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Extractor dimensions???

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Has anybody built there own extractor? I'm looking for some ideas as I think that the extractor is probably the most expensive single piece of kit and my Yorkshire pocket is empty. If you have your own, bought or otherwise can you post some dimensions and piccys please?

ps I hope this is in the right section as it's DIY construction.
 

chris_richmond 

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I dont think the dimentions would be that important as long as the amount of frames you want to extract fit in it.
I have a 2 frame extractor and for what I want it is great but I imagine that if you have a couple of hundred frames to extract it would be a pain only extracting 2 frames at a time.

I personally think the space below the extractor basket is more important because if it is too small you will need to keep emptying the extractor as once the honey reaches the basket you cant spin it properly anymore.
 

LondonBee 

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As chris said it depends on the number of frames you have really. A stainless tank will be fairly expensive, plastic obviously cheaper but not as nice. The winding gear and cage could probably be quite easily bought, but once you've done that it's probably cheaper and easier to have bought one pre-done!
 

hedgerow pete 

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how big do we want to go , there is of course the super fantastic video this realy good looking rugged man made for two frames, if you want bigger try these suggestions

dustbins have to be the main starting point a cage will take up 3/4 of it and leave enough room for a storage area dont do steel barrels they are to much dangers involved, try for the basket a bike wheel or a properly built basket £80 from thornes for the cage spinner and all you need then is a shaft of 12mm steel bar with a normal eclectric drill on the end no gears needed so thats £80 for fram £5 for dustbin and the drill £14 from tool station that is around 10% of the thornes 12 frame spinner so saving you £900 not bad i think
 
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I thought galvanised steel was a no-no regarding food substances. I can make the stainless steel cage if I have some measurements. Also how wide/deep does the tank need to be? I'm looking at building a 9 frame radial.
 

hedgerow pete 

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you can do a national super (150mm) plus say 100mm centre shaft and 50 mm on the outer so thats a total of(50+150+100+150+50=400mm inside dims

it is irealivent how many frames till you go over around ten ,500mm round will do the thorne frame is what size 400 or 500 round is it not ? and the frame only has to be 500deep and then below that the honey storage area
also what price is a stainless bin going to cost you to make at work as i would look into buying one from you but i would want mine a simple 1000mm high and 600mm round
 
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you can do a national super (150mm) plus say 100mm centre shaft and 50 mm on the outer so thats a total of(50+150+100+150+50=400mm inside dims

it is irealivent how many frames till you go over around ten ,500mm round will do the thorne frame is what size 400 or 500 round is it not ? and the frame only has to be 500deep and then below that the honey storage area
also what price is a stainless bin going to cost you to make at work as i would look into buying one from you but i would want mine a simple 1000mm high and 600mm round
That's 600mm diameter? Which would give a piece in flat of 1000mm x 1884mm. What about the bottom of the cylinder? I don't think we have any rollers that I could create a cone on. Keep the ideas flowing Pete, I've almost cracked the job but cannot give you a price yet.
 

hedgerow pete 

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sorry maths was not a strong point thats why i always show the working out for others to check, if you where thinking of putting the cone in the bottom as a flow disk and holder of the cage bottom bearing,

how about a flat bottom cut slightly eliptical so we have a fall front to back to the honey tap the bottom bearing bracket can be a piece of 25mm square going from one side to the other and being bolted to the legs does not have to be very sealed as the honey does not go that far up, or how about a small insert on the one leg that tilts the lot forward say 40 mm
 

sahtlinurk 

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i am just building one. takes two BS brood frames but can take four with minor adjustments. just finished the frame basket, ordered the tap and now only have to figure out the fittings in the drum to keep the basket centred. will get some pics up here when ready. probably a few hours in the workshop and done it is.

Lauri
 

G3farms 

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for the bearing in the bottom how about a short piece of square tubing welded to the bottom of the tank. then take a square block of nylon or other food grade plastic and cut it to fit into the piece of square tube. Drill a shallow hole in it a tad bigger than the center shaft. Round over the end of the center shaft. the honey will act as a lubricant.

just a thought

G3
 
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I'm thinking of doing away with the internal bearing because of the potential wear and need for replacement. Instead I can't see any reason why the whole drum shouldn't revolve.
 

G3farms 

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now that is a different idea for sure, can't wait to see this design.

might need to make the bottom a little deeper since the extracted honey would want to be spun to the outside.

G3
 

DulwichGnome 

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I'm thinking of doing away with the internal bearing because of the potential wear and need for replacement. Instead I can't see any reason why the whole drum shouldn't revolve.
Just a thought but you would need to balance the tap with something the other side, :cheers2:, maybe another tap!

Mike.
 

Poly Hive 

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The reason the drum does not revolve is that the tap allows constant drainage to keep the whole construction a reasonable size.

PH
 

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