DIY polyhives - is there such a thing?

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scuttlefish

Field Bee
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DIY polyhives - is there such a thing? Practically speaking, I mean.

With wooden hives I can knock up ekes, roofs, crown boards (even with my limited craft skills & tools) etc. easily enough and save money that way. If I switched to poly - is it as simple as buying sheets of polystyrene and hotwire cutting them as needed? I'm guessing not, but then I've never tried it.
 
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Many in Finland have made DIY hives from insulating polystyrene. I have made some boxes too.
Before I used them, they went broken.

It is waste of time.

What you should do is frames. Their cost is more that polybox.

You pay double price from poly box than we and 3 times that of our frames.

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Many in Finland have made DIY hives from insulating polystyrene. I have made some boxes too.
Before I used them, they went broken.

It is waste of time.

.

Good to know. Is it worth making accessories like roofs, ekes out of them to go with ready-made broods & supers?
 
diy stuff

you can still make roofs etc from wood, in fact I find a wooden roof is better as it adds a bit more weight.

Martin
 
is it as simple as buying sheets of polystyrene and hotwire cutting them as needed? I'm guessing not, but then I've never tried it.
The poly sold for insulation or packing is a lot less dense than the same stuff used for hives. Around 100g/litre is the usual quoted density, it gives the sort or resilience that means the boxes last and the bees don't burrow into the surface. Some have had ideas of building hives with the surfaced insulation sheets or insulation composites, which might work and some may have examples but I've not seen any in action.
 
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I make covers and bottoms from wood, and I used recycled material.

In Capital city I find good stuff
companies prepare houses and apatments. Sometimes there are a huge amount smooth thin board.

Of course that needs 100 pounds table saw from Lidl.

Ants love warm soft polystyre board. They move in in 48 hours.
Bees bite soft polystyrene too. Then you have plastic dust everywhere.

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The answer is to use polyurethane sheets not polystyrene. These are much stronger have a thin metallic sheet on both sides. They can also be cut and routed with wood working tools, including those purchased form Lidl for £100 Finman!

If you search this thread for posts by Derekm you will find some interesting stuff. I think using glassfibre tape for joints is good but not for exposed surfaces wherethe boxes meet.
I have my own home designed and manufactured Langstroth polyurethane hives out in the field on trial this year with plastic frames and foundation (these were bought in). They seem fine so far but it is too early to be sure at the moment.

I expect to have to improve things in the light of this years experience.

I would certainly recommend having a go.


Mark

Mark
 
the simple way is of course to make the side panels all four of them from celotec insulation, including the rebates for the top once made this material then needs to have a hardend face applied to it to make it last ,
i would suggest either a fibreglass resin coating three or four layers, put the first one on thinned this will then soak into the celotex insulation panel or you could use ronseal wood hardener from a diy store to harden the top cut edges it will also soak into the soft insulation and harden the edges aswell, the sides are glued together with a mastic based glue or pinned with a wood workers joint like dovel tails and wooden pins to hold it in place,

its very simple to do actually, i am surprised many others dont do it, i would think its easier to make from celotex than wood
 
To realise the full benefits of pu/pir hives you need to
Improve box to box sealing and floor entrance design. Remember. A tree nest has no joins and average entrance tunnel length of 150 mm. No OMF
Having done the resin and fibre glass route I can say its too labour intensive. Currently trying alternatives
 
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so I have been looking into this a little more for you.

so the fibre glass route did not work, any reason why not, i did not suggest to use fibres just resin, after this type up i will source a picture for you so you can have some ideas to try.

so first up is a simple rebate cut section of 50mm celotex, note celotex not polystyrene.
I like the celotex as it has the simple foil sheet on both faces making it sealed nice and tight, now starting with the basics we can simply varnish the cut edge this allows for a harder working face than before from the open end of the foam.
PIC_3391.jpg

you could also seal it with a single layer of tin foil tape that is used normally with the celotex sheets, i personally would also like to add a ceramic tile edge bead to it as well so we have a great edge to work the frames with, this basicly means what we are left to do is to make the edge of the celotex , one bee eating it, proof and harder wearing for us.

to increase penatration of the varnish, or as i prefere here ronseal wood hardener, we can attack the edge with a single 75mm nail to make some holes or perforations to allow the hardener to penatrate better

PIC_3389.jpg


of course what we are looking at does not as such have the bead added but the ideas there for you

next up is to change from added wood hardener into resins, i have used here cheap as chips fibreglass resin, polythingymajig stuff, easter! , thats it easterpoly resin!!!:iamwithstupid:

any way we can use it to penatrate the foam core or we can also remove a section to back fill, here i have dug out a section 25mm wide and 8mm deep and poured in resin to give me a very hard edge the rest is coated several times with resin, the first coat penatrates the other two sit on top

PIC_3388.jpg


now after this little lot and the fact i have just run out of resin, we will look at timber additions.

just out of intrest a section side will take about 50ml of resin as a base coat and the top coats are around 30ml a time on some thing around 500mm long 50mm wide inc rebate

polyhive2061.jpg


so what i have done here is drawn a few ideas, i will run through them if you like,

the idea is to add a 12mm layer onto the edge of the celotec sheet to seal it and to allow us to work with older ideas,

SECTION A
so the base was to add the 12mm ply across the top face and a tile edge bead, a block of wood then became the outside edge and super support on the base of the next box is a simple layer of ply 12mm thick and a second one to act as a interlocker and brace at 22mm by 22mm

so no bee space so its scrap

SECTION B
got fancy here tried to use a machined profile to the top layer and an outside edge pieces, got bored and gave up as to complicated

SECTION C
again the idea is to have a rain cover strip on the outside but this one idea will squish every bee going so again scraped

SECTION D
so heres a fairly good basic idea, 12mm ply ripped up to 50mm wide on top of the celotex sheet a piece of timber batton 22mm wide and 30mm high stuck to it to make a support add a tile edge trim and away we go with a top bee space brood box, on the base of the bee super above a single rip of ply 50mm by 12mm and a second piece as the inter locker at 12mm ply by 22mm wide. just to make life a little more complicated though i desided to add outside pieces these were to use a handles and to keep the rain out, the bottom piece was going to be a piece of door arcitrive at 50mm wide and about 18mm thick and the piece above was a section of 12mm ply rippped 30mm wide

polyhive1060.jpg

so working the glitches out why not try PLAN E

what we have here is sticking to the basics of a section of 12mm ply as a capper. i have then added the tile edge bead and a section of 18mm ply 32mm wide with a strip of 12mm ply on the outside 50mm wide, great fantastic the base of the next box has a single strip of ply 50mm wide and an outside piece 35mm by 12mm, absolutly fantastic that,


shame i forgot the top bee space and the interlocker???????????????


SO PLAN F

F for fed up or fool or flippen eck i have done it ha ha ah ha ha ha ha ha

polyhive059.jpg


here i have done from the base board up wards so starting from the bottom,
the base is a single piece of celotex with a 50mm 12mm ply rip all the way around it with a 22by 22 mm batton, above it and on all the boxes and supers alike is a single piece of 50mm by 12mmply base with a section of 12mm ply 22 to 23mm wide depending on how wobbly i am when i cut it up!

on the top of the brood box is a simple section run through, again with the 50mm wide 12mm ply capper with a section of tile edge bead on the inside as a frame holder and then a section of timbre 24mm wide by 26mm high batton

then above us again a rip of 50mm wide 12mmply and a 12mmply by 23mm section as the inter lock

i have drawn on the outside in red some rain section handle pieces out of intrest for you

i hope that gives you some more ideas

hedgy
 
pete, interesting ideas, but the wood sections you are using are quite a big heat leak. have you considered 3mm ply on top of the celotex? This uses the celotex to have the basic shape with just the ply to reinforce.

I'm sticking with Reticell/celotex matierial but facing the cut edges of it with a combination of metal and plastic to provide a good seal, high insulation, mechanical protection and low labour input.
 
Hedgerow pete.

that stuff is brill, thanks for taking the time and sharing. Any thing which brings down the cost and adds it insulation at the same time has got to be good.
 
no worries man anytime, is there any thing you had thought of that i have missed that you want me to investigate for you or to work the bugs out of ?

Not yet - I'm still waaaaaay behind on both the DIY thing and the polyhive thing - but I know where to come now!
 
OK Derek fantastic job, plans please NOW, sorry but a bit excited about this material and poly hives
PS hope it doesn't have that horrid squeaky rubbing sound that poly has
 
how much?

if you was to buy the minimum size sheet readily available, of all the componets, how much/how many could you get from it?
 

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