Roof Depth?

[markylaird]

making 10 national roofs today any idea what depth i should make them. I have 75mm x 20mm lots of this acquired free but if its not deep enough im going to b&q?

 

[VEG]

they normally come in 4 or 6 inch, but as long as it keeps the rain out then I can see no prob with your 3 inch.

 

[drstitson]

i'd keep the 75mm timber to make ekes to fill with 1x50mm + 1x25mm kingspan blocks for next winter.

 

[VEG]

Thats if you use roof insulation.

 

[drstitson]

"Thats if you use roof insulation."

HERESY!!!!!! Burn him!


Instead of my suggested ekes you could always cut the timber down into a lifetime supply of matchsticks to please VEG and the BBKA.

i estimate that enough 75x20 for 10 roofs (roughly 20m) would provide 128,000 off 37.5x2.5x2.5mm matchsticks!!!!

 

[VEG]

I dont use insulation and would make the roofs out of the 3 inch timber rather than go out and buy more. Or alternatively rip some of the timber down to inch strips to attach to the 3 inch.

 

[markylaird]

should i put roof ventilation in?

 

[VEG]

All the hives I have seen have roof vents in them.

 

[drstitson]

"All the hives I have seen have roof vents in them."

In the UK.

Elsewhere they don't bother.

Seriously - VEG raises an option that i briefly thought of BUT rather than make 4 inch roofs why not biscuit together 2 strips of 3" to give decent depth 6" roofs. Much less likely to get blow off plus allow plenty of overlap even if you heretically add top insulation (either into the roof itself or on the crownboard).

Plus more overlap is better as it gives a less direct route for air to escape via the matchstick trick!!!! (or for draughts to get in the same way).

 

[victor meldrew]

"All the hives I have seen have roof vents in them."

In the UK.

Elsewhere they don't bother.

Seriously - VEG raises an option that i briefly thought of BUT rather than make 4 inch roofs why not biscuit together 2 strips of 3" to give decent depth 6" roofs. Much less likely to get blow off plus allow plenty of overlap even if you heretically add top insulation (either into the roof itself or on the crownboard).

Plus more overlap is better as it gives a less direct route for air to escape via the matchstick trick!!!! (or for draughts to get in the same way).

6" gives you the option of using ekes and or insulation without compromising the weather proof aspect of hive design . Even a 4" roofs inner frame, reduces inner side 'dim' to 3" , add an eke for feeding purposes ,2" and your roof edge leaves the joint between eke and crown board exposed to driving wind and rain . Should you use a smaller eke (and it still be useful),capillary action will still ensure a crown board swimming in water ?
VM

 

[drstitson]

i want roofs that cover all the potential permutations of upper storey fiddling eg ekes, insulation, matchsticks etc.

 

[susbees]

6" or even 8"....insulation fits with fondant tub under and ventilation over; plenty room for a feeder etc. I only have one eke...on a hive with a daft 4 inch roof. For me, bigger is better (when it comes to roofs ).

 

[Dishmop]

Feeders

plenty room for a feeder etc.

Having just built 2 new hives, what kind of argument can we have as to which is the best type of feeder.

 

[victor meldrew]

favour the rectangular plastic variety
The sturdy ones with lid , holds a gallon of syrup ,easy to store/clean .
Refillable without disturbing the bees . Cheap enough to keep one permanently under each roof space (extra insulation )
Tin hats on
VM

 

[oliver90owner]

As deep as practicable, I would suggest.

I made some 150mm deep, much lighter than the standard Th*rne 4" issue. The next lot will be another ~25mm deep.

Several advantages - easy to install more insulation, an eke (or even a feeder), less likely to blow off (never had any roof blow off in ten years, or so), they will still be lighter (or as light) than the Th*rne 4", and any box, I stand on the up-turned roof, will need just a little less effort when lifting down and up (that is 75mm worth of 'less effort', each way, over the normal roofs).

RAB

 

[priono]

roof

i have got 4 inches as well and fell instead tin on top. is super water tight

 

[savoyard]

should i put roof ventilation in?

If the hive roof encloses an (empty) space then it MUST be ventilated. A couple of summers ago I lost a roof to dry-rot when the vents became blocked.

In hives with top bee-spaces, a flat, un-vented roof can double as a crown board.

Savoyard

 

[luckydunny]

What if using OMF??

I thought roof ventillation and/or "matchstick" trick with OMF could allegedly cause undesirable through-draught.

Or does that not apply if solid CrownBoard, (no holes) is used?

 

[drstitson]

"In hives with top bee-spaces, a flat, un-vented roof can double as a crown board."

yes but will get stuck down and you won't be able to get hive tool in to lever.

crownboard = top of the hive. roof is on top of that.

 

[birchdale]

6" or even 8"....insulation fits with fondant tub under and ventilation over; plenty room for a feeder etc. I only have one eke...on a hive with a daft 4 inch roof. For me, bigger is better (when it comes to roofs ).

Not so far to bend when you have loaded the upturned roof with hive stuff. The higher sides are also useful to catch bees that 'miss' the cat litter tray I put in the upturned rood when I want to shake bees to put into apideas.