Cell builder setup question(s)

[Peterjay]

Just when think that I'm getting the hang of beekeeping, something new comes along to force me to think again.
I'm following the NBU workbook on queen rearing (by the Miller Method). I know there are better methods and alternative information sources, but the instructions are step by step and seem good for a complete novice at this.
1. Having arranged your two brood boxes, they say that the Cloake board should be closed straight away. Would it be better to allow time for nurse bees to equalise, and find their way to the brood?
2. There are honey supers beyond the current queen excluder; should I clear the bees down to the brood and remove the supers for the duration of the cell building?
3. What about the bottom box? It's going to loose foragers as well as access to super or feeder (if fitted). How much will they need in stores?
I would really appreciate a bit of guidance on this; as always, I'm sure I will have missed the point on some things and that there are a variety of opinions and experiences to hear.

 

[simonwig]

I don’t claim to be an expert, indeed I know I’m not. Having just set up a Cloake Board with my first ever grafting (7 out of 20 cells drawn which I’m happy with), my suggestions are below.

Having arranged your two brood boxes, they say that the Cloake board should be closed straight away. Would it be better to allow time for nurse bees to equalise, and find their way to the brood?

I put some frames of open brood above the QE, before adding the Cloake Board, and left it for an hour or two so nurse bees would move up, and then put the board in. I then shook the bees off in the top box and moved the open brood back down, except for one frame with no eggs/very young larvae if possible.


There are honey supers beyond the current queen excluder; should I clear the bees down to the brood and remove the supers for the duration of the cell building?

Yes, although you can leave the supers above the clearer board if easier and it will only be about 4 days.


What about the bottom box? It's going to lose foragers as well as access to super or feeder (if fitted). How much will they need in stores?

The two boxes are only separated for a day (or two), you remove the Cloake board once the Q cells start to be drawn, overnight in my case, so a frame of stores in the bottom box should be fine.


Others with more experience may correct me or add more/better information!!

Good luck.

Simon

 

[jarmo henttu]

Just when think that I'm getting the hang of beekeeping, something new comes along to force me to think again.
I'm following the NBU workbook on queen rearing (by the Miller Method). I know there are better methods and alternative information sources, but the instructions are step by step and seem good for a complete novice at this.
1. Having arranged your two brood boxes, they say that the Cloake board should be closed straight away. Would it be better to allow time for nurse bees to equalise, and find their way to the brood?
2. There are honey supers beyond the current queen excluder; should I clear the bees down to the brood and remove the supers for the duration of the cell building?
3. What about the bottom box? It's going to loose foragers as well as access to super or feeder (if fitted). How much will they need in stores?
I would really appreciate a bit of guidance on this; as always, I'm sure I will have missed the point on some things and that there are a variety of opinions and experiences to hear.

Miller method is splended.

You need those laborous methods if you rear 100 queen in one summer.