feeding bee's

[beesleybees]

Hi guys,

To cut along story short and being a newb, I bought 2 hives. I have had someone come and take a look at them who has been bee keeping for a couple of years now so knows a little but more than me. Anyway the frames in the broodbox on one of the hives are so fused together with wax that its impossible to get them out to take a look at them. I have been advised that I should move this colony to a new hive because of this and also because of evidence of mold and the general condition of the hive. As the guy has never done this, he has gone away to do some more research on the matter.

Anyway these bees are quite aggressive compared to the other hive and there doesnt seem that many of them compared to the other hive. Due to the weather conditions lately and the fact that I cant see what stores they have, im thinking of feeding them syrup solution (1lb sugar to 1 litre water) until we get then all sorted just to give them a helping hand.

I dont have a 'bee feeder' but until i order one, is it ok to use an upturned jam jar with a few holes in it?? does this have to be placed inside the hive or can it be put next to the hive until i buy one??

any other advice greatly appreciated

 

[Monsieur Abeille]

The jamjar will need to go above the feedhole in the crownboard, protected by an empty super or similar.

Odd advise re moving because of the "waxing" together of frames. This happens very often, and is a result of too much or too little space being left between each frame (they should either be self spacing or should have spacers on the end of each lug). However if the box is mouldy then its not a bad idea to move the bees and clean it up.

 

[Erichalfbee]

I'd just shake them into a new box when you can get one. I tried a shook swarm for the first time ever last month and I was really surprised with how quickly they get on with it. Good chance to get a good crack at the mites as well.

 

[beesleybees]

The jamjar will need to go above the feedhole in the crownboard, protected by an empty super or similar.

Odd advise re moving because of the "waxing" together of frames. This happens very often, and is a result of too much or too little space being left between each frame (they should either be self spacing or should have spacers on the end of each lug). However if the box is mouldy then its not a bad idea to move the bees and clean it up.

thanx for the reply.

The only problem is that I dont have a spare super at the minute as its been used for the spare hive incase they swarm. I have ordered more supers but not sure when they will be delivered.

is there any other way to do this for the time being?

 

[Monsieur Abeille]

Depends how handy you are with four bits of wood - something the same dimensions as your brood box, deep enough to contain the jar, and sturdy enough to hold the roof.

 

[huntsman666]

Consider a Bailey Comb Change:-

http://www.wimbledonbeekeepers.co.uk/Bailey Comb Change.pdf

BTW; don't give any medication this time of the year.

 

[beesleybees]

Depends how handy you are with four bits of wood - something the same dimensions as your brood box, deep enough to contain the jar, and sturdy enough to hold the roof.

Thanx again for the replies, not sure if ive got any wood knocking about that I could use but I have an idea.

When we first got the hives, we put an extra super on each with frames to give them more room even though they had only really just started drawing comb on the frames in the first super. Could really see the harm in doing that.

They havent touched the frames in the secound super, so could i not remove a couple of them and place the upturned jam jar in their place? it would be easier until i get a proper feeder.

 

[Monsieur Abeille]

Sounds like you dont need the second super at all yet. Put the crown board on top of the first, then the second super without frames, but with jamjar on top of the feeder hole in the crownboard.

When putting the jamjar on firstly invert it well away from the hive until any excess syrup has fallen out and a vaccum has formed or you may drown her maj.

 

[oliver90owner]

The relatively new beeks are doing well with the advice.

But none seem to have noticed your feed recipe. 1:1 is the norm this time of year. Imperial or metric but not both units at the same time!.

Probably the most important thing is to know how much varroa infestation there is and medicate if required. All very well not using any medications but a dead colony has no worth (and there is no point in killing them off just for the sake of a necessary medication).

They both have 2 supers? First of all, is there any stores in the supers? What type of hive? (guess at National deep)

If all else fails damp sugar on the crownboard and leave a porter bee escape hole open for them.

Comparing weight of the two brood boxes might give you some indication to start off with.

Regards, RAB

 

[beesleybees]

The relatively new beeks are doing well with the advice.

But none seem to have noticed your feed recipe. 1:1 is the norm this time of year. Imperial or metric but not both units at the same time!.

Probably the most important thing is to know how much varroa infestation there is and medicate if required. All very well not using any medications but a dead colony has no worth (and there is no point in killing them off just for the sake of a necessary medication).

They both have 2 supers? First of all, is there any stores in the supers? What type of hive? (guess at National deep)

If all else fails damp sugar on the crownboard and leave a porter bee escape hole open for them.

Comparing weight of the two brood boxes might give you some indication to start off with.

Regards, RAB

Thanx RAB for the advice, the ratio of sugar to water has been noted.

We have only have a couple of capped cells in the supers, they seem to be mainly focusing on building the foundation up. We added another super to each hive as the brood box on both hive looked so full, we thought it would give them more room. We didnt think it would hurt in anyway!

I had someone look at the hives, he noticed no real disease concerns on bothe hives. Hive one brood box was inspected and cleaned up, didnt find queen but there were eggs so she must be there somewhere.

As for hive 2, the brood foundations are that waxed up that Its impossible to remove any brood frames for inspection. There is also mold on a few frames and this is the hive we are contemplating swapping into a new hive. The bees in this hive are quite aggressive compared to hive 1.

The activity of both hives icreased dramatically today, Im thinking the hot weather has spured them on as the weather has not been to good recently

This is all brand new to me and so any advice is most welcome

 

[greatbritishhoney]

The bees in this hive are quite aggressive compared to hive 1.

The extra aggression could just be to do with the fact that you are having to be fairly invasive to inspect teh hive.

 

[user 382]

The extra aggression could just be to do with the fact that you are having to be fairly invasive to inspect teh hive.

It could also be down to them having little or no stores. Their temperament may improve once you've fed them.