Bee friendly weed killer

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a honey jar full of weedkiller to a gallon of water does everything

I'm not surpised. That is about three times the strength recommended for most applications.

But correct for rhodies and although stronger than recommended for knotweed usually does the job in one spraying instead of two over two seasons, and you can be a bit frugal in the spraying
 
But correct for rhodies and although stronger than recommended for knotweed usually does the job in one spraying instead of two over two seasons, and you can be a bit frugal in the spraying

I rather assumed from the OP that the OP's friend was an allotment holder - so really the minimum amount of weedkiller is probably best. I know Glycophosphate does break down relatively quickly into 'harmless' components but the Soil Association won't allow it for use in Organic farms so .... food for thought.

If it is to be used then a spot treatment rather than a blanket spray may be more appropriate on an allotment ... and care about spray drift as it will kill anything that grows.
 
weedkillers kill weeds.
pesticides kill bees.

he can use any weedkiller he likes (including sweat). it's the bug sprays he/you needs to be concerned about.
Pesticides is an all encompassing term.
Herbicides kill weeds, insecticides kill insects, and fungicides kill fungi, and all are called pesticides.
Roundup, which is a brand name for the chemical glyphosate, is effective at a concentration of three litres in 100 litres spread over one hectare or two and a half acres - so a honey jar in a gallon of water is not a good way of determining strength and use. Use pesticides responsibly like the professionals.
 
so a honey jar in a gallon of water is not a good way of determining strength and use.

250 ml is just short of the shoulder on a honey jar. My mistake (as pointed out by RAB) I should have said for general use that amount should be put to 2 gallons (as per manufacturers instructions which I refer to each time I mix) I use 250ml per gallon when spraying Rhododendrons and Japanese Knotweed - I have managed to eradicare 3 miles of knotweed on our river banks some years ago with this mix, as well as our local burial Ground and some of my land. You need about that mix for rhidies because of the waxy leaves.
 
having trouble with waxy leaves add washing up liquid there is your surfactant to break surface film
 
Whether a weedkiller is "bee friendly" depends on what weeds you're trying to kill with it! Quite a lot of things that are regarded as weeds make good forage for bees.
 
Oh dearie me, the instructions.

Mine says 10l per ha as the maximum dose for rhodies (that is at 360 g/l).

My honey jars are just shy of 300ml a little short of the neck (so shoulder is a bit subjective) and over 300ml to the neck. So need to be a bit more prescriptive about 250ml for those people who cannot make 1:1 sugar syrup or 3.2% oxalic, I feel.

I know Glycophosphate does break down relatively quickly into 'harmless' components

Not so true as you would be led to believe. Soon becomes inactive as a herbicide (so safe to plant other crops), yes, but the metabolites from this initial breakdown are not so quickly eradicated and are not quite as harmless as made out in years-gone-by advertising. Ask the Argentinians about the effects, of glyphosate use, on the unborn child. A revelation since the use of roundup resistant GM crops, which a lot of people now wish had never been introduced by the 'frankenstein' merchants.

Try this link among others:

http://www.i-sis.org.uk/argentinasRoundupHumanTragedy.php

It starts like this: In 2002, two years after the first big harvests of RR soy in the country, residents and doctors in soy producing areas began reporting serious health effects from glyphosate spraying, including high rates of birth defects as well as infertility, stillbirths, miscarriages, and cancers [2]. Environmental effects include killed food crops and livestock and streams strewn with dead fish [2, 3].


Further, excessive use near a waterway is certainly discouraged as glysophate is 'toxic to aquatic`organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment'.

So it may be relatively benign, but is not entirely safe.

add washing up liquid there is your surfactant to break surface film

Beware. Glysophate comes as an acid amine salt and has a pH of around 4-5, so adding washing up liquid, which may contain ammonia, may not be as advisable as at first thought...

Half life in soil is quoted as between 2 and 174 days - that means it could be gone in 20 days or may be present for a very long time. Quite a range, that!

The 'clinic ace' which I use has an additive to break down waxy surfaces to gain entry to the plant; some others have none and some have different methods of improving plant take-up of the active ingredient.

The concentration is 360 g/l but some are available at 450 g/l, so certainly need to read the dilution instructions. Shop-bought ready to use sprays are normally around 10 g/l and are in the same ball park price-wise (volume for volume), but do generally have a delivery system included. That is one very expensive delivery system!

[Would have posted earlier but went to sleep (and missed my wife's phone call at a quarter to midnight).]

RAB
 
Sorry to those who may be offended, but this thread has shown me as a professional user of chemicals just why Joe public should not be allowed any thing stronger than liquid soap. The complete ignorance and contempt for the law witch is set out on the lable is truely unbelievable!!!! And as for killing Japanese knotweed on a river bank? :nono::nono:

Westart
 
There is actually an argument for spraying in the day rather than the evening, dependant on the weather. The biggest uptake by bees is likely to be from drinking droplets off the leaves as water, therefore best to spray at a time when the droplets will dry quickly, whereas in the evening they may stay with the dew. Obviously not so good if the weeds are in flower, but if you're trying to kill persistant perennials, it may be worth eg light strimming to remove flowers, as long as there is sufficient foliage left.
 
weed problems

Our weed problems are Mares Tail & Ground Elder, and theres a lot of it !
I heard a gardening program some years back on how to treat it, the guy said" move house !" trouble is we like it here!. So i'll have to battle on with the round up.

Dave W
 

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