Please remind me, why use hoffman frames?

[oliver90owner]

Seymour,

I don't think it wass stated anywhere as being wrong. You really need to read what the poster has written and not what you want to believe the poster has written.

Rather than leave a frame of bees ouside the hive, I might shake them off first. Afterall an outside frame is less likely to have brood on it. 9 mm is an adequate space to avoid 'squishing' bees, but maybe m100 is a good deal more experienced...

RAB

 

[m100]

However, I think you've been brainwashed by the suppliers as Hoffman BN frames are more expensive than BN standard frames.

I closed a brood box with Hoffman frames this afternoon and each frame took me ages to ensure bees (AND MAYBE THE QUEEN!) were clear of the cutting edges when I slid the frames together.

They will be more expensive, there is more wood, more waste, more time spent machining.

No need to spend ages closing the frames up, close them up as you go along and most of the bees get out of the way - you can hear when a bee is getting trapped. When all frames are in the box snug them all up with the hive tool. Buggering about with castellations or spacers means that you will roll a whole frame of bees sometimes with fatal results.
(and with castellations this happens repeatedly right through the inspection)

 

[seymour]

Seymour,

I don't think it wass stated anywhere as being wrong. You really need to read what the poster has written and not what you want to believe the poster has written.

Rather than leave a frame of bees ouside the hive, I might shake them off first. Afterall an outside frame is less likely to have brood on it. 9 mm is an adequate space to avoid 'squishing' bees, but maybe m100 is a good deal more experienced...

RAB

Sorry, I didnt mean wrong in the sense of incorrect, although it was originally posted " then you never have to leave a frame outside during an inspection " this , to me anyway, implied it was not a good idea.I was trying to understand why it might not be a good idea to leave a frame outside, I have always done it but that doesnt mean its a good thing.

 

[Poly Hive]

If you are cost focussed you will rarely do the best for your bees.

I gave up on the nonsense that spacers represent over 20 years ago, and for that matter 2nds. Buy cheap pay dear.

If you buy cheap hives the same applies. You honestly cannot expect cheap stuff to do the same work and last as long as good quality kit.

Life is very unfair like that.

PH

 

[m100]

Whats wrong with leaving a frame outside ? Makes a lot more room to avoid squishing bees.

Using 11 frames and then taking a thin dummy out gives 424 - (11 x 35 spacing) =39 mm spare space.

That lets you move the frame sideways giving 3/4 an inch of space either side of the frame. The only thing outside the hive is the dummy board, no need to shake bees from the frames or forget a frame when you box back up.

 

[Poly Hive]

Ah but m100 that is assuming rather a lot.

It assumes that everyone is using standard kit... LOL Sorry but I have to LOL at that one. There are tens of thousands very badly made brood boxes around.
I know this as I have burnt rather a lot of them.

Poly hives take 11 frames with NO gap.

Some home made rubbish will barely take 10.

One assumes facts to be accurate about beekeeping when the hobbyists have been out in their sheds at your extreme peril.... LOL

PH

 

[Tim1606]

Just got our weekly newsletter from the association and they have this tip inside.

To close the gap between frames and to avoid squashing bees, insert a hive tool vertically into the gap to clear the bees, push the frames together onto the hive tool, then slide the tool and gently push the frames together to close the small gap that remains.

Hope this is some help.