Double Brood into Single for winter (Scotland)

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OutStanden

New Bee
Joined
Jun 24, 2024
Messages
23
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Location
Scotland
Number of Hives
1
Hello.

So I know how to condense them down so that's not an issue. I was more wondering wether I should. I know it's going to be cold so less space for them to heat, But then next year it "might" delay swarm preps for a bit.
Does anyone have any pros and cons to it?
 
Much depends on the size of colony and thus stores required, so a bit early to judge.

DBB gives peace of mind regarding sufficiency of winter stores; you will find that the nest will move slowly up and sit in the top box by spring, in which case the bottom box will act as a wind baffle.

Swap the BBs round once spring laying begins, to give the colony work & space to lay. The upper box will be ideal for laying as it will then receive rising warmth from the nest below.

Conservation of heat & humidity is essential: is the crownboard sealed and insulated with a minimum of 50mm PIR?

Season over up there?
 
Much depends on the size of colony and thus stores required, so a bit early to judge.

DBB gives peace of mind regarding sufficiency of winter stores; you will find that the nest will move slowly up and sit in the top box by spring, in which case the bottom box will act as a wind baffle.

Swap the BBs round once spring laying begins, to give the colony work & space to lay. The upper box will be ideal for laying as it will then receive rising warmth from the nest below.

Conservation of heat & humidity is essential: is the crownboard sealed and insulated with a minimum of 50mm PIR?

Season over up there?

Ideally the setup would be 2BB with empty Super ontop for Feeder or Fondant. Crown on top with Insulation. Fairly big space but will look at a wrap for the Hive.

Flow seems to be weakening because of the weather. It's either rain or wind where I am. Still some stuff around for them and on a decent day they are all out but most of the forage around me looks to be over.

Your idea sounds sound with swapping the Boxes around so I think I may start feeding 2.1 and get them filling the Brood. Then when weather drops, a slab of fondant on top so I don't need to open to refill feed.
 
My bees are in double brood but each box reduced to nine frames by using thick dummy boards, either 25mm or 50mm. %0mm either side allows nine frames to fit snugly so I usually achieve this with one 50mm and two 25mm per box, having two thinner boards makes things easier when inspecting.
This eighteen frame configuration doesn't compromise your honey crop but they very rarely need feeding and will usually find all they need from any late Balsam and Ivy. Your late forage may not be so abundant but with luck, your boxes should contain a decent amount of stores meaning winter feeding is more a case of topping up. Worth a try IMO.
 
My bees are in double brood but each box reduced to nine frames by using thick dummy boards, either 25mm or 50mm. %0mm either side allows nine frames to fit snugly so I usually achieve this with one 50mm and two 25mm per box, having two thinner boards makes things easier when inspecting.

This year I'm experimenting with a similar configuration, though my dummies use two old narrow top bars glued together to make the new top rail, so they're around 44mm wide which leaves a bee-space gap between the dummy and the hive wall.

James
 
I just use single or double DN1's, single for 25mm or double for 50mm. The 25mm and 50mm are kingspan cut to fit in the frames.
 
Feeder or Fondant
Crown on top with Insulation
I combine the two by using an Abelo box feeder all year as CB and liquid or fondant feeder.

In autumn I seal the base access slot with silicone tube to increase insulation; in spring I remove it to give bees access to build comb, should I be late with boxes.

The steel baffle is discarded; if feeding syrup (though I have not for five years) bracken or grass is stuffed into the feeder & syrup poured on top. For spring fondant the box is flipped over to cover the block.

Saves buying crownboards, fitting insulation, buying a feeder, fitting an empty super and clearing away to clean & store.
 
My usual set up is same as ericbeaumont. I do not have to worry about late winter feed as there is more than enough in double BB.
Swapping the boxes over is a brilliant way to delay or prevent swarming, despite encouraging queen to lay.
Mind you I am way down south, but still use plenty of top insulation
 
In terms of insulation and feeding, I make clear crown boards and have been making 7cm ekes which stay on year round with a slab of 50mm PIR fitted in. The PIR has two cutout sections, one takeaway tub shaped and one rapid feeder shaped, all taped and centred over the centre hole on the CB. This means I can feed fondant or syrup as needed, insulation is always on the hive and I have the advantage of clear CBs.

Apart from the clear CB aspect, I think @ericbeaumont has a simpler setup.
 
I combine the two by using an Abelo box feeder all year as CB and liquid or fondant feeder.

In autumn I seal the base access slot with silicone tube to increase insulation; in spring I remove it to give bees access to build comb, should I be late with boxes.

The steel baffle is discarded; if feeding syrup (though I have not for five years) bracken or grass is stuffed into the feeder & syrup poured on top. For spring fondant the box is flipped over to cover the block.

Saves buying crownboards, fitting insulation, buying a feeder, fitting an empty super and clearing away to clean & store.

How do you measure your Hive on Double Brood? If you do, do you have a rough idea of how much it should weigh?

I've researched a single Brood should be 18kg each side roughly. So what would a DB be?
 
How do you measure your Hive on Double Brood? If you do, do you have a rough idea of how much it should weigh?

I've researched a single Brood should be 18kg each side roughly. So what would a DB be?
Go to the general Beekeeping Forum HERE
The second option is called Index of Stckies
Scroll down to "Hive Weights"
Some of that may help
 

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