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. It would simply make life unnecessarily difficult to be "odd".
.

I have been "odd" all my life.. And what has it gained? A wife, three mistresses, several houses and a yacht.. What's not to like?

I will now stop dreaming :icon_204-2:
 
Guys
I have been offered a deal
2 x National Hives in cedar
Gabeled Roofs
Crown Boards
varroa floor plus slide outs
Stands with splayed legs
Top bee Spaces
Wired Queen excluders
14x12 Brood Boxes
Metal work on all chambers and Supers

The price on offer is affordable. I take on board the Poly benefits that some of you mention and accept poly could be better but could I insulate cedar hives and get some similar results ?
 
No I have not yet. I'm new to bee keeping and don't intend to order bees till I'm competent. I will go at a slow pace but wish to understand bee habitats.
Later I will try to understand bee behaviour and well being but of course will not keep bees first before understanding hives.
Looking forward to my first club meet.
 
itma is hinting that using a gabled roof has disadvantages because they don't sit flat, so can't be used as a rest for supers etc.

But, if you think it's a good deal then go for it. Your money, your choice.

And afterwards, get some clear crownboards so you can see what's going on inside the hive without opening it to the elements, and maybe organise something to rest the gabled roofs on - or get some flat ones.
 
Hi Rob, gabled rooves aren't the bee all and end all.

You can set the supers on a gabled roof if you use a couple of rocks/bricks to "wedge" the roof level on the ground, first. Or you can "hang" a roof between the rails of a hive stand.

Sorry Rod, (- and itma, for a contrary view), I'm getting a bit ahead of things here, but gabled rooves aren't impossible.

You're to be commended for doing your research first! I guess it depends on the price and how confident you are that bees will be right for you. I would always advise getting your hands in a hive (full of bees!) first, before committing any cash (- and I'm not tight with money!)
 
I'm really learning fast and all to you guys your great.
I sorta want to get my head around habitats, then maybe I will understand bees better. I really would never keep a single bee until I had far more experience and handled and learnt from a experienced bee keeper. I'm a dog keeper and appalled that others buy a dog then try to understand keeping a animal. To me bees are as important. I may ask basic questions but only because I want to really understand bee keeping. I really am appreciative of you guys being patient with me.
 
Find a good mentor, and hive which he uses is the best. After some years you will maybe understand why it was best, and even you change that type of "box" to some other "box"..

At least I did so. Even I am now pulling back slowly from beekeeping with sadeness ( not cause of my fail as beekeeper - some other reasons)..
 
Thanks Mate. 51 hives and your still learning eh. I really appreciate all you view points.
Here's one ! Is it harder to raise kids or bees ?
There's a debate eh ?
I suppose its similar ! Looking back you would not do the same ?
 
Guys
I have been offered a deal
2 x National Hives in cedar
Gabeled Roofs
Crown Boards
varroa floor plus slide outs
Stands with splayed legs
Top bee Spaces
Wired Queen excluders
14x12 Brood Boxes
Metal work on all chambers and Supers

The price on offer is affordable. I take on board the Poly benefits that some of you mention and accept poly could be better but could I insulate cedar hives and get some similar results ?

Yes. I have hive cosies for use in winter
 
Hi Rob, gabled rooves aren't the bee all and end all.

You can set the supers on a gabled roof if you use a couple of rocks/bricks to "wedge" the roof level on the ground, first. Or you can "hang" a roof between the rails of a hive stand.

Sorry Rod, (- and itma, for a contrary view), I'm getting a bit ahead of things here, but gabled rooves aren't impossible.

You're to be commended for doing your research first! I guess it depends on the price and how confident you are that bees will be right for you. I would always advise getting your hands in a hive (full of bees!) first, before committing any cash (- and I'm not tight with money!)

I agree gabled roofs are simple to accommodate. I have two 4" thick breeze blocks set 15" apart which I rest an upturned gabled roof on. Saves bending down so far as well :)
 
I agree gabled roofs are simple to accommodate. I have two 4" thick breeze blocks set 15" apart which I rest an upturned gabled roof on. Saves bending down so far as well :)

I have gabled roofs for Langs. Lay down on the crown in a hollow in grass: work perfectly.. for one super. No use for 2 fully laden ones-- brick job.
 
Rod - if building hives put a top AND bottom bee space in. I know it is contrary to everything you will be advised but for the sake of 9 mil on top and on bottom it means only a little bur comb (boo hoo) and you will have a box that can take anything of similar external dimensions. Also you will squash less bees. It is commonly believed that national can be a bit short on space for a good queen and that is why some nationals keepers make additional space for a queen by putting a super ontop for her. That is why I decided to go commercial. I also went commercial because they can store more winter stores therein. You are right, you can insulate timber hives. Derekm on this forum is the authority. You can also wrap with bubble wrap. Best of luck. Let us know what you end up doing.
 
Rod - if building hives put a top AND bottom bee space in.

:eek:

Little burr comb - looks like a recipe for a total mess IMHO - I think with over a century and a half of tinkering, double bee space would have been the norm by now if it was practical.
 
If a little burr comb is as bad as a beekeepers year gets well then I can live with that. Remember the world was flat at one stage too, making it round was too messy for some.
 
Yes, lift a super and take a frame under with it ,which empties its bees into your wells or wait till you have to lift a brood frame that's stuck to another at the bottom and Queenie is in the middle.
 
My point about the gabled roof was to further emphasise my point that there are things that aren't apparent until you actually try and use them.
Gabled roofs are pretty, but more awkward than flat roofs.

There is - really - no point in getting any hives (and in your mind committing to that format) before learning what they are like (at other people's apiaries).
It is commendable that you want to learn about things before getting actual bees - but you don't need an empty hive to learn.

Hives are just boxes, that should be made to quite precisely standardised dimensions. There are lots of different standards. They are just different standard dimensions.
All are compromises. And some of the compromises are of the cheaper, nastier, but still usable (albeit less pleasantly) variety.
Personally, I'm prepared to sacrifice aesthetics somewhat for a hive the bees do better in, especially if the cost saving allows me to add goodies like framed wire Queen Excluders and see-through polycarbonate coverboards.
Your priorities will be different - when you discover them!
Again, personally I dislike short frame lugs, wiring my own foundation and brood-and-a-half. So I'm very happy with 14x12, but glad to have pals to call on for help when the things need to be shifted full of bees and honey.

Use your intro learning period to discover and understand what the compromises are before you buy.
Incidentally, the after-Christmas beekeeping Sales are a great time to buy your kit for the year ahead.
 
Rod - you cannot beat controversy. As you can see we all have our own beliefs and the bottom line is to get stuck in and just get the bees. Concentrate on the bees and learning how to manage them. Hives are secondary - the best boxes in the world are no good without bees!
 

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