Encouraging foundation drawing

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Morning all! 3 weeks ago we split our strong colony and 2 weeks ago we introduced a new queen, she has been accepted and is beginning to lay. I initially had them in a nuc to help them through the initial phase as numbers were a little low but they responded well to the tlc and feeding so then moved them into a national brood with foundation to draw. My question is that they seem reluctant to draw any of the new foundation, they are out foraging and bringing in pollen and I guess nectar but maybe not enough to encourage them to draw frames out? Obviously I'd like them to get the frames drawn before feeding starts in September, would you leave them to get on with it or maybe feed them a bit now to encourage them to draw frames? The queen is laying over 3 of the 5 frames at present, one other frame is pollen and the other stores. Feel free to discuss, and thankyou in advance!

PS I marked my first ever queen yesterday, chuffed with that!
 
As long as you do not have supers on that you wish to harvest I would recommend feeding during wax production. Wax production is a very energy consuming process and can also impact on the number of foragers.
 
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They do not need ned combs or your hive is too big to the nuc.

How many frames bees cover and how many frames you have there?

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Heed Finman.

Shortly, some new bees will emerge and the numbers will start to rise (instead of falling, as they are currently). They will then draw comb if there is still a flow and have enough housebees to service the next brood cycle. Taking lots of stores and few bees into winter is a rubbish idea. That is what nucleus hives are for - smaller colonies and less stores.

It would be obvious if only you thought about how a colony gets bigger.

Big colonies will also draw comb later in the year for storage; small colonies struggle.
 
Heed Finman.

Shortly, some new bees will emerge and the numbers will start to rise (instead of falling, as they are currently). They will then draw comb if there is still a flow and have enough housebees to service the next brood cycle. Taking lots of stores and few bees into winter is a rubbish idea. That is what nucleus hives are for - smaller colonies and less stores.

It would be obvious if only you thought about how a colony gets bigger.

Big colonies will also draw comb later in the year for storage; small colonies struggle.

All true, but my suggestion to the original question of how to encourage them to work the foundation would be to move it next to the brood and keep feeding them till its drawn.
 
The question is one I also asked, and also received a VERY mixed answer, even within my own beekeeping association.. I asked this question, because I received two established hives free of charge.. hard to pass that up!!!
Both hives were indeed established, but they were in two medium supers.. the winters here are cold and windy, so I would prefer they had three mediums.. so I added the extra medium.. new foundation/ undrawn... They went about a week without touching the new frames.. so I began asking this question..., and received the adamant and mixed answers...

As varied as those answers were, AND as passionate in one direction or the other.. I want to say here and now, that I am not looking to get yelled at, I am just passing on what seems to be working for me..... Please, take it for what its worth.

In the interest of finding out if feeding did help, I fed one, and not the other.. this took place in the last week of June... to date, (Sat the 27th) the bees I did not feed have only drawn out three frame sides fully, with two sides being started. The fed bees have drawn all frame sides with the exception of the very outside frames having started the inside "sides" and it looks like no comb started on the outside of the outside frames.
I know this test is not scientific, and many factors may contribute to the differences, but The fellow that told me to FEED if building wax/filling frames has been beekeeping longer than I have been alive, so I would like to think he is not full of hot air..
The instructions were as follows....
if they have to build wax, feed them. When you put new honey supers on that are undrawn.. FEED them.. Do NOT use a queen excluder while they are building wax. (didnt ask why?) When they have those frames mostly drawn out.. pull the feeder and add the excluder if your inclined to use one..

I am sure there are valid arguments to doing it this way, but.. I have to say that so far, in this one instance... the advice has been sound.
I put a feeder on the second hive yesterday, will see if that jump starts the comb construction crew.
 
cold in Iowa.

Hi man there. Your problem is not at all foundation drawing.

YOu job is to get the colonies bigger.

It is summer now. Feeding now with sugar you fill the brood area too with sugar and the queen has less space to lay and make more brood.

I live in Finland and it is cold here too in winter. Now 26C. I have had bees 50 years and I know exactly what you should do now. To draw foundations and feed with sugar is the last thing you should to do just now

It is still July. Don't even think about winter.

- Restrict the hive room to the size what bees occupy
- keep the hiver warm and ventilation proper size
- take capped food off that colony has combs to lay'
- wait that new bees emerge and the colony grows.

In summer the amount of bees is minimum factor in colony growing.
You cannot "encourage" the growth because the colony has instinct to motivate themselves without your help. If there are flowers, bees really need pollen to rear new bees. Sugar feeding does not help not in spring and not in summer.

I have just now 15 pieces 3-frame mating nucs, and I must get them to make winter bees.
What I do is that I take emerging brood from big hives and with brood moving I make nucs bigger. Only problem is that I get enough pollen to the brood to grow.

The queen lays in a week one box full of brood, it it has bees enough there.
You cannot help them will filling the combs with sugar.

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The question is one I also asked, and also received a VERY mixed answer, even within my own beekeeping association.. .

Basic proplem is that a beginner is not able to ask right things.
It is not often answers fault what they say

But you must use your brains even if things go wrong. Making mistakes teaches. Best thing is of course experienced menthor and you should get such one.

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Both hives were indeed established, but they were in two medium supers.. the winters here are cold and windy, so I would prefer they had three mediums.. .
When you have now bees in 2 mediums, the colonies cannot need 3 mediums in winter. If the colony has just now 6 langstroth boxes, then they would need that space.



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so I added the extra medium.. new foundation/ undrawn... They went about a week without touching the new frames.. so I began asking this question..., and received the adamant and mixed answers....

Thanks to you that you explain the basic problem.

In Finland many professional winter bees in medium boxes abut all boxes here are insulated. New boxes are almost all polystyrene.


....
In the interest of finding out if feeding did help, .

Forget now the feeding. That is not a solution.
If you continue, and the guys will surely encouragce you in that job, you just spoil your colonies.

It is enough time to get good wintering colonies. But if you continue it however, they are your bees. And remember the SECOND KEY in beekeeping is using BRAINS! Don't do everything what these 2-hive owners ask to do.

KEY nro 3# is pollen field. You must have there fields where bees get pollen next one month. Here red clover blooms up to September. It has high nutrition values.
 
so I would prefer they had three mediums

Heed Finman! Three boxes is not a lot of use if there are not enough bees. Colonies are made up of bees not stores.
 
so I would prefer they had three mediums

Heed Finman! Three boxes is not a lot of use if there are not enough bees. Colonies are made up of bees not stores.


Good heavens!!! Very new to me!! Never seen 3 box hive!

What is your biggest hive just now, Oliver?

.My smallest is one frame.

My biggest has 8 boxes and it has drawn 3 boxes foundations. And it id it in one week.
Last time I took 4 boxes capped honey from it.

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I generally pay a lot of attention to Finman :)

The two mediums they are in are full, lower boxes mostly brood, some brood in top boxes lots of stores, capped honey and pollen around the brood and on the outer boxes..
It takes two full deep supers to get through the winter if its a rough winter.
However.. i guess I have never taken into consideration the AMOUNT of bees in those two deep supers.. So what is being said.. is that in two MEDIUM supers there will be fewer bees, and a smaller space.. so the smaller amount of bees can keep it warm and will have enough stores to survive?
My purpose was simply to pass along what I was told to get frames filled, and that it has worked for me. Not so much about getting through the coming winter or building population.. I didnt intend to open a can of worms.

Fin;
"Basic proplem is that a beginner is not able to ask right things."

I have to agree that asking the right question is sometimes not easy to do.

"When you have now bees in 2 mediums, the colonies cannot need 3 mediums in winter. If the colony has just now 6 langstroth boxes, then they would need that space. "

So you do not think it is wise to build the bees to three boxes? Or basically the same amount two deeps would normally have? I think i understand... even in a 5 frame NUC the bees build the stores they need to survive the winter, and maintain the population based on the SIZE hive they are in? IE: there wont be 50000 bees in a 5 frame Nuc that starve to death.. there will be 5000 bees with enough to survive?

"In Finland many professional winter bees in medium boxes abut all boxes here are insulated. New boxes are almost all polystyrene."

My boxes are cypress and pine.. I have insulated plastic covers and will wrap the hives.. doing so on a hive with two deeps usually pulls them through with some reserves. (depending on how nasty the winter is) which is why I wanted the three mediums.

"Forget now the feeding. That is not a solution.
If you continue, and the guys will surely encouragce you in that job, you just spoil your colonies."

"Spoil them? Making it too easy to build the wax they need? This falls into the realm of not understanding how to ask the right questions. I ask questions, and try to use the advice that makes the best sense to me.. feeding while building wax did make sense, I tried it, and it seems to have worked very well in this instance. I can pull the feeders easily enough.. I just do not quite understand how to get those frames filled as quickly with less work for the bees???

"It is enough time to get good wintering colonies. But if you continue it however, they are your bees. And remember the SECOND KEY in beekeeping is using BRAINS! Don't do everything what these 2-hive owners ask to do."
Well, theres actually several dozen hive owners involved in my wheedling information out of them. :) But as stated. I ask,and try to act on the advice "I" think makes the most sense.. that doesnt mean its right.

KEY nro 3# is pollen field. You must have there fields where bees get pollen next one month. Here red clover blooms up to September. It has high nutrition values. "

I live in farm country. I have a LOT of white and red clover in my fields and hundreds of wildflowers. I watch the pollen coming in about four bees per three or four seconds at the hive entrances so dont think thats a problem right now. Corn is tasseled and the bees are SWARMING it, and the soybeans will be in bloom within a week or three. Alfalfa/clover field beside my own fields as well that blooms about 4 times a year before it gets cut and baled.
Bee heaven around here, which is why I started this :) I just need to get the preconceived notions in line with the advice and learn to ask the right questions!!!

"Heed Finman!"
I do agree that there should be plenty of time.. I just wanted them to have to work less to produce the wax they need so that when they DO have to WORK, it will be in collecting pollen/nectar not building wax/comb. I only feed the hives WHEN they have new comb to build... We have early blooms of dandelions, fruit trees, Lilacs, etc etc.. so even early spring feeding isnt necessary unless they are about to starve because of a hard winter.......
I also dont want to cause them problems by feeding!!!!!!


So... in attempting to ask the right question...
What exactly am I doing that "spoils" the bees by feeding when they build comb? ("you just spoil your colonies.") I assume, that this is considered bad... OK... why? I am not trying to argue!!! I really want to understand!!
 
I

The two mediums they are in are full, lower boxes mostly brood, some brood in top boxes lots of stores, capped honey and pollen around the brood and on the outer boxes..!!

That is the key. You have lots of time to grow a good colony.

Lower box brood. That is good.

In upper box pollen, that is very good.

You should exctract the capped honey that the queen gets soace whre to lay.
And perhaps partly capped frames like 60% capped.

It is very clear, that one box will be enough to winter. 2 box is too much.

The winter cluster will be same size as you have brood frames in September. If you have two boxes brood, then it is very good. It depends if you have pollen plants near your hive in August.

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What exactly am I doing that "spoils" the bees by feeding when they build comb? ("you just spoil your colonies.") I assume, that this is considered bad... OK... why? I am not trying to argue!!! I really want to understand!!

You have one box full of honey.
Then you have another box full of brood. It is OK!

You MUST, (so it works in beekeeping) extract the honey box.
If you now feed sugar, bees fill first the broodf box, Then syrup will stored and capped into honey cells.

So, do as beekeepers use to do:

I am good in growing small colonies and wintering bees but ...

I do not know nothing about about such beekeeping like cacth and resease and how to make 2 litre syrup with the most difficult way.
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You have one box full of honey.
Then you have another box full of brood. It is OK!

You MUST, (so it works in beekeeping) extract the honey box.
If you now feed sugar, bees fill first the broodf box, Then syrup will stored and capped into honey cells.

So, do as beekeepers use to do:

I am good in growing small colonies and wintering bees but ...

I do not know nothing about about such beekeeping like cacth and resease and how to make 2 litre syrup with the most difficult way.
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Thats a really useful reply!

What exactly am I doing that "spoils" the bees by feeding when they build comb? ("you just spoil your colonies.") I assume, that this is considered bad...

It's not a matter of 'spoiling the bees but the bees not needing it. Bees will build comb when they need it, they'll also take any stores if offered. So you're piling in the sugar and the bees are drawing wax or storing it in every available cell - thus denying the queen laying space, thus delaying expansion of the brood nest. They could also be storing sugar in their/your honey stores thus spoiling that. If you were hiving a new colony then maybe a few pints of syrup would 'kick start' the wax makers but usually If there's forage around they'll sort themselves out.
 
Thank you, those are BOTH most useful replies.. By feeding sugar I am blocking up the brood area and in effect, slowing them down rather than speeding them up...
THIS.. I understand, makes perfect sense..
SO...
Starting a nuc, a cutout, or a package on NEW foundation the feeding will jumpstart them, but once they are oriented and moving its best to lay off the feeding and let em have at it..

Feeders coming OFF..
Thank you!!!!
 
So this morning I went to pull the feeders.. the hive that had not been doing much comb building had all but finished their quart of sugar syrup. I removed it, and then pulled the top to see if the frames were filled with syrup.. and... indeed they were!!!!!!
However!!!!!
In three days they have filled most of the frames with comb, though it appears they were also filling it with sugar syrup as they finished each bit.. The combs are mostly drawn, excluding the outside "sides" and those inside "sides" are about half drawn... In three days? is that normal? They only had three "sides" drawn when I put the syrup on.

So.. now I am a bit confused....
Yes, you are absolutely correct that they did store the syrup in every available space blocking up the brood nest... BUT, they also cranked out the wax like mad steroid induced construction workers....
Wife claims I am anal retentive when it comes to understanding things, so I apologize in advance...
the questions...


How long will it take them to USE, the stored syrup and free up brood space to allow laying/pollen stores etc?
Should I shake some of the syrup out to help them make room?

Due to the rapid building of comb.. would it be possible to feed them a bit to boost them and then pull the feeder???
IE: Give them 3/4 or 1/2 a quart of syrup to jump start them and then pull the feeder and shake some of the syrup from the frames when they are nearly completed with the comb building? Or will they cap the syrup and keep the brood chamber blocked?


I was told to feed them until they stopped taking the syrup or the combs were built... I can see the fallacy in such advice clearly after looking into the hive, but I do like the rapid building of comb, so am trying to incorporate the good advice from FIN with the bad to reach an acceptable compromise...
Granted.. with the comb all but finished, I will not need to try this on any of my current hives, but I intend to expand quite a bit each year for the next four or five years, and such a trick would be useful.
 
How long will it take them to USE, the stored syrup and free up brood space to allow laying/pollen stores etc?

You have seen it for yourself. During that time the house bees have been diverted away from brooding duties unnecessarily; that means there will be fewer house bees emerging in three weeks time. In other words you have shot yourself in the foot as the difference over a couple brood cycles can be quite considerable. Those extra house bees lost would have been able to sufficient draw wax to keep ahead of the game. They won't stop foraging to use up the stores, so if there is a good flow, there is no going back. The brooding time is lost.

One question at inspection time is simply 'do they have sufficient stores to last until the next inspection?'
 

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