Ear to the hive again.

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Well we've been using perspex for 30 Years no problem with condensation ever.

Nice abstract Graham. You would never guess what that was unless you'r into beekeeping.
 
In a word....Tinnitus.
Still,as you say,I can always play Doctors and nurses with it....

Ooooooo missies... no one mentioned Docs and nurses. Do you loan out! ;)
 
What's wrong with putting an ear to the side of the hive, cheaper!

Sometimes your ear thinks it hears a buzzing sound when in reality the hive is dead and all it is hearing is the buzzzz of traffic on the nearby highway.
 
I'm surprised your bees over winter with a cold draught funnelling up through the centre of the hive!
Somebody on here calculated how much open space is created by using a couple of matchsticks, and compared it with leaving a 'feeder' hole open. I think the matchsticks lost. ;)
 
Sometimes your ear thinks it hears a buzzing sound when in reality the hive is dead and all it is hearing is the buzzzz of traffic on the nearby highway.

My ears would be really good if I heard traffic where my apiary is! Lucky ain't I, I don't have my hive's next to a 10 lane highway (motorway). :)
 
Hi

Interesting thread, OK ill lay my cards on the table before the following, no hive yet, half way thru beginners course, but this talk of perspex and glass and condensation.

Why not use a double glazed unit, not that expensive given the small size, as am in the glazing business know the costs , maybe € 30/35 euros, could even get triple glazed, given the advances in technology in the glazing industry with gas cavity infills to aid insulation and reflective coatings keeping heat in it should be a good idea ?. if it meant being able to view hive without affecting core temperature would be a good investment. ??

Maybe a Good, or ?? Bad ?? idea, or maybe I am missing some glaring reason as to why this would not work. ??
 
BrianO, if you fancy that for yourself, and you know where you are with weight, fragility of seals, etc - go for it!

I suspect that spending even that much would put off most beekeepers!
And that few beekeepers would have the opportunity of acquiring such a thing at cost price.

But if its your trade, it would be an opportunity to add your personal touch to your hives.

A no-hole board is just fine for most of the year. But a feeder board (with one or more holes) is needed for some feeder designs - but not if you have a Miller or Ashforth type.
Most hobby beekeepers would probably have a ply cover board, with holes for using either a contact or a rapid-type feeder.
For clearing full honey supers of bees (just before removing them), a clearer board is used. This would often be the same ply board with a couple of Porter escapes plugged into those same holes ...
My (ply) "rhombus escape" clearer boards are quicker than porters (just a few hours) and much less fuss. My clear boards stay above the supers, so I can see when they are free of bees ...

For a "top-beespace" hive the cover board can be flat. But for bottom-beespace designs (like the standard National) it needs an 8mm tall rim under the edges of the 'board' - this is usually achieved by a small frame round the cover board.


My suggestion, BrianO, for what ever little its worth, is that you file the thought away until 1- you have handled a live colony, and have some feel for the ruggedness expected, and 2- you have chosen a hive format (and 3 - you've completed your course and understand about the beespace!)
If you do go for it, many here would be interested in learning how you get on.
 
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I find seeing the bees come and go from the entrance enough to satisfy. I see enough of the inside during inspections.

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Somebody on here calculated how much open space is created by using a couple of matchsticks, and compared it with leaving a 'feeder' hole open. I think the matchsticks lost

a spurious calculation - comparing cold air venting up through the centre of the colony or a gentle diffusion around the walls.
 
Somebody on here calculated how much open space is created by using a couple of matchsticks, and compared it with leaving a 'feeder' hole open. I think the matchsticks lost

a spurious calculation - comparing cold air venting up through the centre of the colony or a gentle diffusion around the walls.

Sorry, I have no idea if it's a spurious calculation or not, but the discussion comes up again and again.

I've found the post I mentioned earlier, it's here, post #4 http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=14327

... as i've stressed many times - matchsticks may not seem to produce much of a gap BUT

460mm x 2.5mm x 4 = 46 cm2

which equates roughly to having a 7.5cm round hole at the top of your hive....
 

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