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BMH

Drone Bee
Joined
Apr 8, 2015
Messages
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Hive Type
National
If you were designing a hive from scratch and there was no other hives in existence, what would it look like? What features are important? What would you definitely not include? What material would you use?
 
So there is no other way a Poly Langstroth could be improved upon?

What are they key details that you like about that? TBS? One size of box?

Im trying to formulate some ideas for designing a hive from scratch and what features are important to people
 
Poly Lang.
Underfloor entrance with option for solid floor
Top space with decent hard runners
Warm way
NO LIP
Deep roof
 
Interesting you say about the NO LIP. I assume this is solely for compatibility with other kit? Or crushing bees?
 
So there is no other way a Poly Langstroth could be improved upon?

What are they key details that you like about that? TBS? One size of box?

Im trying to formulate some ideas for designing a hive from scratch and what features are important to people
Not another variant PLEASE 😳
 
Not another variant PLEASE 😳

It's hypothetical. Don't think I could stretch to the cost of a mould for an entrance reducer, let alone a hive.

Variants can also go backwards to make things simpler, more cost effective etc. I am big believer in continuous improvement of design. Not tinkering for sake of it.
 
Poly Lang.
Underfloor entrance with option for solid floor
Top space with decent hard runners
Warm way
NO LIP
Deep roof


I agree but "Warm Way"??? My thinking says not possible but wdik?
 
I think the flexibility of the national to operate warm/cold is one of the very few benefits of the design.

Some people like warm/cold way for reasons to do with air flow. I much prefer warm way as I like to work from behind the hive and it helps me avoid twisting.

Not sure the bees are too fussedAttach files
 
Crushing bees
You can’t slide boxes with a lip together .......at least I can’t.
Would TBS not resolve the majority of issues of crushing bees with rebated boxes? BBS with rebates could lead to crushing but it seems to work ok on nuc designs. Definitely helps to stop any slippage of boxes and water ingress.
 
I agree but "Warm Way"??? My thinking says not possible but wdik?
You put the entrance on the 'long' side. TBH, there is no difference between warm and cold way -either with solid floors or OMF.
If cat I believe some misguided souls swap their hives round each spring and autumn to be warm way in the winter and cold way summer! :icon_204-2:
Would TBS not resolve the majority of issues of crushing bees with rebated boxes?
I think top beespace/bottom beespace is a slight red herring and makes no difference to the hobbyist beekeeper (doesn't make much for the bee farmer except negating the need for a crownboard.)
Whether you have BBS or TBS, there is a beespace between the top and bottom of the frames regardless.
 
My perfect hive would have perfect native bees and a tap at the back to drain off the honey.... at least 50kg per colony
Ahh a Flow Hive
 
Would TBS not resolve the majority of issues of crushing bees with rebated boxes? BBS with rebates could lead to crushing but it seems to work ok on nuc designs. Definitely helps to stop any slippage of boxes and water ingress.
Well the paradise boxes are nearly there then. I would just put them on a wooden floor with an under floor entrance made to work the hive warm way.
 
You put the entrance on the 'long' side. TBH, there is no difference between warm and cold way -either with solid floors or OMF.
If cat I believe some misguided souls swap their hives round each spring and autumn to be warm way in the winter and cold way summer! :icon_204-2:

I think top beespace/bottom beespace is a slight red herring and makes no difference to the hobbyist beekeeper (doesn't make much for the bee farmer except negating the need for a crownboard.)
Whether you have BBS or TBS, there is a beespace between the top and bottom of the frames regardless.

Yes it was just in relation to the crushing bees along the rebate. A BBS hive would have a rebate that started at the top of the box, maybe 10mm away from the top of the frames. A TBS hive with a rebate would effectively have a beespace, plus a rebate so maybe a good 18mm for the bees to have to climb up and reach the 'crush zone'. I dont think it makes a massive difference and certainly not for a hobby beekeeper.

Fully agree on cold/way warm way. Its personal preference for the beekeeper. I use warm way on most but if I migrate and have 4 to a pallet, I can only approach them from the side but dont switch the BB so end up on the cold way.
 
Quality monterey cypress Langstroth boxes 22mm thick, wax dipped and painted white. 144 mm high with rebated hand holds on the 4 sides. Frames 136mm radiata pine.
Migratory lid with dense poly inside cover. White colorbond steel cladding on cover.
Solid floor made from weathertex...10mm thick. 7, 8 or 9mm hardwood risers with floor extending a couple of cm's in front of boxes... with full width entrance. Cleats 45x45 hardwood. All wrapped in galvanised steel emlock strap. What a hive :giggle:
 
Quality monterey cypress Langstroth boxes 22mm thick, wax dipped and painted white. 144 mm high with rebated hand holds on the 4 sides. Frames 136mm radiata pine.
Migratory lid with dense poly inside cover. White colorbond steel cladding on cover.
Solid floor made from weathertex...10mm thick. 7, 8 or 9mm hardwood risers with floor extending a couple of cm's in front of boxes... with full width entrance. Cleats 45x45 hardwood. All wrapped in galvanised steel emlock strap. What a hive :giggle:
Oh,,, so you've given it some thought then....;)
I cant even decide what I want for supper..................
 

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