Store or bottle rape honey?

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BeeFarmer

House Bee
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Hello,

I'm looking for some advice. I've taken my second lot of rape honey this weekend, 26lbs in all. The first lot I had I bottled straight away and gave it to friends, etc. When it went hard we simply warmed it a little and continued to use it. My jars have just arrived and I've currently got my 26lbs in a 30lb honey bucket but before I do anything with it I was wondering if folk simply bottle it and add a granulation label or if they let it set and cream it before bottling? I'm guessing it might just be horse for courses but if I'm going to sell a little I'd rather it be upto a reasonably presentable standard.
 
M<ost people make soft-set or creamed- there's a thread on it here.
 
Hello,

I'm guessing it might just be horse for courses but if I'm going to sell a little I'd rather it be upto a reasonably presentable standard.

Horses for courses it is.
I don't cream mine. It sells well as it is to repeat customers who love it.
Cazza
 
I much prefer a creamed product. Personal choice. There's a very good article on this subject in BBKA news No: 221 Feb 2014.
It's a must read for me. Answers all the questions.
 
I think I might have a copy of the Feb BBKA news, I'll have a look around. It looks like I'm going to be making myself a warming cabinet. I might bottle a little to keep people supplied in the meantime.
 
I'll have to buy myself a couple of jars of creamed honey though to seed mine as I'm just starting out and all I have is some hard OSR honey to start it with.
 
I'll have to buy myself a couple of jars of creamed honey though to seed mine as I'm just starting out and all I have is some hard OSR honey to start it with.

I bought a jar of runny honey to seed my original batch and never needed to use it!!!!

I found that just heating and stirring (in my case the corkscrew style drill attachment) and then jaring / setting works fine without the need for seeding!
 
How long did it last before crystallising? or didn't it at all? The BBKA article mentions using a microwave and breaking the chain of crystals by stirring.
 
I found that just heating and stirring (in my case the corkscrew style drill attachment) and then jaring / setting works fine without the need for seeding!

I might be lucky then. I guess that the worse that can happen is that I warm the honey and after all my stirring, etc. it just sets again.
 
How long did it last before crystallising? or didn't it at all? The BBKA article mentions using a microwave and breaking the chain of crystals by stirring.

If that is a question to me then soft set honey is 'crystallised' that is the whole point. Once set, 'soft set' (the clue is in the name) remains the same spreadable consistency for a long time.

Warming and stirring to break the large crystals down is important and then so is the setting process.

My soft set won Best exhibit in the whole Honey show last year, so I must be doing something right!
 
Right, I've got myself an old fridge, I've hooked up a decent fan heater and tested it. I can keep a constant temperature of my choosing between 30 and 40 degrees. So my next question is this, for a creamed honey how long should I warm 26lbs for? I've been reading up and some people say 30 degrees for 2 days others say 40 degrees for 2 days but never exceed 44 degrees. Any help would be greatly appreciated until I can get my head around the different requirements for different temperatures, etc.
 
Honey may be packed for use or sale either as crystallized, or 'set' honey, or as clear honey, and these varieties will require different warming temperatures to prepare them for bottling. A fairly low temperature of 32°C (90°F) applied for 2-5 days will warm crystallized honey through with very little melting of the crystals but will bring it to a consistency which will allow it to be easily and quickly bottled using the normal tap or honey gate in a small tank. The time suggested above is for honey stored in 28 lb. lots, and will have to be increased for larger volumes and decreased for smaller ones. The variation in time is also dependent upon the hardness of the honey, which will itself depend upon its origin. A good white clover honey can seem to be almost as hard as glass, and will still be solid at the end of 4 days warming. It is, however, warm throughout and can be stirred to break up the crystals. Once this has been done it will flow readily. Other honeys such as red clover, crucifer and tree honey will only take 3 days, and will not usually need stirring. Honeydew and some dark honeys will be ready in 2 days. The beekeeper has to get to know the honeys of his area and treat them accordingly, putting the hard ones in to warm before the soft ones if he is producing a blend.
This method is dependent upon having honey which has crystallized with an acceptable texture when it first sets. If the beekeeper has honey which is coarse, and of a gravel-like texture, this can be brought right back to a fluid using the temperature suggested for clear honey, and then seeded with some honey of the right texture. If the beekeeper studies his honey and sees coarse honey turning up regularly, and can identify the source, this should be 'seeded' when it is taken from the settling tank into the cans for storage. In this way he can avoid coarse honey and the problems it may cause at bottling time.
For the production of clear honey the crystallized crop has to be rendered back to fluid. This is done by heating to 52°C (125°F) for 2 days. Again adjustment will be needed for the size of storage container and hardness of the honey. When the honey is taken from the warming cabinet it can be strained very easily and quickly through a nylon cloth to remove from settled honey the last few bits of wax and aggregated lumps of pollen that otherwise give the final honey a cloudy appearance instead of a bright sparkle. A temperature of 52°C will still leave a considerable number of crystals small enough to get through the straining cloth, so that the honey will rapidly recrystallize, and there would hardly be time to get it to the shops and sell it before it was half set again. To avoid this, it should be heated again after bottling, this time to 62°C (145°F) for an hour in a waterbath. This heating is done with the lids on and screwed down; there is no danger of the bottles bursting, as the lids are not totally airtight. This process will give a shelf life of about 6-9 months before the honey begins to regranulate.
 
Thank you, I have already read page 256 of Hooper. I've also read that heating honey past 44 degrees for a prolonged period of time will reduce the flavour and yet it appears that Hooper suggests using a temperature well past this to first produce a clear honey. What I am trying to figure out is how long people leave it themselves when dealing with a volume such as 26lbs as many folk must use 30lb honey buckets. Hooper appears to use a method which involves a lot of messing around whilst some folk appear to simply heat for a said period of time and then either seed the honey or just stir everything up like YorkshireBees did.
 
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