Castors for large electric extractor

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dpearce4

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Hi I have a big 20 frame extractor and want to put it on castors. is it better to put it on 3 or 4 to stop it shaking to much?

I thought 3 would be better but not sure why I think that.
 
I thought 3 would be better but not sure why I think that.

All 3 would be contacting the floor. Not necessarily the case with 4. (As Redwood suggests.)

I was looking around on this subject a few weeks ago, and came across Ross Castors who do a range of 'ball' castors in different sizes and load-bearing ratings.
I have no doubt that ball castors would be better for an out-of-balance extractor than any type of axle/wheel thing.
It was actually Lidl selling heavy duty (but IMHO inappropriate) castors that set me looking!
Anyway 3 of these things would support up to 80 kg ... and be easy to fit!
http://www.rosscastors.co.uk/1009-1-ball-transfer-with-a-1-ball-on-an-m8-thread.html
 
You have to bear in mind that your floor surface has to be perfectly flat/ smooth for the ball to roll. The slightest obstruction and you'll end up shoving/lugging it. Smaller the wheel/ball the worse it will be.

I have a thxxnes three leg 9 frame. Wound'nt fancy lugging your 20!

Regards

FB
 
You have to bear in mind that your floor surface has to be perfectly flat/ smooth for the ball to roll. The slightest obstruction and you'll end up shoving/lugging it. Smaller the wheel/ball the worse it will be.

I have a thxxnes three leg 9 frame. Wound'nt fancy lugging your 20!

Regards

FB

Agreed and the smallest bit of grit in the ball cup will play havoc with its ability to rotate.
 
It needs to be a very clean / level surface. Failing that, look for castors that you can remove once stationed, to make hoovering them easier to get grit ect out.
 
you can get rubber wheeled castors may absorb some vibration .
might be an idea to use some with a brake on to stop it dancing round when in use.

The main idea of castors is not usually for shifting the thing.

It is specifically to allow it to "dance around" - freely - while in use and thereby limit itself to travelling only a few inches while not shaking itself to pieces or overstressing the bearings.

Ball castors, unlike wheels, specifically allow it to move in any direction - or rather every direction that it wants to!

Allowing the thing to move freely actually stabilises the extractor!

Please note that the items I linked above are 'industrial duty' grade and do have a self-cleaning action.
They also have a really large 1" ball - and that means that they will be able to ride over small imperfections in the floor rather better than the typical smaller ball castors - as seem to be used by Thornes
LINK => http://www.thorne.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=castors&product_id=280
 
well you learn something every day.
 
I was looking around on this subject a few weeks ago, and came across Ross Castors who do a range of 'ball' castors in different sizes and load-bearing ratings.
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I have use Ross Castors and can recommend them.

Mike
 
the ones I got are similar to the ones on the bottom of a pallet cage, they have a weight rating of 100kg each so they will be strong enough and I am going to go with the 3wheel version. just need to work out the best way of attaching them.

but I do have a couple of months to work that one out. they are going to be on a smooth concrete surface cleaned and washed for extraction.
 
the ones I got are similar to the ones on the bottom of a pallet cage, they have a weight rating of 100kg each so they will be strong enough and I am going to go with the 3wheel version. just need to work out the best way of attaching them. ...

Yes, that's why those I linked appealed so strongly. Simples!

Ross say that the weight rating of the ball castors is halved if mounted 'downwards', so I was halving it in my previous post.
 
Very useful to have locking castors as then you can put some phone directories under one castor to tilt the extractor. This helps when you are draining the last bit of honey out and want to speed things up without the risk of the extractor moving.
 
Very useful to have locking castors as then you can put some phone directories under one castor to tilt the extractor. This helps when you are draining the last bit of honey out and want to speed things up without the risk of the extractor moving.

good idea.
 
Very useful to have locking castors as then you can put some phone directories under one castor to tilt the extractor. This helps when you are draining the last bit of honey out and want to speed things up without the risk of the extractor moving.

Locking castors are not necessary for tipping an extractor to drain it.
 
Hi Doug, what i did was to cut out a piece of worktop an inch and a half bigger than the circumference of the extractor and bolted the extractor to it, the bolted three heavy duty casters to the underside of the worktop directly under the extractor legs, i did try four casters but it danced about too much, three worked much better, to increase stability even more i place a 25 kg weight in the middle of the worktop under the extractor, a 30 lb honey bucket also fits just right on the worktop when empting the extractor, to tip the last drops of honey out a piece of 4x2 work well for me, hope this helps Chris
 
Locking castors are not necessary for tipping an extractor to drain it.

if I set 2 towards the front and one directly to the back of the pourer then that would work if I don't want to have a locking wheel.
 
Just make sure that you are able to limit the excursion as you tip it or it might fall without locking wheels.

If you had something like a 2" x 4" lip under the front, then as you tipped it, the lip would contact the floor and ensure that nothing bad happened. ( or a couple of smaller wooden blocks )

Then you just need to prop up the back castor to drain the extractor.
 
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