Varroa

[sbisme]

Hi Gang need some advice please, first winter for me and my bees, I hived a Nucleus back in July but it was soon clear that there was a large amount of Varroa as I had bees with DWV within two weeks of collecting them, I treated with Appiguard early Aug and checked the natural drop in Sep which was low around 3 in 24hrs.

So here is my problem I now have a high count again around 100 in 48hrs bees are flying today and seem happy with no signs of DWV, my question is would you treat with OA ASAP or am I best to give it 3 - 4 week and hope I catch the spell when the queen stops laying?

Thanks in advance.

 

[MuswellMetro]

i checked about 10% of my colonies last week on a day temp was above 12c, I just parted trhe brood and looked at the two main brood frames. All were broodless

i will be treating all my colonies with oxalic in the next few days

Your alternative would be to use apiguard all winter, by using half a tray and removing and replacing the half trays every four weeks through winter, a drop of 100 in 48hrs is high this time of year

 

[pargyle]

Hi Gang need some advice please, first winter for me and my bees, I hived a Nucleus back in July but it was soon clear that there was a large amount of Varroa as I had bees with DWV within two weeks of collecting them, I treated with Appiguard early Aug and checked the natural drop in Sep which was low around 3 in 24hrs.

So here is my problem I now have a high count again around 100 in 48hrs bees are flying today and seem happy with no signs of DWV, my question is would you treat with OA ASAP or am I best to give it 3 - 4 week and hope I catch the spell when the queen stops laying?

Thanks in advance.

See if someone in your association could do an OA Sublimation with you ... probably the most effective and least invasive option you have available .. or if you are handy make a Vapouriser of your own like some of the ones being discussed on another current thread and do it yourself.....

As a beginner (unlike MM above) I wouldn't be poking around in the hive at this time of the year ... OA Sublimation does not need the hive opening.

 

[sbisme]

Thanks for the replys

 

[itma]

I'd suggest trickling Oxalic syrup soonish.


I'd also say "Don't Panic!"
The major effect of varroa is by its harm to brood. Not much brood (if any) at this point. So less immediate risk than you might at first expect.
Still needs dealing with though.
But this late, it is more a matter of getting the best possible start to next season.
Autumn treatment is about getting healthy brood to grow into healthy "winter bees" which need to survive the long winter and still be effective foragers when spring arrives.


Academics at LASI advise sublimation, because it is fractionally more effective than trickling. BUT that difference ONLY shows up when the colony treated is COMPLETELY broodless (the academics went in and culled the brood - not to be advised for a beginner.)
There is a body of opinion on the forum in favour of repeated sublimation during winter. Again, this isn't really a beginner thing.
Sublimation requires proper serious personal protection - and consideration for who might be down-wind. Whereas trickling requires fresh syrup (it doesn't store) and a pair of ordinary rubber gloves.

 

[MuswellMetro]

I'd suggest trickling Oxalic syrup soonish.


I'd also say "Don't Panic!"
###############
Sublimation requires proper serious personal protection - and consideration for who might be down-wind. Whereas trickling requires fresh syrup (it doesn't store) and a pair of ordinary rubber gloves.

Once i have put on my mask ,then the white all in one suit and blue vinyl gloves most people down wind have run away

 

[sbisme]

I'd suggest trickling Oxalic syrup soonish.


I'd also say "Don't Panic!"
The major effect of varroa is by its harm to brood. Not much brood (if any) at this point. So less immediate risk than you might at first expect.
Still needs dealing with though.
But this late, it is more a matter of getting the best possible start to next season.
Autumn treatment is about getting healthy brood to grow into healthy "winter bees" which need to survive the long winter and still be effective foragers when spring arrives.


Academics at LASI advise sublimation, because it is fractionally more effective than trickling. BUT that difference ONLY shows up when the colony treated is COMPLETELY broodless (the academics went in and culled the brood - not to be advised for a beginner.)
There is a body of opinion on the forum in favour of repeated sublimation during winter. Again, this isn't really a beginner thing.
Sublimation requires proper serious personal protection - and consideration for who might be down-wind. Whereas trickling requires fresh syrup (it doesn't store) and a pair of ordinary rubber gloves.

Panic was my first thought but now looking at you explanation it makes sence, the bees went into winter stong or a lot stronger than they were in Aug, so hopefully not much if any brood now will mean when I OA it will kill them off and a good start for next year,
Thanks for your advise.

 

[Dishmop]

Once i have put on my mask ,then the white all in one suit and blue vinyl gloves most people down wind have run away

So would I if I was on the same bus..

 

[REDWOOD]

Once i have put on my mask ,then the white all in one suit and blue vinyl gloves most people down wind have run away

I'm sure there's a law about wearing that in public

 

[beeno]

Hi all,
Thanks MM for giving me a heads up on broodlessness as mine needs OA treatment soonest! OA on three nucs and two colonies today all broodless, strong and with plenty of stores. Two colonies and the swarm to go, but need more OA. However, these guys may not be broodless yet as they get more sunshine and were brooding just over three weeks ago.
I am seeking to OA at the earliest possible opportunity when broodless, as I have large drops despite treating with Thymol on all hives and Maqs on one. I am concerned that the phoretic mites will put my healthy winter bees out of action?
There are not two seasons the same!