Drone chalkbrood

[Rory Fields]

Also whilst Cuban bees have a European origin they are distinctly different. Due to their isolation and African influence.
There is also another much smaller isolated population on another island of European origin bees living with Varroa. Research shows these hives having a lack of the main viruses we contend with and spread by Varroa.
Even in this country we have an example of bees coping with varroa when lesser virulent/damaging viruses are present.
It appears bees may cope to a point with varroa but it’s associated viruses are the tipping point!
We need to be careful or realistic when comparing like for lik!

Thanks for the elucidation- really interesting stuff I'd no notion of. I know of a couple of beekeepers in my association who are treatment free, but they don't take much honey, and tolerate Chalk and sackbrood and poor temperament that I wouldn't enjoy.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

can you tell us more about which techniques they employ if it's not specified in BBKA News

I wouldn't depend on them to give us the full facts on anything!

 

[Beth]

Tagging onto an old thread for opinions. Due to 2 bereavements this year necessitating many extended trips, I wasn't able to look after the hives as well as I would wish.
Of 2 that swarmed, they requeened and there was BIAS at one point. Both on brood and a half.

Now they are declining, egg laying is over (north Scotland). Today's inspection revealed chalkbrood in both. Mummies on the floor, etc. I could give you a long list of things that could have brought it on. My interest is in recovery. I am going to burn the brood frames. They are all ancient, black and nothing worth saving in them. Both brood supers are full of stores. Both humming contentedly to suggest a queen present. I put pollen patties on, mainly to make me feel better.

Two possibilities for recovery - which?

1) Unite both supers with bees on top of an empty brood box

2) Unite both supers straight on to the mesh floor. I'm thinking this would be cold though.

I plan to let the queens sort it out, doesn't matter as neither are fit for purpose. As I understand, CB is highly genetic.

Thanks for advice. Not a great start to winter. A 3rd hive is already gone, never saw chalkbrood but I think the queen wasn't well mated.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

1) Unite both supers with bees on top of an empty brood box

2) Unite both supers straight on to the mesh floor. I'm thinking this would be cold though.

Now is not the time to fiddle with the bees
wait until the spring buildup is underway, put a queen excluder under the supers making sure the queen is down in the deeps) and then conduct a modified Bailey on each hive.

 

[Ian123]

Tagging onto an old thread for opinions. Due to 2 bereavements this year necessitating many extended trips, I wasn't able to look after the hives as well as I would wish.
Of 2 that swarmed, they requeened and there was BIAS at one point. Both on brood and a half.

Now they are declining, egg laying is over (north Scotland). Today's inspection revealed chalkbrood in both. Mummies on the floor, etc. I could give you a long list of things that could have brought it on. My interest is in recovery. I am going to burn the brood frames. They are all ancient, black and nothing worth saving in them. Both brood supers are full of stores. Both humming contentedly to suggest a queen present. I put pollen patties on, mainly to make me feel better.

Two possibilities for recovery - which?

1) Unite both supers with bees on top of an empty brood box

2) Unite both supers straight on to the mesh floor. I'm thinking this would be cold though.

I plan to let the queens sort it out, doesn't matter as neither are fit for purpose. As I understand, CB is highly genetic.

Thanks for advice. Not a great start to winter. A 3rd hive is already gone, never saw chalkbrood but I think the queen wasn't well mated.

I’d overwinter both colonies if they are looking reasonable in size, I’d also ensure they are treated simply crack the supers off and insert a couple of strips, if you’ve not done so already. Pointless to unite and then lose them you’ll be kicking yourself.
In the Spring simply put a new brood on top. When the bees/queen move up simply slide a QX in and remove any unwanted old boxes/frames when brood has emerged.
Replace your queens at the earliest opportunity next season, early introductions are easier imo!

 

[ericbeaumont]

Today's inspection revealed chalkbrood in both

Is there a history of chalk brood in your apiary?

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Tagging onto an old thread for opinions. Due to 2 bereavements this year necessitating many extended trips, I wasn't able to look after the hives as well as I would wish.
Of 2 that swarmed, they requeened and there was BIAS at one point. Both on brood and a half.

Now they are declining, egg laying is over (north Scotland). Today's inspection revealed chalkbrood in both. Mummies on the floor, etc. I could give you a long list of things that could have brought it on. My interest is in recovery. I am going to burn the brood frames. They are all ancient, black and nothing worth saving in them. Both brood supers are full of stores. Both humming contentedly to suggest a queen present. I put pollen patties on, mainly to make me feel better.

Two possibilities for recovery - which?

1) Unite both supers with bees on top of an empty brood box

2) Unite both supers straight on to the mesh floor. I'm thinking this would be cold though.

I plan to let the queens sort it out, doesn't matter as neither are fit for purpose. As I understand, CB is highly genetic.

Thanks for advice. Not a great start to winter. A 3rd hive is already gone, never saw chalkbrood but I think the queen wasn't well mated.

As Emyr already said, leave them alone until spring. When the colonies are expanding carry out a Bailey change.

 

[Beth]

No it hasn't been a problem. I'm shopping for queens to book for next year though. Or would you recommend waiting and seeing what brood pattern emerges in the Spring?

 

[user 819]

Keep your bees and look in the spring , try and improve the bees you have by selection and collecting of swarms or use bait hives. Get rid of iffy queens as I have done this with my bees and have never bought any bees or queens.
One can sometimes get aweful bees from swarms but I have rarely found this and in general find most bees are pretty good , more perceived bad traits are more down to handling skills then the bees.

I have a PIR long hive I built during covid with 26 bs deep frames and this year the colony replacement DLQ and few hundred remaining bees were left remaining. Before I had set about shaking them out, they were usurped by a swarm arriving and taking over . The bees have great temprament and a good laying queen and have filled every frame with brood and stores, next year they will go in to a BS national double brood hive.

 

[user 819]

The bees that arrived in the LH need minimal smoke and are quiet on the comb, a small puff soon gets them moving along the comb.
One thing I try and do with my colonies and to improve is to encourage drone rearing from the best colonies with the best traits. Replace manky , old combs, pollen laden ones or excess stores (if too many) with foundationless combs, bees will soon draw drone comb if given the choice.