Frame assembly

[mike99]

I have to assemble a load of frames. The task is easy enough although tedious.
The question I have is about the burr of wood that is left on the top bar when you snap the securing bar off. Does it need to be sliced off or can it be left? The foundation can still slide in.

 

[enrico]

Either, it is neater if you ship it off with a Stanley knife.
I make frames up in advance leave that flappy bit in place and don't put the bottom bar opposite on. You can Amie them up without the wax, when the time comes just take the Fallot bit off, put the wax in, easier if you bed it slightly and slot it in rather than slide it in. Put flappy bit and bottom bar on and bobs your uncle.
I have loads of unmade frames like that. It takes a minute to add the wax she. You need them
E
Ps also always pin Bottom bars from bottom cos they come off easier. If you pin from the sides they break during removal
E

 

[Levitt53]

It goes in the same place but tight against the wax to secure it. You then put pins through the piece of wood and the loops of the wire (if you use wired ones) to secure it further. Look on youtube you'll find a simple video I'm sure. It makes sense.

 

[alfazer]

Depending on the frames you can either snap the slip of wood off or you might need to run a knife in the edge to get if off cleanly without splitting.

You take it off, then bend the foundation wires 90deg to sit under the slip of wood. Then pin the slip back on. Put each pin (usually 3) through the slip so it pins the wire as well. This means your foundation cannot slip out.


If you are using unwired, the foundation will be gripped tighter if you take off the slip and pin it tight to the foundation.

 

[enrico]

I think he means the small piece that is left when you take off the flappy bit.

 

[mike99]

I think he means the small piece that is left when you take off the flappy bit.

Thanks for the replies. I have made quite a few already so what people have said tallies with my work so far. It’s just the bit of wood that is left on whe the section is snapped off. Using the Stanley knife works but it’s a faff. I was wondering if that work was necessary.
I have both wired and unwired foundation as I want to try and get some comb. I plan to do my first inspection of the spring this weekend and hopefully put a super an QX on if they have expanded enough.
Then the next task is to try an AS.

 

[Millet]

When I am making frames I snap the wedge out...if it does not come out easy I score it with a Stanley knife..I then go over the underside of the top bar with a sharp wood chisel to remove any bits of wood left over...it takes seconds.

 

[Barbarian]

Nothing to do with trimming the top bar.

I have found that some batches of foundation are wider than others. To avoid wax buckling and attendant problems a fine trim with a Stanley knife allows the foundation to lie flat.

 

[mike99]

When I am making frames I snap the wedge out...if it does not come out easy I score it with a Stanley knife..I then go over the underside of the top bar with a sharp wood chisel to remove any bits of wood left over...it takes seconds.

As usual Steve. You have the same ideas as me. I have got myself a wood chisel, sharpened it and hey presto!

 

[Michael Palmer]

I use grooved top bars, not wedge. Foundation is fastened in with hot wax. Easier to re-new she necessary...no wedges and nails to deal with. After cutting out the old comb, dip top of frame in hot water and scrape out groove.

 

[MartinL]

I cut the strip out with a Stanley knife & put it back 180 deg out with the swarf-edge to the outside.

Hadn't really thought anyone would have done it differently,
it leaves the two clean sides together forming the clear space in the centre.

 

[B+.]

After cutting out the old comb, dip top of frame in hot water and scrape out groove.

Would it be easier to do this when it is cold and the wax is brittle?

 

[Antipodes]

Mike, what sort of glue are you using?