Cedar

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Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
1,031
Reaction score
106
Location
S. Wales
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
20 & 6 Nucs
I've just come back from the sawmill with a load of Cedar ready for the winter projects. This has just cost me £130 + VAT. I worked out that I can make at least 12 (14x12) brood boxes, with a load of rails ready cut for the next lot! Its about 18-20% moisture, so it will take a few months to get down to where I want it but at the end of the day its going to live outside! Happy days.

Car Load



Here it is all 'stickered' drying under a shelter.

 
Did you use our friends at Usk or get it elsewhere?
 
Have you got to join them up to get the depth for 14x12 or are they wide enough

I will have to join them (biscuit joint), when I had it cut they said that 12½" was pushing it, so I had them all cut at 9½" so if I make some supers the off cut will make up the difference for the 14"x12". So I plan to thickness them, cut to width and them I'll biscuit joint them with a waterproof glue for the larger brood box. However I do have a spindle moulder which I could use to joint them.
 
I will have to join them (biscuit joint), when I had it cut they said that 12½" was pushing it, so I had them all cut at 9½" so if I make some supers the off cut will make up the difference for the 14"x12". So I plan to thickness them, cut to width and them I'll biscuit joint them with a waterproof glue for the larger brood box. However I do have a spindle moulder which I could use to joint them.

Should keep you busy for a while :)
 
If you. Have smaller size timber at the top on side and large size on bottom and reverse for ends that will stager. the joints


Sent from my C1905 using Tapatalk
 
Technically if you're jointing it's better from a stress perspective to have 2 pieces of timber that are the same width.. however that would mean having to joint the cut-off peices to make another usable plank
You should also reverese the grain on the two sections you're joining so that on one half the rings face out and on the other they face in. This reduces the aggregate warping effect.
From this perspective joining 3 or 4 narrower pieces is better but a lot more work.

Shame the mill is too far from me to make it economical for me to use.
 
Technically if you're jointing it's better from a stress perspective to have 2 pieces of timber that are the same width.. however that would mean having to joint the cut-off peices to make another usable plank
You should also reverese the grain on the two sections you're joining so that on one half the rings face out and on the other they face in. This reduces the aggregate warping effect.
From this perspective joining 3 or 4 narrower pieces is better but a lot more work.

Shame the mill is too far from me to make it economical for me to use.

They have delivered in your neck of the woods. Group buy??
 
They have delivered in your neck of the woods. Group buy??

Hmm.. hadn't really considered the option. As far as I know I'm the only one in the association that makes anything .. floors, roofs, crown boards, nuc boxes, even to the extent that I've made all the stands for the association apiary.
 

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