Changing from plastic QE to metal one

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

idg

House Bee
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Messages
307
Reaction score
1
Location
Midlands
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
7
I am considering changing from my plastic QE to the wooden rimmed metal ones. My frames are flush with the tops of my boxes, so there is no bee space between frames and plastic QE. If I switch to metal ones, do I need to worry about the bee space created?
 
You use a framed wire excluder bee space underneath, thus preserving bee space between interfaces.
 
What is wrong with a plastic QE. I haven't used either but was considering having plastic as its so cheap. Seems a few complain about them - but why?
 
I am considering changing from my plastic QE to the wooden rimmed metal ones. My frames are flush with the tops of my boxes, so there is no bee space between frames and plastic QE. If I switch to metal ones, do I need to worry about the bee space created?
No, your bees will probably appreciate the extra space between the excluder and the frames, especially when you take it off- something that normally cause a bit of protest when you remove an excluder that is stuck to the frames.
 
What is wrong with a plastic QE. I haven't used either but was considering having plastic as its so cheap. Seems a few complain about them - but why?

They lie flat on the frames and get totally stuck to the frames. Devil of a job to get off and you will probably upset bees doing so.

Throw them in the bin and get wire framed ones. Much much better.
 
Put a rim on the plastic ones and they work fine
 
Put a rim on the plastic ones and they work fine

I agree cut some strips of 6mm ply about 32 mm wide & staple this around the outside, also cut a bit 50mm long & staple it to the middle to keep it up off the frames so it doesnt sag. I use wire ones too but i have seen the flat metal ones that look like the plastic type have sharp edges where the bees go through.
 
Plastic either lie on top of frames or, if higher, they sag and are propolised/burr combed. This means the holes are reduced and entry to the supers restricted. I am experimenting without QEs this year.
 
I used a plastic QE and crown board to "protect" some wet supers over winter. A mouse has eaten through the plastic QE where the hole was in the crown board and made a mess of the frames in the super.
I will buy metal excluders in future!
 
I used a plastic QE and crown board to "protect" some wet supers over winter. A mouse has eaten through the plastic QE where the hole was in the crown board and made a mess of the frames in the super.
I will buy metal excluders in future!

Or use a proper crownboard with no holes - bees will have got through the QX and you could have ended up with a robbing frenzy - wet supers need to be closed up tight for more than one reason (discouraging waxmoth being another)
 
I am considering changing from my plastic QE to the wooden rimmed metal ones. My frames are flush with the tops of my boxes, so there is no bee space between frames and plastic QE. If I switch to metal ones, do I need to worry about the bee space created?

Don't worry, that space is there deliberately - note that the rim only makes space on one side of the wires.
For your "bottom beespace" hive, you want that rim/space under the wires.
For top beespace hives you wouldn't need to buy a different version - it just gets used the other way up -- creating a beespace between the wires and the bottom of the frames in the box above.

You can buy (for about £6) a metal 'comb' which makes cleaning the excluder wires much simpler.

When removing the QX, be gentle with it, don't try and lift it from one corner! The things you risk breaking as the QX bends are the corner joints in the rim.

If you are going to be careful with the rim (so it lasts forever) then you might be interested to know that Thorne have (this year) introduced a version with stainless steel (rather than galvanised) metalwork.


These rigid-wire QXs are much much better than the sheet types. The problem with the sheets isn't just getting them off, its cleaning everything so that you can replace the thing.
You won't go back to them!
 
Over the years I have tried all types of QEs and the wire type I find the best. The bees seem to put more honey in the supers and less in the BB with the wire type, it could be a 14x12 thing but.
 
Plastic will go brittle and won't take the stress through twisting as is required when removing them.

Not had that happen yet, have some ten years old and still tough as old boots, what age do they go brittle?
 
I've had some ( over 140 of them ) for 10 + years like Hivemaker has and they are still intact, sit square and not brittle either but I suppose the ones we are using might be from better quality manufacturing stock than some shabby plastic manufacturers nowadays.

I'm sure ours were made in France.
 
Last edited:
Not had that happen yet, have some ten years old and still tough as old boots, what age do they go brittle?

It's a well known fact that UV makes plastic brittle, that's why I never bought any. The ones that I did look at had a sharp bur much the same as the galvanised slot type, which tends to damage the bees wings.
 
I use the plastic QE and find them to be fine. No sagging or brace comb etc... certainly can't see them going weak, in theory you only handle them once a week for maybe a third of the year.
 
Plastic will go brittle and won't take the stress through twisting as is required when removing them. I use the wire type with a wooden frame, next ones I buy will be with a metal frame from BH Bits.

If you make a wooden frame for them they come off the same as the wired ones.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top