Digital STC-1000 Thermostat Temperature Controller

[Cussword]

but does it really matter???
answering is no different from the my dad is better than your dad in the playground days, my post just wanted a couple of specific answers for me, no one else, if degrees wanted to be argued new post's should have been made, too many times have I started reading post's here, only for it to totally go off track because a couple of beekeepers have different opinions, the original post then get's lost in 3 or 4 pages of arguments between other beeks, totally spoils the whole point of having a forum to ask questions on when you think about it, maybe when we need an answer, we should post something else, in the hope that we find our answer in the extra pages that get attached to it

Why didn't you just stop reading after you received your answer. Simple really

 

[Nige.Coll]

quick question for those in the know

I've got a fridge and a tubular greenhouse heater, just quickly set it up and plugged in, along with a temperature gauge inside that I can read from outside, within half an hour I was up to 65 degrees and rising, so I'm thinking I need a controller on it, so will the stc-1000 be the kiddo to use, I've watched a few youtube clips but they are all brewer types, that have heat and cooler, and the stc seems set up for this, but can it be used just with a heater ?

cheers

YES..
The wiring is different from the instructions in the box.
You need to have more than one live feed because it is a switch. You need power to the control unit and power to the heating circuit.

Threads evolve like conversations that's just how it is, if that bothers you a lot you may have issues that need medication.

 

[dexter's shed]

YES..
The wiring is different from the instructions in the box.
You need to have more than one live feed because it is a switch. You need power to the control unit and power to the heating circuit.

)

thank you very much question answered

 

[Plenty of honey]

you might get better answers if you start your own topic with the question in the topic, rather than hijacking a post on honey warmers asking about incubators
just my opinion mind, seems anything goes here

Point Taken and wasn't "Hijacking:" Thats intentional, and i wasn't intending!! Apologies

 

[dexter's shed]

finally got the go ahead to do some tinkering in the shed, only got out of hospital a week ago after a major op, so put all the bits together, the stc works great once you figure it out,


https://youtu.be/Pyo2LoXNk-E

 

[Beeline]

Hi

Could someone please help me set up my STC 1000 controller. For someone without elec experience the instructions are scant.
As confirmed by Nige and Dexter it seems power must go to the control unit and heater. I've tried to follow Dexter's video but no luck as he doesn't say what happens to the blue wires.

So in layman's terms plse:
Brown and blue wire from mains goes into a block.
From the block two brown wires come out - apparently, one into terminal (1) Mains and the other, (5) Heating of the thermostat.
So what happens for the blue wire - are there also two blue wires out of the block and these go into (2) and (6)?
Then which terminal does the single blue and brown wire from the heating tube go into?
The earth wires I understand - they just by-pass the thermostat.

Thanks in advance.

 

[maddydog]

You could try searching on YouTube. When I wired mine up there was a Dutch(?) bloke who made a pretty easy to follow video.

 

[Beefriendly]

You need to wire the stc controller to a plug so it has it's own power. You then need to create a break in the live mains cable to your heater and pop these two ends into the switching part of the wiring block of the stc1000.
It's pretty obvious which are the switching slots.
The STC1000 does not provide any power to an external device it only acts as a switch for that device to turn it on or off. Both devices need their own separate power supplies.
Hope that makes sense.

 

[For want of a better word]

The unit is primarily a thermostatically controlled switch

Power ( the live ( Brown) and negative ( Blue ) from your 220V mains supply (or 12V DC supply if a 12V unit) go into the + and - terminals to power up the unit

The relay ( rated at 10A ) can be either double switch ( showing 3 terminal connections on the connector block{early Units} normally open /closed) or single pole..[ showing 2 terminal connectors on connector block ( on later units)... and can be programmed as normally open or normally closed]

Consider that the relay is a simple switch opening and closing as to the way that the Unit has been programmed.

Power is lead to one side ( common) of the relay ( Feed) and the other side leads to the heater unit feed+ side. (Brown)
Other lead of heater is connected to negative supply ( Blue)

To simplify wiring the power ( Live Brown) feed to the unit is shown connecting to one side ( common) of the relay.. and thus onto the heater from the relay.

Suggest you spend a couple of quid on the 12V unit and a 12V battery and a 12V light bulb so that you can experiment with the device and setting parameters befote wiring up a "mains" unit.

Or find an experienced electronics engineer to help you hands on!!

Good luck

Yeghes da

 

[For want of a better word]

You need to wire the stc controller to a plug so it has it's own power. You then need to create a break in the live mains cable to your heater and pop these two ends into the switching part of the wiring block of the stc1000.
It's pretty obvious which are the switching slots.
The STC1000 does not provide any power to an external device it only acts as a switch for that device to turn it on or off. Both devices need their own separate power supplies.
Hope that makes sense.

,,, Beef... that could have saved me some time in finding one in the Radio Shack ( now full of queen rearing kit!)

Yeghes da

 

[Poly Hive]

I run mine in the honey warmer coupled with a digital thermometer.

Given that the STC is measuring from below and the thermometer is measuring the honey temp obviously there is a difference.

On saying that in the morning when the honey is at 32 or 33 the STC is roughly a degree or so less. Pretty accurate for what I use it for and the bottom line is it works, and works well.

PH

 

[Beeline]

Thanks all. I've finally figured it out. Think I'll use a clip-lock lunch box to conceal this unit and the wires.

 

[drex]

Just what I used. I. I cut a rectangular hole in one side of the lunch box and pushed the controller through that, so the buttons are then on face of the box, and accessible for adjustment. Cut holes for wires in opposite side of box. Rather than wiring the heating element direct to the STC, I wired the STC to a socket. That way I can use it to control any heating device ( honey warmer, incubator etc), just plugging it into the socket.

 

[REDWOOD]

Thanks all. I've finally figured it out. Think I'll use a clip-lock lunch box to conceal this unit and the wires.

You might want to think a little bit about British or European standards when working with mains electric. If you are unsure get an electrician to do it for you.

A purpose built instrument enclosure would be the way to go

 

[oliver90owner]

Redwood has nailed it. Any enclosure with mains leads should be inside a properly closed box, not an easily opened snack box.

Basic mains requirements (excluding 'double insulated' items) are two layers of insulation between the conductor and the user.

Just look at a 13 amp plug design. Not easily breakable, only unscrewed while unplugged, fuse inaccessible while plugged in, cable clamp on outer insulation, earth conductor last to be lost in the event of severe mechanical stretching, fuse on live side, plastic coated prongs to prevent connections to the mains while the plug is inserted in a socket, and likely a few more.

All this careful design for someone to come along and stick a live mains circuit in a tuppperware box? Crazy! (and stupid , as well).

 

[Poly Hive]

Now now no need for nasty words.

If the person don't know that is lack of knowledge. Not all of us including me are expert sparkys.

However I do agree that if in doubt get it checked out. Electricity and fluids are not a good mix, pretty fatal really as a guy discovered in my old home town when he was repairing a customers washing machine. Big turn out for the funeral though no compensation for him or his family.

PH

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Redwood has nailed it. Any enclosure with mains leads should be inside a properly closed box, not an easily opened snack box.

Basic mains requirements (excluding 'double insulated' items) are two layers of insulation between the conductor and the user.

Just look at a 13 amp plug design. Not easily breakable, only unscrewed while unplugged, fuse inaccessible while plugged in, cable clamp on outer insulation, earth conductor last to be lost in the event of severe mechanical stretching, fuse on live side, plastic coated prongs to prevent connections to the mains while the plug is inserted in a socket, and likely a few more.

All this careful design for someone to come along and stick a live mains circuit in a tuppperware box? Crazy! (and stupid , as well).

What RAB said about the earth conductor being last to part contact if the flex is pulled out of the plug does of course require the plug to have been wired correctly. Sadly this is not always the case with plugs fitted by members of the public.

 

[idg]

Mine is set up in a working fridge.
I have the stc1000 linked up to 2 light bulbs for the heat output, and switches the power to the fridge for the cool output. It means I can cool things as well. Ideal for soft set honey at 14C when the ambient is higher like now.
The heater / cooler is fully flexible for my needs.

 

[Eyeman]

Hi

Could someone please help me set up my STC 1000 controller. For someone without elec experience the instructions are scant.
As confirmed by Nige and Dexter it seems power must go to the control unit and heater. I've tried to follow Dexter's video but no luck as he doesn't say what happens to the blue wires.

So in layman's terms plse:
Brown and blue wire from mains goes into a block.
From the block two brown wires come out - apparently, one into terminal (1) Mains and the other, (5) Heating of the thermostat.
So what happens for the blue wire - are there also two blue wires out of the block and these go into (2) and (6)?
Then which terminal does the single blue and brown wire from the heating tube go into?
The earth wires I understand - they just by-pass the thermostat.

Thanks in advance.

Here's a temperature controller that I've been using for my warming cabinet. It has the advantage of being a 'plug in and go' straight from the box. Good option for those without the necessary wiring skills!
Can't claim it's accurate to 0.1'C but my fridge thermometer shows close agreement.

 

[oliver90owner]

Looks like a sensible option for those with no electrical skills/knowledge. The one thing I note is there appears to be no cable protection at the entry points to the box. Should be a grommet or other protective clamp to prevent any possibility of chafing. It is a plastic enclosure, so better than a metal one!

For a simple low power (100W) honey warmer (up to about 35 degrees Celsius) one of the easier options might be a vivarium thermostat. Cheap and cheerful from the well known ' big river' or epay sites. The STC1000 type is better for higher temperature applications, mind (5 or10 amp switching contacts).

I note that the vivarium stats I have are likely below current legal safety standards, in that there is no maximum swiching power on the actual item (no rating plate). Not going to affect me as I only need about 10W maximum (I know these are rated at 300W), to maintain my 25l buckets of fermenting wine/mead at 18 degrees Celsius.

RAB