Table saw

[Dishmop]

I have a really cheap table saw.... God they are dangerous things. Please be careful, it can shoot a piece of wood across the worhop at Mach 2 !!!

one way of geting rid of neighbours.

 

[enrico]

Tried it ..... Yep you're right, they're dead now!!!! Only joking don't call the police! , the problem is that it is so cheap that if you don't bolt it to a table and hang on to the wood it can shoot the saw across the room instead.
Must get a decent one. I inherited the cheap one!
E

 

[AnotherNewBee]

Tried it ..... Yep you're right, they're dead now!!!! Only joking don't call the police! , the problem is that it is so cheap that if you don't bolt it to a table and hang on to the wood it can shoot the saw across the room instead.
Must get a decent one. I inherited the cheap one!
E

Mine's the same. It's a Wolfcraft 6123. I bought it to hang a router underneath it, but it came with a saw as well (ex-eBay). The top is fine but the legs appear to be close to suffering from rickets.

The top will get a nice new pair of foldable legs (or a cabinet on wheels). The router will get a home-made table. That's the plan, anyway, if it ever stops raining long enough for me to do anything in my workshop (which doubles as a back yard).

 

[protheroe]

Mine's the same. It's a Wolfcraft 6123. I bought it to hang a router underneath it, but it came with a saw as well (ex-eBay). The top is fine but the legs appear to be close to suffering from rickets.

The top will get a nice new pair of foldable legs (or a cabinet on wheels). The router will get a home-made table. That's the plan, anyway, if it ever stops raining long enough for me to do anything in my workshop (which doubles as a back yard).

I use the same table,wobbly legs and murder to get the guide bar straight,i spend more time measuring the guide bar width than sawing the wood and then on top of that ,the damn bar moves out of place.I really need to invest in a proper one.

 

[Aggravated]

Hi

This kind of saw would seem to be slightly above average, the main points to look at are the guards for the blade and the fence. The fence should be easy to adjust in small increments, and be parallel to the blade without keep having to check it. The bigger the motor the better, it needs to keep going at the correct speed otherwise the fan in it will not cool the windings adequately and will eventually burn out if abused .
hope this helps

 

[Beaca]

Hi all

i'm thinking of investing in a Ryobi ETS1825 254mm (10") Folding Table Saw - has anyone got one/ had experience of one?

many thanks!

Hi all.

I thought my first post would involve asking a question rather than answering but here goes.

I have owned one of these table saws for seven years and it has served me well. I was renovating an old farmhouse when I bought it -so for its first two years it was used a lot and has proved durable and reliable.

It does have its limitations of course.Principally-
Mitre gauge is not up to much- Saw has non standard mitre slots so not a lot can be done except hit the bar with a hammer to widen it-thereby removing slop. You ain't ever doing cross cuts for fine joinery on this saw but its close enough for most jobs with a bit of fettling.

Blade has a tendancy to move from its set angle.You need to check it constantly.


The fence is surprisingly good however-The foldaway thing is nice too.

Overall I think this is a great value saw if you get it at the right price and take a bit of time to tune it up.Kickback danger is reduced by setting up your saw properly.
ww.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/delta/ds-038free.pdf (i can't post links so you have to copy and paste and add a "w".)

.Like all cheap saws (and most expensive ones)it comes with a rubbish blade and is a lot better with a half decent aftermarket one.

Hope this helps with your decision.

 

[The Apprentices]

I have a really cheap table saw.... God they are dangerous things. Please be careful, it can shoot a piece of wood across the worhop at Mach 2 !!!

This tends to happen when your cutting the part off between the fence and the blade, try doing it the other way round so the loose piece comes off on the outside of the blade not between the fence and the blade.

 

[Gower]

hi all, and thanks very much for all your help and advice. in the end, i lost the saw i was bidding on through e###, but i was lucky to get a Clarke 10" saw last week for £50. i dont think its a particularly high spec and leaves a little to bew desired in terms of accuracy, but it meets my needs so far. i knocked up a double hive stand this afternoon and i'm happy with the result.

thanks again.

 

[oliver90owner]

If it has a steel toothed blade, I would replace it with a suitable TCT version. Won't improve the grotty fence arrangement but will cut sooo much better.

It is like the one I use, I would think. Needed a table extension, and decent fence, but does the job. Sometimes saves me the bother of setting up my radial or chop saw, but nearly always the inferior choice, but has it's uses.

 

[user 6228]

hi all, and thanks very much for all your help and advice. in the end, i lost the saw i was bidding on through e###, but i was lucky to get a Clarke 10" saw last week for £50. i dont think its a particularly high spec and leaves a little to bew desired in terms of accuracy, but it meets my needs so far. i knocked up a double hive stand this afternoon and i'm happy with the result.

thanks again.

I have one of those, you can do useful work, becareful because the small table can make working large sheets interesting. But as rab says buy a tct blade. I bought that one at an auction for £25 the new blade cost £30 did quite a bit with it. Though it was more to do the things the chopsaw couldn't.

The metabo site saw is much much better but thats a different kettle of fish.

 

[Gower]

can anyone recommend a 10" tct blade - presumably they are universal and will fit most saw makes? For general purpose use is there a recommended number of teeth the blade should have. excuse my ignorance but i'm only just getting started on the DIY side of things!

cheers.

 

[AnotherNewBee]

Buying Guide - Circular and Mitre Saw Blades

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/buying-guide-circular-and-mitre-saw-blades-a1018

I'm not endorsing this company. It just seems to have a reasonable buying guide. You'll find plenty more on the Internet.

 

[oliver90owner]

Surprise,surprise. They happen to be on offer at Lidl at this present time. No idea of the quality (certainly not strikingly good) but 3 blades for a tenner(?) doesn't hurt too much!

Possibly the wrong arbor size, but might be worth a try. Likely cost more than that to get one blade resharpened.

RAB

 

[Gower]

cheers Rab, i'll get along to my nearest store sharpish!

 

[oliver90owner]

OOPS! Think about it first. Sorry, but just noticed they are 200mm, not 250mm. They may still be fair value as you may be able to use them for thinner sections, just not sure without checking how deep they could actually cut when fitted to the saw. Also they are rated at up to 7000rpm and the saw is direct drive at much less than that, so relatively slow peripheral cutting speed.

I was going to get a set but am now having a rethink

RAB

 

[The Apprentices]

OOPS! Think about it first. Sorry, but just noticed they are 200mm, not 250mm. They may still be fair value as you may be able to use them for thinner sections, just not sure without checking how deep they could actually cut when fitted to the saw. Also they are rated at up to 7000rpm and the saw is direct drive at much less than that, so relatively slow peripheral cutting speed.

I was going to get a set but am now having a rethink

RAB

There are good quality blades to be found from Trend stable, I use their 1/8" blades.
If the blades are 200.00mm your not going to get 200 only what space lies beneath the crown gaurd.
I would recommend the tinner kerf which gives more cutting power and less drag and less waste.

There are conversion spacers for different sized arbours.

 

[merylvingien]

I would never buy a new pressed steel table saw and even worse a aluminium arbor table saw like the ones recommended here.
Get yourself onto ebay and buy an ex industrial wadkins for a couple of hundred quid, swop the motor out for a single phase and bobs your uncle.
You can make use of all the various extras that you can purchase such as tenoning jigs, mitre gauges and even make your own jigs for various projects.

 

[The Apprentices]

I would never buy a new pressed steel table saw and even worse a aluminium arbor table saw like the ones recommended here.
Get yourself onto ebay and buy an ex industrial wadkins for a couple of hundred quid, swop the motor out for a single phase and bobs your uncle.
You can make use of all the various extras that you can purchase such as tenoning jigs, mitre gauges and even make your own jigs for various projects.

Two lines of thought here.

First is the old Wadkin units are indeed robust but sadly don't come up to spec for the new safety legislations of stopping in less than ten seconds, Ok if your a sole user but not for others to use in a shop setting, also not everybody has the ability to modernise or refit the changes into an old machine, which also comes at a cost.

However there are some really good fabricated older brands to look out for, Robinson, Wilson and the very best up to date names like Felder who also do a cheaper range, also Rojex and semi fabricated units by Minimax which are superbly made.

Horses for courses.

I agree about the tin pan alley gear like Sheppach, Jet and Axminster not made to last, not very accurate.

If I was starting out again from scratch I would definately take a serious look at the turn over Makita table/mitre unit very well made indeed, compact and very acurate.

 

[user 6228]

I would never buy a new pressed steel table saw and even worse a aluminium arbor table saw like the ones recommended here.
Get yourself onto ebay and buy an ex industrial wadkins for a couple of hundred quid, swop the motor out for a single phase and bobs your uncle.
You can make use of all the various extras that you can purchase such as tenoning jigs, mitre gauges and even make your own jigs for various projects.

I was looking for a cast iron one but it had to be moveable that why I went for
Metabo Table saw TKHS 315 . Pressed steel yes, but very heavy pressed steel. This is 75Kg. Even with the wheels on one end its a heavy mother. I saw the makita in the flesh along side this and took this. 315mm blade because i'm cutting 50mm at 45 deg.

 

[peteinwilts]

I bought a table saw for £150 from screwfix for a few light dutys....

45 complete hives, many supers 14 NUC boxs later it is going well.

I had a problem in the early days where too much sawdust would not go through the grill on the bottom and collected very quickly.
The sawdust interfered with the saw and the extraction impellor broke which quickly burnt out the motor of the saw.
this happened twice.

I cut a hole in the bottom of the tablesaw base to let the sawdust out and has been going strong since.