Roof design? Can we have a ponder

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I costed fibreglass some years ago Pete and it was slightly more expensive than wood, although I could see it being very waterproof and deep.

PH
 
I costed fibreglass some years ago Pete and it was slightly more expensive than wood, although I could see it being very waterproof and deep.
PH

I think it could be a good idea,easy to make several moulds which could be used to produce a lot of roofs,they could also be variable depth within one standard deep mould design,choice of colours,and the woodpecker proof bit, as opposed to using wood,plus keeping the side walls of wooden hives completely dry. Obviously purchase the materials in bulk to reduce cost,even if slightly more expensive, definately worth looking into.
 
My pricing was on a cost of five I think so it would be that much more inexpensive if doing say 100.

PH
 
I have a friend locally who is in the fibreglassing buisness,will find out how much bulk materials would cost,enough to make say 200 roofs for a start.
 
I don't thing fiberglass would be an ideal material for winter use, it is too fragile when cold. Also a pain to work, more so then wood.

Keep us posted on how it goes.
 
I don't thing fiberglass would be an ideal material for winter use, it is too fragile when cold. Also a pain to work, more so then wood.
Keep us posted on how it goes.

Will do SB, need to make some prototypes first and test them,depends on the construction regards strength i would think,boats seem to do pretty well made from grp.
 
Uk generally has far higher rainfall, levels of air pollution, and a tendency to higher humidity than in the sub tropical Mediterranean.
That is in the UK it is predominately a cool damp maritime and very changeable weather system.

Deeper insulated roofs may be the way to go in the UK.... obviously going to be different for other climates!

Some of us are still in drought condition over here in the Eastern half of the country :biggrinjester:
 
Will do SB, need to make some prototypes first and test them,depends on the construction regards strength i would think,boats seem to do pretty well made from grp.

Kevlar or carbon would be the way to go... if going down that route
GRP... heavy, cracks easily...
my enduro bike panels are now all carbon or kevlar but do go through it a bit!!

Alarm system bell cases are made from an injected pollycarbonate, as are my yachts hatch covers... very tough. light and translucent.

:leaving:
 
So where is our nearest supplier of cheap Kevlar for making hive roofs then Hopit.

Will give the grp a go i think,not noticed any boats down porlock wier that have cracked up and fallen apart in that stony harbour.
 
my thought was something in EPS made flatpack like the MB hives - each side moulded with varroa type mesh on outside, same over roof (which would be thicker poly). front could have integral mouseguard at bottom edge.

obviously need to initially come in 4 standard depths - nat, 14x12, brood and half and double brood.

The above suggestion has been put to the design student at loughborough who posted on here - if enough interest it might spur them on (and presume they have the capability to actually produce prototypes).
 
Are we suddenly discussing floors or am I missing something here?

PH
 
A mouse guard for the roof? Err... why?

If the roof is sitting right where is a mouse to get in?

Sorry canna visualise this one.

BTW... "EPS" Epoxy something?

PH
 
have another coffee PH (or should that be "EPS Hive").

i'll have another go:

snug fitting FULL DEPTH poly box affair that slides down over whole hive. flat pack (ie 4 sides and thicker roof). jointed like MB hives. all outer surfaces armoured with mesh. integral mouse guard at bottom edge of front.

could even design them so top was two layers - lower/inner with fondant pocket (plus infill piece) integral to the structure plus upper solid piece that clips on securely.
 
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New Design/concept of a roof.

First consider the requirements.

Weather protection, woodpecker protection, extra space for insulation, standing supers on the upturned item in the season, 'repairability', longevity in service, weight, ease of use, etc.

Consider storage if used only in the winter

Consider the pros and cons cf the present roof type offered.

Some good ideas are coming through but not yet 'really joined-up thinking' of the overall requirements, I feel.

I am quite happy with my last batch of home-made roofs.

Similar to the historical design but far lighter than most commercial offerings, deep enough for at least 50mm EPS, strong enough (my next set would have had a slightly more robust internal roof sheet, adding a considerable percentage to the weight) for standing several supers on it in season.

'Pecker protection is still a separate issue, in my book. Maintains the KISS princple, as many applications will be slightly different (amount of insulation, risk of 'pecker damage) and built in mouse guards require a too specific location on the hive and roof. A design needs developing carefully taking into account all the pros and cons.

I consider this thread a brainstorming platform and little else, thus far. So keep the ideas rolling in. Most will be flawed with respect to some aspect or another but there may be some ideas that can be developed further.

RAB
 
Here is your answer:http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman/cdbhive.html

Why reinvent the wheel?? ;)

I tend to use leftover and salvaged timber for my hive roofs and I make them as deep as i can. My decision to make deep roofs was based on a desire to give the BB a little extra protection from the wind and driven rain over the Winter and I was delighted to find that the CDB design was created to do the same thing with the extra protection being provided by the upper lift when it is inverted for the winter. I'm not advocating that people switch to CDB hives (I agree there are too many hive types in GB and Ireland) but I do think that deep roofs are beneficial, particularly if you have timber hives. Following a conversation with me, another beekeeper has just had about 15 eight inch deep roofs made for his Nationals. With insulation in the top they, sit down nicely over the BB. Another Beekeeper of my acquaintance has fibre-glassed a number of deep roofs. The matting and resin was applied directly onto the timber and ply roofs and they are nice to work with as they are lighter than a roof with a 'tin' top. If you stop the fibre glass just shy of the bottom of the roof, there is less of a risk that you will damage the surface integrity when you set it on the ground.

Wood peckers are not an issue here in Northern Ireland but the wind and wet are.
 
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So what does EPS stand for? Hmm googled it and amongst some odd offerings got expanded poly... now this is getting silly why make a poly roof for a wooden hive? If you are going that route then surely you would just go poly and get the best of it. ?

PH
 
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It is actually as in the winter the poly roof is far preferable to a wooden one.

PH
 

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