Few beginner questions.

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LiamAiden

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Although I have read quite a bit before starting, I still have a few areas where I'm not 100% sure. Hopefully someone can just guide me on these.

* in winter it says 'remove all supers', but then it goes on to say; 'don't take any honey for the first year'.

My bees have fields of wild flowers and a very large area of clover just planted, so food will be plentiful. I'm guessing they will need a super this year. So I don't understand: don't take honey but remove supers, but they will have honey in.

*just for interest, do queen bees use feeders?.

*Lastly, for those that keep video records: any recommendations on a decent video camera with good enough quality to pick up eggs. As I'm learning it's very difficult to view and remember everything in the hive, so would be nice to capture each frame for reference to learn from.
 
IMO
Pop a queen excluder on as soon as bees on the outer frames of the BB.
If brand new undrawn super frames then leave the QE out for a week to allow bees to go up unfettered. Remember to pop QE in after a week. (Bees seem reluctant to go through QE to brand new frames)
When the bees have filled the super and capped most, remove, pop another super on the QE then put filled super back on top.

If you have a super of capped honey in June, then of course you can remove, but be aware that there is a slowing down of available nectar in this month, so don't leave bees short of stores. your second super should be sufficient, but have care.

Queens do not use any feed stored, the house bees feed her with everything. Hence she will die if they have new queen and want her out
Looking for eggs, get the sun behind you to shine in the cells. it helps.
 
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Ok, big learning curve isn't it! By all means take honey if they have given you some. If there is just a small amount then take a couple of frames. That is why you keep bees!
There are several things to do before winter. Remove your honey if you want to. If you do leave them some in a super then if it is uncapped then at the end of September put the super box under the brood box with no queen excluder and the bees will move it into the brood box. If it is called then remove the queen excluder and out it above the brood box. They will use that once they have finished what is in the brood box. My advice, don't leave any supers on. Other than my first suggestion above, then feed until your brood box is too heavy to lift. Queen's don't feed, they get fed by other bees.
There is still all of summer to go before you worry about winter though so just enjoy!!!!!

E
 
I would add Pay attention to your beekeeping and dont bother filming it. I see too many ppl on youtube more interested in the filming and dont concentrate on what they are seeing in front of them
 
Most digital still cameras also do decent video recording these days (my current Panasonic Z100 records at 4K) and many can do this under macro settings. I have been photographing bees and all aspects of beekeeping for decades and supply images to beekeeping magazines, to other beekeepers to use in their books not forgetting using them in my PPT lectures I deliver all over the UK. Most beekeepers don't feel the need to photograph their bees and beekeeping practises possibly worrying about getting propolis and honey etc in the works of their precious camera although many do photograph bees working flowers which is a hobby in itself. Ps bees often "attack" black cameras but not the silver coloured ones.
 

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* in winter it says 'remove all supers', but then it goes on to say; 'don't take any honey for the first year'.

Depends which books you have - some are only good for smoker fuel
Of course you can take honey off - you're not growing rhubarb :D.
Just remember if you take off their honey stores you have to feed them syrup on September to replace it.As Enrico, don't leave any supers or queen excluders on overwinter unless you have one Nadired (Put underneath the brood box)
Queen excluders are a personal preference, use them now and decide on whether to carry on after you gain some experience.
Once the brood box is full of bees and you have at least six or seven frames of brood, put your queen excluder on and your first super - put more on later if needs be (usual guide is once a super is full of bees and nearing half full of stores, put on another)
It's a myth to believe bees are reluctant to go through a queen excluder onto fresh foundation. They will go up only when they need to
*just for interest, do queen bees use feeders?.

No
 
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Filming on an iPhone can be useful, my wife filmed an inspection where we failed to find the queen. On the playback we spotted her.
I expect that if you are able to fix the focus (holding your finger on the screen at the point you want it to auto focus fix until it says it’s done it) and run it over the comb you will be able to play it back and see things at your leisure.
It will also give you a better idea of what to look for that you missed the first time.
It’s a good tool, but don’t let it make you miss what is there at the time.

Courty
 
I would add Pay attention to your beekeeping and dont bother filming it. I see too many ppl on youtube more interested in the filming and dont concentrate on what they are seeing in front of them

I find the average content of beekeeper you tube self video is utter tripe.
 
Videos or photos

*Lastly, for those that keep video records: any recommendations on a decent video camera with good enough quality to pick up eggs. As I'm learning it's very difficult to view and remember everything in the hive, so would be nice to capture each frame for reference to learn from.

Assuming you want to record video for records and not for YouTube, you may find still photos suffice. Beetight is the app I use for keeping hive records, and you can take photos in the app.
 
Sorry, my Welsh friend.. not a myth.. bees much slower to go up to brand new foundation if a QE is in place.. seen many times with new beekeepers ringing me saying bees not using supers..but if they do as I suggest then a faster development of super takes place.. I can only go with my own experiences.
 
We've always left a super for the bees.
We've always left it on top.
We only nadir a super if we want it emptied.
 
Ps bees often "attack" black cameras but not the silver coloured ones.

I have found that. I use a tiny audio recorder for leeping notes and as soon as I get it out the bees start pinging it; it is black. Whether it is the colour or there is some sensitivity to the electromagnetics in the machine I couldn't honestly say as I would need a light-coloured device as a control and I'm not that sad :)
 
Never put black near them.. they will pile in with an attack...not sure why.. but seen it happen.. Pal wore white gloves with a black stripe. White all clear, but the black stripe... I reckon 100 stings!!!
 
Sorry, my Welsh friend.. not a myth.. bees much slower to go up to brand new foundation if a QE is in place..
Absolute rubbish - and you know it just more mumbo jumbo from the usual sources.
And why do you have to continually mention my nationality?
do you have an issue with race?
 
As a beginner myself I don't know how you could handle filming an inspection at the same time as concentrating on what you're doing. I have enough hands for a frame and a hive tool, and anything beyond that gets me in a fluster. I'm sure I could film from a distance with a camera on a tripod, but not close enough to see anything like eggs.
I can just about manage to snap the odd photo with my phone if there's something interesting, or I just want another picture of HM.
 

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