Do circular saw blades "Bed in" ?

[Adam]

Having blurted that out, i have to admit that i dont use a riving knife on mine either, it just wouldnt stay on long enough to be of use.

If your after just ripping loads of timber to size, look at a decent bandsaw, if possible one that will take a resaw blade with tct teeth, they are the mutts nutts for quick cutting.

If you are looking at Bandsaws, then I would look second hand. I don't hear good reports about Record. But you can pick up some excellent ex-school bandsaws which have a very easy life.

With regard to riving knifes, the nice thing about the Scheppach is that you can leave the riving knife in place, even if doing a trenching/rebate cut as the top of the knife is just below the top of the blade. All you have to take off is the crown guard.

If you are doing any serious amount of cutting, an induction blade makes a big difference in comfort level for you, the missus & the neighbours!

Adam

 

[fredbloggs]

first and foremost. DO NOT USE A TABLE SAW WITHOUT A RIVING KNIFE AND NEVER WITHOUT A GUARD.

If you feel like ignoring this sound advice, PM me and I'll email you some pics that can't be posted on a public forum?? These piks are an example of what happens when after 14 years of using the same table saw you get complacent and leave the guard off for a session (can't happen to me can it?) .

Second, regardless of your make of table based tool (band saw/planer/table saw etc - anything that uses the wood moving on the table) invest in some Liberon wax, you will be amazed at the improvement in Resistance of the piece on the table and hence the cutting effort. I was convinced my blades were becoming dull. I have a triton saw table that had accumulated invisible gunk over the years. I cleaned the table with turps (not substitute - won the pools and used the real stuff) coat of liberon and whoosh!!) Blimey. the difference is that now, you have to watch pieces left on the table as the slightest touch sends them on a glide (like being on ice) and they fall off the edge. and I'm not kidding!

Third - regardless of the quality of the saw, do not skimp on the quality of saw blades and IMHO go for TCT every time (unless your application requires HSS of course) . I bought 4/5 Aven blades some 15 years ago. Had them sharpened once since and they are still all good to go. This is not without some fastidious maintenance mind you. Cheaper blades do not have the meat on the tips to resharpen besides which, smaller tips overheat easier.

Oh and don't forget to clean the crud off the tips before you stash the bladed away in the cupboard. Especially softwood (like pine) as it is resinous and sticks like STAB (think about it) and dulls the finish.

All the best

FB

 

[fredbloggs]

Hi again

Before I get buried in responses - some clarifications (and bear in mind my advice is aimed at the novices not intent on self-mutilation )

My machine has to have the riving knife fitted B4 you can use the guard - it mounts on it.

I do appreciate that there are some cuts where the knife must be removed (blind rips - or trenching)these by their very nature do give some protection from the blade but don't take your eye off the blade (sod everything else)

It is very difficult to perform manipulations of frames if you saw the top of your thumb off.

Also

There is a brilliant piece of kit (in the axminster catalogue but cheaper elsewhere) a flip up polycarb visor. You don't know you've got it on and deflects saw dust as well as big chunks of wood. Try it and you won't cut without one.

Finally

Those of you who recall the BBKA forum some two years ago will recall the forum heading "How not to keep bees?" I am proud to say the idea was all my own work ( and most of the content)

After all " If you can't be a good example - at least be a horrible warning" (plagiarized from the moderator/admin of "Down the lane " Forum.

Cheers

FB