Best type of queen cage to use during brood box inspections

[Chris Nother]

Just wondering if any of yo pop the queen in a cage and leave her on top of the frames so that, once you have found her, you can make thorough inspections of the hive without harming her? Is the "hair-roller" cage the best type to use? Any downside of caging her during inspections? Thanks, Chris.

 

[Angry_Mob]

I only cage her if I need to do something with her such as mark her or I intend to put her into another nuc/hive.

I've tried most of them and the best is the crown of thornes that Thornes sell, it's about £7 plus postage direct or a bit more eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163119346209

 

[MikeWade]

I only cage her if I need to do something with her such as mark her or I intend to put her into another nuc/hive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163119346209

Ditto, but I use a one handed queen catcher.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

caging the queen at every inspection is another trick of the bee fiddler who spends way too much time clattering around in the hive, a thorough in depth inspection should only happen occasionally, usually the beginning of the season health/diseae inspection
The rest of the time should be in, check for space, check for food, check for eggs and check for swarm preparations and with practice should take five (or if dawdling) ten minutes.
If you are that concerned about isolating the queen, if you find her, pop her, and the frame she is on into an empty, open nuc.

 

[B+.]

Just wondering if any of yo pop the queen in a cage and leave her on top of the frames so that, once you have found her, you can make thorough inspections of the hive without harming her? Is the "hair-roller" cage the best type to use? Any downside of caging her during inspections? Thanks, Chris.

I use Nicot cages for introducing virgin queens that have emerged in the incubator (marked with numbered plastic disks within a couple of hours of emergence). I leave them on the top bar and invert the roof over them to provide shade then work my way down the row. By the time I cycle around, they're often ready to walk out onto the comb without any harassment from the workers.
I generally don't cage mated/inseminated queens. They're usually pre-occupied with whatever they're doing and are quite safe between two frames of brood (the one she's working on and the next one to it, which will often contain mostly eggs/young larvae).
I would say, the downside of handling the queen all the time is that you risk damaging her, especially if you aren't used to handling queens.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

By the time I cycle around, they're often ready to walk out onto the comb without any harassment from the workers.

I think you need to address the spacing of your colonies if you need a bike to go from hive to hive

 

[Erichalfbee]

Have a spare nuc and pop her and the frame she’s on inside.

 

[gmonag]

My tool box is made with a lift-out inner section, leaving a nuc-sized box with lots of bee space and a cover cloth. I can put up to 5 frames in there to keep them quiet and safe.

 

[Tim.S]

I inspected 10 hives in under 20 minutes the other day, probably a record for me as the girls were doing what they are supposed to be doing for once. I didn't see one solitary queen in that visit, just eggs brood stores etc, no time to cage anyone!
Clench your teeth gently around her thorax or abdomen while doing your inspection, saves money on unnecessary kit!

 

[GuyNir]

Agree caging the Q isn’t needed during normal inspections.

I remove the end dummy board, move bunch of frames together to get access to the middle of the brood nest, lifts 3-4 frames to check for eggs, brood, food and no sign of swarming, then put all back. Takes 5-10min per hive. I run single broods so half this time is removing/putting back supers...

 

[Jeff Buzz]

I always have a Paynes poly nuc with me when I inspect. if I find the queen and I am doing a lot of work on the hive I just pop the frame with her on in the nuc until I am finished.
Also if I find a queen cell I pop them in the nuc along with anymore I find until I can decide what to do with them.

 

[Wingy]

I don’t bother looking for the Q, as others have said I check the bees appear normal & healthy, stores, BIAS & eggs, space for Q to lay & for swarm prep.
I remove the first frame & place it at the side of the hive, check each frame in turn and slide them along as I go. If I see the Q I just place the frame back as normal and carry on. The removed frame goes back in at the other end. Next inspection I work from the opposite side.
If I need to catch the Q for any reason I use a one handed Q catcher

 

[Chris Nother]

Thanks to everyone for your answers and additional advice and insights - very helpful!

 

[Bear]

I only look for the queen if there are no or little eggs or if I’m away to do a split. If I'm doing a split or a demaree I catch her with a crown of thorns so I know what frame she is on and doesn’t end up where she shouldn’t be.