wightbees]

Rapid set is not necessary the best glue for strength I thought?

 

[wightbees]

With budget B+ I need one or the other lol I think I'll have to go electric. Have thought about compressed air but it costly for anything decent.

 

[Little John]

Rapid set is not necessary the best glue for strength I thought?

When I first started to use D4 (and it's D3 cousin), I subjected some samples to destructive testing - in all cases the glue line never failed, but the timber tended to fail alongside the glue line, usually leaving a thin veneer of wood still attached to the glue. So - it would appear that D4 glue is at least as strong as the timber it joins, and probably stronger.

The manufacturers claim that their 502 glue (D3 grade) is even stronger than D4, and is recommended for structural applications - but it ain't 100% waterproof, which is what I require.

BTW - for anyone who doesn't know these EU grades:
D2 is a glue for indoor use only.
D3 is a glue which will tolerate occasional wetting, but must be protected (paint etc) for outdoor use.
D4 is 100% waterproof, needs no protection for use outdoors and can be continuously immersed in water without failure.

LJ