Candlemaking query...

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Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
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Location
Dartmoor edge, uk
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
5...2 wooden National, 2 poly Nat & 1 poly nuc...bursting at the seams
I have been using a silicome mould - which should be round...it LOOKS round before you touch it...it LOOKS round when you wick it...it LOOKS round before you pour in the wax...BUT when I get the candle out??? It has a 'waist' and a dent...it is driving me POTTY!

Anyone any idea why? Please? While I still have a fraction of my sanity??
 
Is it a split mould and requires holding together? If so it will depend on what you use to hold it together to allow for expansion when hot. String no good soft elastic band perhaps good.
 
This is out of a "split" silicon mould


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I use the bobbles young lasses use to contain ponytails :)

VM.


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Maybe need to build a split sabot to hold the mould firmly and stop any untoward expansion. Is the mould designed to be free standing or supported? If you put the wax into the mould and suspended it in hot water, the water would hopefully support the weight. Leave to cool and if it's all nice and straight, then consider replacing the water with a split box and plaster of paris, as a sabot to hold the mould for future use, giving support to the mould.

Not all moulds are meant to be free standing, some are a part of a system. Look at all the effort that goes into making a mould for fibre glass items.
 
It is a split flocked pillar candle mould - and the dip is inwards rather than out...I use soft almost binnable elastic bands...and is meant to be freestanding. I love the candle VM - I shall hunt down th mould if I get any birthday money next week :) Know I am getting a new P. Polyhive ;)
 
Friend of mine uses same mould and found similar 'leaning tower of beeswax' problem
 
Good! Glad it isn't just me - I shall put it into the 'only if desperate' box' Thanks :)
 
Straight un-patterned candles are best dipped or made in glass moulds.
 

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