Drone brood removal for varroa control

[freethorpe bees]

Dear All
I would like to try it this year,
1. I assume you put a super frame in?
2. Is it best to put at the edge of the brood nest?
3. Would you put in an already drawn frame or does this not matter?

Thanks
FB

 

[richardbees]

I think the purists use a brood frame with super foundation - so there's some structure to the eventual comb.

My bees make drone comb along the bottom of each frame which I pare off when capped - which is good enough for me.

 

[freethorpe bees]

Ah thanks Richard, that makes sense.

 

[itchyhives]

At what time would you start Drone brood removal, is this something that would be done soon or give it some time yet? Also how many frames should be used for the removal?

 

[tonybloke]

At what time would you start Drone brood removal, is this something that would be done soon or give it some time yet? Also how many frames should be used for the removal?

no need to do this 'til late june / early july.
one frame is sufficient.

 

[Rosti]

I would go the super root (with worker comb) in a Std Nat or (like me) a std Nat in a 14x12. The reason is that you cause less disruption. They'll build below the frame, hopefully as drone and when it is full of capped drone brood it is quick and easy to take the hanging comb off with a hive tool and return the frame for 'another crop'

I've not had any prob with it breaking of prematurely, but you do need to handle responsibly when inspecting. R

 

[freethorpe bees]

Thanks Rosti. Would you put the frame at the edge of the brood nest and would you put in an already drawn super frame?

 

[Rosti]

Thanks Rosti. Would you put the frame at the edge of the brood nest and would you put in an already drawn super frame?

Already drawn super frame, no point slowing them - provided the frame is worker brood size of course! You are already reducing target brood area by about a 1/16 given it's the middle 8 frames that are likely to hold brood so no point denying them the chance to build further. Mine are all in one of the middle 4 slots, but needs to be centralish to ensure you get a 'varoa' crop otherwise you could limit brood area but take no reduction benefit, which is worst case. I think last year I must have removed drone brood def 2 poss 3 times, would have to check the hive notes.

 

[freethorpe bees]

So could I use a frame from last year's super? This is only my second year so I have a limited number of drawn frames.

 

[richardbees]

free,

- on reflection, I agree with Rosti as I can see the point about easy removal of the free drone comb from the bottom of a Super frame.

Yes, frame from last year's super will be ok.

rich

 

[freethorpe bees]

Thankyou, blimey this learning curve never ends!

 

[MJBee]

Freethorpe bees - Your comment of being short of drawn super frames.

I guess that you got 1 super drawn last season and assume it was an 11 frame box. Now that it is drawn you can reduce the number of frames as low as 9. They are then evenly spaced in the box and the bees draw them further out. Result - easier to uncap same amount of honey and spare drawn frames.

Rgds Mike

 

[freethorpe bees]

Thanks Mike, I only got seven of the eleven frames drawn out by the end of last season, and one of them collapsed in the extractor! So my drawn frames are rather few and far between. I will keep one aside for the varroa control and hope the girls draw the rest out quickly, then reduce the number if frames in the super to nine (I have got a couple of supers with nine castellations).
Assuming this all makes sense of course!
FB

 

[janandmaxbee]

re varroa control with a super

I have put a super in - how long should I leave it - Would 20 days be a reasonable time. ? bearing in mind I am not sure how long the bees will take to make the foundation below the super. Dont want the drones to hatch with the varroa. thanks.

 

[rae]

Standard brood in a 14x12, somewhat off centre. The extra bit gets drone comb every time.

 

[greatbritishhoney]

Dont want the drones to hatch with the varroa. thanks.

That's a very very important point. You MUST cull the drone brood before it hatches otherwise you will massively increase your varroa load.

 

[Skyhook]

I have put a super in - how long should I leave it - Would 20 days be a reasonable time. ? bearing in mind I am not sure how long the bees will take to make the foundation below the super. Dont want the drones to hatch with the varroa. thanks.

Depends on the bees. 20 days would certainly be fine, but I would want to inspect before then to check for queen cells. Anytime between capping and about 12 days after that.

 

[tkwinston4]

Depends on the bees. 20 days would certainly be fine, but I would want to inspect before then to check for queen cells. Anytime between capping and about 12 days after that.

Possibly a silly question but what proportion are likely to be capped prior to removal? I presume they wont all be capped at the same time?

 

[Finman]

.
Lets look how drone comb catch mites. Mites go into cell just before capping. After capping it doest not catch mites. Drones are few days in different stage.

Drone cycle is 3,5 weeks. if drood area catch mites during one week, it does not catch 3 weeks.

So, one way is to devide a frame in 4 parts with wood slices and then a wax slice, wrom where bees make drone cells. You may cut ready drone cells from some frame.

If you do not remember take away drone zone, it will be a mite hatchery.

 

[susbees]

no need to do this 'til late june / early july.
one frame is sufficient.

Why? Surely earlier the better before they multiply? Most of my bees were overwintered with a frame of naturally drawn drone brood. IPM on what's needed depending on the extent of the problem and hopefully plenty early drones. Flaw in strategy?