Api-Bioxal

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snoop

House Bee
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
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328
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Location
Cork Ireland
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Langstroth
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poly hives
Api-Bioxal has been approved in Ireland just recently for use for Varroa . Apparently it is a product used in Italy .Todate there isn't much information about it , has anybody used it. How did you go about it , can it be drizzled on like other oxyalic or does it have to be vapourised. Offically Apiguard & Bayvarol are the only 2 products approved here up to now.
 
It is just our familiar oxalic for dribbling. packaged and marketed by chemicals laif. nothing special.
 
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My local association forwarded an E mail from Michael Gleeson advising that the product has been approved for use in Ireland.

The E mail also appears to advocate the routine application of Bayvarol but I am not so sure about the wisdom of that since it has been shown that Varroa develop resistance to it. I have also been informed that Bayvarol has been shown to have an adverse impact upon the fertility of Drones but I haven't gone looking for any research to confirm this.......
 
My local association forwarded an E mail from Michael Gleeson advising that the product has been approved for use in Ireland.

The E mail also appears to advocate the routine application of Bayvarol but I am not so sure about the wisdom of that since it has been shown that Varroa develop resistance to it. I have also been informed that Bayvarol has been shown to have an adverse impact upon the fertility of Drones but I haven't gone looking for any research to confirm this.......

:iagree: Just routinely slapping on pyrethroids is what leads to resistant mites. I think they can have a role where resistance is not too great, but only as part of a mixed approach.
 
My local association forwarded an E mail from Michael Gleeson ...

The E mail also appears to advocate the routine application of Bayvarol but I am not so sure about the wisdom of that since it has been shown that Varroa develop resistance to it. ...
As a newB, I have been directed towards the advice about resistance in the FERA 'Managing Varroa' booklet/pdf.

One of the important bits isn't greatly stressed.
Its very important to remove the strips after the specified treatment time. Otherwise, you are selectively breeding mites with a tolerance for low doses of pyretherin.

Round here, the advice is to reserve it for (the hopefully rare) occasions when a colony really has a major problem.
Seems wise.
 
It is up on the Federation website, when you check the websites of the approved stockists all it says is details to follow when stock is available .
Last year I used Bayvarol , this year I put on Apiguard after the supers were taken off. All queens including 2011 queens went off lay as soon as the Apiguard was put on . The smell off the Apiguard was cruel, I am not surprised they stoped laying . All but one are back laying now . There is a large flow of ivy on both pollen & nectar yet one queen still has not got going again
 
I know it is getting a bit late to go plundering through a brood box but has the none laying queen still got room to lay Snoop? If the colony has back filled the brood nest with necctar she will have nowhere to lay....
 
She has , she has nearly a brood box to lay in approx 6 frames still free in the middle , they have filled another bood box over it with stores and I have a third one put on & they are working that with ivy, rape for cattle feeding which is starting to flower too early and a bit of gorse at the moment . I overwinter mine on double brood boxes , last year 3 of 5 had completely emptied the top box by mid March. Hoping for a warm enough day to have look , Friday looks like it may be ok here. Talking to some other beekeepers last night , 2 others have similar story to tell , it must have been the mild weather in Sept
 
"Just routinely slapping on pyrethroids is what leads to resistant mites. I think they can have a role where resistance is not too great, but only as part of a mixed approach."

:iagree:

For those not of an organic/biodynamic bent there is a role for pyrethroids but only every 3-4 years.
resistance is "expensive" for the mite so is lost once selective pressure (ie treatment) is removed but quickly reappears after treatment restarted. hence using a hit and run approach rather than regular.
 
I agree with the Doc, but the problem is that if all use them every three years, it needs to be the same year or the resistant mites will be already 'next door, last year' before you use it, so probably in your hives, too.

There are still those around who continue to use these strips on a regular basis. I would only recommend their use as an emergency treatment, not within a regular cycle as the efficacy could easily be only 50%, or even less.

But then, you might wonder how beekeepers get into an 'emergency' situation, after twenty years of the mite and it's control - and that is just in the UK!

I personally would not, in the normal run of the season, use the pyrethroids - there are better ways - always - with less 'icide' wax contamination, mite resistance, etc.

RAB
 
"Just routinely slapping on pyrethroids is what leads to resistant mites."

A specific problem leading to increased numbers of resistant mites - according to both my local SBI and my tutor - is the misguided attitude of "getting moneys-worth" out of the strips by leaving them in the hive for longer than the instructions specify.
The strips become weaker as time passes and the chemical release slows before it runs out.
When it becomes too weak to kill, it is actually selectively breeding more of the more-resistant mites.

Their advice to me was unqualified - don't use routinely, use only rarely when faced with a really serious infestation, and make absolutely certain to remove the strips promptly when time's up.
They felt that the business of some users leaving the strips in the hive for too long was a major factor in building resistance in the mite population.
And that the less they are used generally, the more effective they can be when they are required.

They also quoted "4 years" as being about the time for resistance to be effectively lost.

It seems that statements like "Bayvarol and Apistan will never work again, once resistance becomes established in an area" http://www.cheshire-bka.co.uk/News/VarroaResearch.php are not quite true.

The hope appears to be to keep the level of resistant mites down to a tolerable level, like Varroa itself, rather than expecting to eliminate the problem entirely.
 
so if resistance clears after 4 years and i decide to obey the laws in ireland i still need to find one more treatment to make a routine. and thats assuming that relying solely on oxylic for one year will work.
the other legal option is to use happy guard all the time and oxylic and bavarol as helpers.


seems a small arsnel to go to war with.
 
so if resistance clears after 4 years and i decide to obey the laws in ireland i still need to find one more treatment to make a routine. and thats assuming that relying solely on oxylic for one year will work.
the other legal option is to use happy guard all the time and oxylic and bavarol as helpers.


seems a small arsnel to go to war with.

I seem to be arriving at a routine of OA in the winter, Apiguard (well, HM's thymol mix) in August/Sept, with Apivar (like bayvarol) as a fall-back.
 

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