demeree

[stenibee]

found 2 queen cells yesterday. carried out demeree A/S. any thoughts?

 

[Hivemaker.]

carried out demeree A/S. any thoughts?

Which have you done, a demaree or vertical artificial swarm.

 

[oliver90owner]

What precisely do you mean by a 'queen cell'?

 

[Summerslease]

Only two? Possibly supercedure attempt rather than a swarm attempt. Boy, will those poor bees be confused.

 

[stenibee]

not supercedure. bottom of frame. prolific layer. also queen still present

 

[stenibee]

What precisely do you mean by a 'queen cell'?

i mean capped queen cell. doh

 

[stenibee]

Which have you done, a demaree or vertical artificial swarm.

sorry swarm prevention.HomeAbout UsKeeping BeesFacts & TipsContact UsLinks
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The Demaree Method of Swarm Prevention

A more extreme mechanism for preventing swarms is the Demaree method of swarm prevention. The method was first explained by George Demaree in an article in the American Bee Journal in 1884. This method is similar to most methods of artificial swarming in that it relies on separating the eggs and brood from the queen although, unlike swarm control, the demaree method is more aimed at pre-emptive action before any queen cells appear.
The Demaree Method
This method splits the hive with the queen and flying bees below the queen excluder and the brood and nurse bees above. This alleviates overcrowding and prevents any swarming urge. Over the next 3½ weeks as the brood above emerges and having destroyed or removed any queen cells, the old “mother” box can be taken away leaving a full strength colony behind.

The technique is also useful for making increase. Following the split, the top box is likely to produce a number of emergency queen cells (more likely if there is a degree of separation from the box with the queen by having 2 or 3 supers between). The top box can then be split into a couple of nuclei or, a number of queen cells can be used to make up nuclei using bees from other colonies.

Other than the queen, the bees are left free to move between all the boxes of the split colony during the process. Thus the colony remains at full strength throughout.


Preparation
This method requires an additional brood box with foundation (preferably drawn) but other than this, requires no other special equipment.


Keys to success
The keys to the success of this method are:

to only perform the manipulations when the colony is ready. That is, the colony must be ready to swarm. Key indicators will be brood on 8 or more combs, lots of drones and early signs of queen cell production (queen cups being extended).

the queen must be found therefore marking her early in the season will be of benefit.

timing – queen cells must be removed in good time to prevent forcing the colony to swarm.


Method


Step 1:
Have prepared a second brood box with foundation (some of which should ideally be drawn).

Step 2:
Remove the roof and supers and place the old brood box to one side. Place the new brood box on the old floor and remove 2 frames from the centre to create a space.

Step 3:
Find the queen* and place her and a frame of brood (with unsealed brood) in the centre of the new brood box. Ensure there are no queen cells on this brood frame. Close up the gaps and add a spare frame at one end.

Step 4:
Place a queen excluder on the new brood box, followed by the supers and then the original brood box on top. Remove any queen cells that already exist in the original box (either destroy them or use to make up nuclei as desired). Add a spare frame to close up the gap. Replace the crown board and roof.

Step 5:
After 5 or 6 days inspect the top brood box and remove any queen cells (destroy or use for nuclei accordingly). To leave it any longer may result in the colony swarming. No further queen cells can be developed as there won’t be any available eggs or larvae.

Step 6:
After 25 days from the original manipulation, the top brood box can either be removed as all the brood will have emerged (or the two brood boxes can be placed together to make a double brood box at an earlier stage).

*Care should be taken not to drop the queen. She can be found and held in place using a push-in marking cage before the original brood box is moved to prevent her being dropped on the floor.


The nurse bees will stay mainly with the brood in the top brood box. The flying bees will continue to fly to and fro from the entrance in the bottom brood box. Some of these flying bees will become nurse bees and some of the nurse bees in the top box may relocate downwards to look after new brood there. This method leaves the workers completely free to move around the hive, so they will form their own natural balance.

Following the manipulation of the boxes, the colony will probably develop some emergency queen cells in the top brood box. If these are left, the colony may swarm, losing the old queen and most of the flying bees. Therefore, it is important that the beekeeper returns to remove any queen cells after 5 or 6 days. Timing is critical. After this, there should be no viable larvae from which new queen cells can be raised.

This method is aimed at keeping the colony together and preventing the bees from swarming. Although originally intended for use only once during the season, the bees may show signs of swarming again if they continue to build up. Therefore, many beekeepers repeat the process as often as necessary during the season.

Some beekeepers use this method to raise new queens whilst preventing swarming. When new queen cells appear in the top box, these can be used to re-queen other hives or to make up nucleus colonies. Care should be taken to remove or destroy all the queen cells in the top box as leaving just one to develop may result in the colony swarming.
This method is given as guidance only. After trying one or more key methods of swarm control, the beekeeper should go on to experiment and develop their own variations to suit their own preferences.

 

[Finman]

.
The recipe is strange. Not clever at all


Look from MAAREC swarm control letter.

Preventive ... What to do that swarming fever does not arise.

- before swarm cells rise upp all brood combs over excluder and put queen to lay under excluder onto empty combs

How to cut swarming fever
- AS

And many other things

 

[Hivemaker.]

sorry swarm prevention.

Demaree then, not an artificial swarm.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

too late to conduct Demarree if QC's are found - it's a proactive system not reactive

 

[Moggs]

i mean capped queen cell. doh

The question was quite relevant. Essentially three types of QC: swarm, supersedure and emergency. You have stated that your QC's are capped., in which case, if swarming was their intention, they would have gone. Your Demaree hasn't done much to help in either the swarming or supersedure situation.


I've had that déjà vu before...

 

[boca]

Drones above queen excluder

I would like to ask how emerging drones are managed when brood is moved above the queen excluder.
Is an additional entrance mandatory?

 

[enrico]

Yes, I have tried it without but there are so many drones it doesn't look pretty! Use a snelgrove board, solves the problem
E

 

[Fatbee]

I agree, the Snelgrove Board is a handy bit of kit to have

 

[Finman]

Only two? Possibly supercedure attempt rather than a swarm attempt. Boy, will those poor bees be confused.

When it is swarming time, I do not take risk to see, were they swarming cells or swarm cells. But normally hive makes 10-15 swarm cells. But the risk.

There is something wrong with queen when they supercede. And superdece cells are in bottom too.

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

Yes, I have tried it without but there are so many drones it doesn't look pretty! Use a snelgrove board, solves the problem
E

+1. Heartbeaking is the term I would use. It's simply cruel. I now use my first home-made box which has a drone-sized hole in one corner. Causes no issues with the females and I have no more dead drones in the QE.

 

[YorkshireBees]

Call it what you want, I call it my demaree board home made from a feeding board.

A swing door is cut in one side held by a small screw and I cut up an old queen excluder and secured two bits over the feed holes with drawing pins.

Placed above the supers below the demareed brood box this works well and allows the drones to fly freely.

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

+1. Heartbeaking is the term I would use. It's simply cruel. I now use my first home-made box which has a drone-sized hole in one corner. Causes no issues with the females and I have no more dead drones in the QE.

Here is my drone door in action. Note the fine big fella on approach. The misalignment of the boxes is not essential (!). Oops.

 

[YorkshireBees]

Here is my drone door in action. Note the fine big fella on approach. The misalignment of the boxes is not essential (!). Oops.

Drone door or wasp entrance?

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

Drone door or wasp entrance?

Haha. It'll be shut as soon as the Demaree is over; and it's guarded.