Fitting a mouse guard

[BernardBlack]

Would it be acceptable to take out entrance block altogether, and fit mouse guard?

Or fit mouse guard OVER the entrance block?

 

[Teemore]

Either or neither.

From a personal perspective, my entrances are shallow enough to serve as mouse guards so I don't add any form of further mechanical block to keep put mice. This work for me. It works for the man who started me in beekeeping and it works for a lot of other beekeepers. There have been many discussions on this subject on this very forum so there is plenty of material for you to glean through.

The choice is entirely yours.

 

[domino]

Last year I noticed the bees could pull out out the dead bees with the block in and guard on. This year I'll put it on without the block in.

 

[enrico]

Depending on the guard, if it is the one with the bridge type entrance rather than just holes I usually lift it slightly off the landing board when I pin it on, it seems to save the pollen sacks.
E

 

[BernardBlack]

Depending on the guard, if it is the one with the bridge type entrance rather than just holes I usually lift it slightly off the landing board when I pin it on, it seems to save the pollen sacks.
E

Metal guard with the arches.

 

[Millet]

It has been said time and time again but mouse guards are not needed if you have the right floors or entrance blocks, i use two types of entrance 8mm underfloor and 8mm tunnel entrances which are left the same no matter what time of the year, no pollen gets knocked of and the undertaker bees can carry on as normal with the added bonus of hives can be better defended from wasps and mice have no hope of getting in and you still have the full width for ventilation if needed.