Diy hive plans

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Aggravated

New Bee
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Location
London
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Hi to All

I am very new to bee keeping, and want to start properly in the spring next year, so over the winter I am going to join the local club, but in the mean time I would like to build my own hive.

Does any body have some decent plans that can let me have?

All comments and advise would be most welcome

Regards
 
All sorts of advice in the hive building section of the forum, Including plans.
Biggest problem is getting hold of the right wood, unless you are, like me planning on ply for now. :)
 
Thanks, I was going to use marine ply.
 
welcome to the forum there is loads of useful information for you to browse on this forum, happy beekeeping :)
 
Welcome. There is a whole section on this site dedicated to DIY which you may have missed here
 
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try looking up Scottish Beekeepers Association lots of plans and stuff on there.
 
Welcome.

First, you need to decide on what type of hive you are intending using. May save some wasted effort and time, not to mention materials....

RAB
 
If you are going to use ply then take the cutting plan to B&Q. they are currently doing free cutting on sheet materials. If the member of staff tries to tell you its limited to 15 cuts tell them to check with management as they are advertising free. I have had 5 sheets cut on separate occaisons twice the member of staff has tried to limit but been overruled and the other 3 they just cut it anyway.
One of the threads on the DIY section has a link to a really easy to use sheet planninig software. Just input the sizes of panels you want and quantity and it plans most efficient cutting. Limitation on free software is you cant print it direct so just take a screen shot and print using what ever image editing software you got.


David
 
Thanks, I was going to use marine ply.

Save your money and buy shuttering ply its a lot lot cheaper and is PVA coated on the outside surfaces.

For the frames and other parts ask the suppliers for their seconds of PSE pine sections which you can get for next to nothing.
When you have decided which system you are going for get the timber yard to cut the sections to size so all you do is glue and build.

One of the problems you will encounter is that ply does not readily take to nailing or screwing as it delaminates over time, I would go for PSE quality redwood, not cedar unless your well off and have equipment to section rough sawn stock.

Go for a quality carcass and use new rejects for everything else, you can buy standard frame kits quite cheaply or find second hand stuff at this time of year as people pack in beekeeping.

I have just built three complete towers for 100 quid each in materials, everything feeders and all, that's a small fraction of the new retail prices.

If you were nearer to me I would help you get the job done, but your about 2-3 hours drive from us.

Good luck anyway.
 
apprentice

- are you quite confident in recommending 'shuttering ply' ?

I made some composting bins with 4ft x 3ft panels "recycled " from a nearby site the year before last and all the edges of the panels have now seriously frayed.

rich
 
Save your money and buy shuttering ply its a lot lot cheaper and is PVA coated on the outside surfaces.
.

Yes shuttering ply is a lot cheaper and it is poor quality ply and if you go that way you will have to paint / preserve it each year and then be prepared for it to delaminate and require repairs.

A hive made from shuttering ply will work and the bees will be happy but without that yearly maintenance it will be in bits after a few years.
 
If you use ply and I do, get it cut 10mm smaller for the two outer panels and then glue 5mm edging strips on useing Cascamite glue, it will stop the weather getting in. the two inner panels are covered by the frame rail top and the chamfered bottom rail so do not need lipping.
 
apprentice

- are you quite confident in recommending 'shuttering ply' ?

I made some composting bins with 4ft x 3ft panels "recycled " from a nearby site the year before last and all the edges of the panels have now seriously frayed.

rich

Yes but only as a temporary couple of years or so, and why I recommended later in my post to use quality red wood for the boxes/carcasses if he could afford it.

I have made nukes from old tile display boxes complete with piano hinge, any sturdy ready made box will do if the right size with a little mods to take the frames.

I have made 3 solar wax melters to date from shuttering ply using urea based glues and dovetail construction one is nigh on ten years old and still like new.

It all depends on how much skill, time and cash you have which really counts, that will get you what you want and the bees a home.
 
I asked my local timber yard if they had any plywood of cuts. They said 'no'.

So I asked them how much for a sheet of 8x4 cut into these sizes (brood box sizes). Their answer? £120 +vat! :eek:

So much for shopping local, Wickes is £22 for the ply, and a mate will cut it to size for me.
 
I asked my local timber yard if they had any plywood of cuts. They said 'no'.

So I asked them how much for a sheet of 8x4 cut into these sizes (brood box sizes). Their answer? £120 +vat! :eek:

So much for shopping local, Wickes is £22 for the ply, and a mate will cut it to size for me.

Wrong place to ask is the Wicked supplier.

Here we have a supplier who sells THE very best top quality birchwood ply from a company called Martin Falls who sell it for.

6 @ 9 millimetr for 15.00 pounds per sheet.
12.00 millimeter For 19.00
18.00 millimeter for 24.00

Howarth timber supplies are a close second and up the expensive ladder we go as the suppliers get larger.

There is a doubling in prices for the same product in a mile gap between suppliers on our trading estate, it pays to barter them down and today with our cashless society they will move if your harsh enough.

Shop around your local van lining companies or shop fitters or concreting gangs and the goodies await.
 
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Welcome to the forum.
I have used Dave Cushman's site and the Scottish Beekeepers,but excellent. Unfortunately I may found an anomaly, if I have interpreted things right.
Dave's site says to set the side wall up 9mm from the base, but this only leaves 15mm up top for the frame lugs and runners. SB say 1/4 at the bottom which leaves 11/16 (17.5mm) at the top.
Don't want to be picky but the way I have interpreted things the frames do not sit low enough, you are 2.5 mm short. I have had to remove bees and runners and get the router out. :eek:
Sorted now in my mind, but just making others aware, or is it me getting it wrong. :)
S
P.S. I did mention this to Dave, but sadly it was not resolved. :)
 
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Welcome to the forum.
I have used Dave Cushman's site and the Scottish Beekeepers,but excellent. Unfortunately I may found an anomaly, if I have interpreted things right.
Dave's site says to set the side wall up 9mm from the base, but this only leaves 15mm up top for the frame lugs and runners. SB say 1/4 at the bottom which leaves 11/16 (17.5mm) at the top.
Don't want to be picky but the way I have interpreted things the frames do not sit low enough, you are 2.5 mm short. I have had to remove bees and runners and get the router out. :eek:
Sorted now in my mind, but just making others aware, or is it me getting it wrong. :)
S
P.S. I did mention this to Dave, but sadly it was not resolved. :)

A word of advice try to use only one type of measurement say millimeters, and what is it that you have made.

Did you know that Dave passed away this year.
 
Yes shuttering ply is a lot cheaper and it is poor quality ply and if you go that way you will have to paint / preserve it each year and then be prepared for it to delaminate and require repairs.

A hive made from shuttering ply will work and the bees will be happy but without that yearly maintenance it will be in bits after a few years.

It depends what you coat it with... epoxy resin, thin as varnish. It soaks in, sets and with acouple of coats you have a hard durable waterproof finish which has actually striengthened the wood.
Its now used in wooden boat building, each wooden plank is painted with it before assembly so there are no cracks for rot to start. The finish on those boats is beautiful. A great combination of modern and classic materials.
 
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