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"what is the best time to stop feeding fondant and go on to syrup feeding"

when you start inspections/manipulations for the year proper (i.e. ignoring a quick mid february peek - assuming we actually get any suitable days).
 
Depends...mainly on when it might be warm enough and/or when you might want them to expand faster with brooding.
 
Hello Denise

Suggest you keep using fondant and when it's warm enough in your area to make the first inspection you could switch to weak syrup i.e. 1pt water 1lb sugar to stimulate brood.

richard
 
March/April - but it depends on the weather.
 
You know (and this is getting to the end of my first year of beekeeping) one of the best things about beekeeping is that you have so much to look forward to in the spring that it makes winter seem much shorter!

I'm looking forward to getting the syrup-making pan out in March/April now.
 
You know (and this is getting to the end of my first year of beekeeping) one of the best things about beekeeping is that you have so much to look forward to in the spring that it makes winter seem much shorter!

I'm looking forward to getting the syrup-making pan out in March/April now.

That cheered me up no end, a good thought for such a horrible day!
E
 
hi all and thanks for your advice just had a look at them this morning and put another block of fondant on will wait till early March
:thanks: denise
 
Where did this obsession of feeding fondant every winter come from? If bees are fed enough syrup or left enough honey in the autumn they shouldn't need any fondant. I was taught only poorly organised beekeepers need to feed fondant in winter. If in a OSR area then this looks like flowering very early possibly in late march so only a few more weeks to go before they can get their own feed. I agree with the other respondants that if you need to feed syrup then most years it is warm enough in march (march 2013 probably not).
 
Where did this obsession of feeding fondant every winter come from? If bees are fed enough syrup or left enough honey in the autumn they shouldn't need any fondant. I was taught only poorly organised beekeepers need to feed fondant in winter. If in a OSR area then this looks like flowering very early possibly in late march so only a few more weeks to go before they can get their own feed. I agree with the other respondants that if you need to feed syrup then most years it is warm enough in march (march 2013 probably not).

In my case, to avoid isolation starvation because the cluster will not leave their brood. Thin pancake of fondant straight onto the bars, so that they have access to food wherever the cluster is located. Last year I could see how the cluster was moving. This year not so.
 
Where did this obsession of feeding fondant every winter come from? If bees are fed enough syrup or left enough honey in the autumn they shouldn't need any fondant. I was taught only poorly organised beekeepers need to feed fondant in winter. If in a OSR area then this looks like flowering very early possibly in late march so only a few more weeks to go before they can get their own feed. I agree with the other respondants that if you need to feed syrup then most years it is warm enough in march (march 2013 probably not).

:iagree::iagree::iagree:
 
hi MASTER BK I agree with you they should collect enough food to keep them going over winter but my problem was last july my good neighbour climbed over the fence and poisoned my bee all I was left with was the brood and a bit of larva and no queens in all my 4 hives so I did not manage to get them back to full strength so I just needed a bit of advice what was the best but thanks for your reply
 
Where did this obsession of feeding fondant every winter come from? If bees are fed enough syrup or left enough honey in the autumn they shouldn't need any fondant. I was taught only poorly organised beekeepers need to feed fondant in winter. If in a OSR area then this looks like flowering very early possibly in late march so only a few more weeks to go before they can get their own feed. I agree with the other respondants that if you need to feed syrup then most years it is warm enough in march (march 2013 probably not).
and if you end up with two hive's in oct with no history of whot has been done to set them up for winter you have to cover all bases don't you ?
 
In my case, to avoid isolation starvation because the cluster will not leave their brood. Thin pancake of fondant straight onto the bars, so that they have access to food wherever the cluster is located. Last year I could see how the cluster was moving. This year not so.

How do you know why they didnt move to get food? and do they not have to move to get the fondant wherever it is?
 
hi MASTER BK I agree with you they should collect enough food to keep them going over winter but my problem was last july my good neighbour climbed over the fence and poisoned my bee all I was left with was the brood and a bit of larva and no queens in all my 4 hives so I did not manage to get them back to full strength so I just needed a bit of advice what was the best but thanks for your reply

I remember that. Did the police ever get anywhere with it?
 
Where did this obsession of feeding fondant every winter come from? If bees are fed enough syrup or left enough honey in the autumn they shouldn't need any fondant. I was taught only poorly organised beekeepers need to feed fondant in winter. If in a OSR area then this looks like flowering very early possibly in late march so only a few more weeks to go before they can get their own feed. I agree with the other respondants that if you need to feed syrup then most years it is warm enough in march (march 2013 probably not).

Plus with all the food they have no room left for brood, so you are actually making things worse not better! LEAVE ALONE
 
Sorry to be controversial, but I feed fondant and lots of it, the obsession of feeding fondant every winter, comes from wanting your bees to survive, in my part of the world many lost all their bees last winter (2012-2013), most lost 50%, I lost none. In your part of the world you may not need to, but up here you often do (if you want them all to survive), in beekeeping “once size does not fit all”.
 
If bees need the help of some extra feed then do it, whenever needed,

Ignore the conventional wisdom that says "if managed properly they shouldn't need it" that's just rubbish trotted out by people who would rather see a colony perish than flourish.
 

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