Can i move capped brood

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fullframe45

House Bee
Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
191
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Location
lancashire
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
4 --5.
I have a hive that is very busy and contains several frames of solid(for want of a better word)capped brood. I also have a hive that is about two miles away not so busy and i was thinking of moving a couple of frames of capped brood to this hive from the busy hive.
My idea is to remove the frame's and replace with foundation then place in a small 5 frame poly box and then move to the other hive. Moving in the afternoon while the weather is warm. Is this safe to do or should i just leave as is. Thank You.
 
No point in moving loads of brood over if the recipient colony is too weak to handle it - it could push them over the edge

I don't see that a weak colony has to 'handle' capped brood. The donated brood will hatch and Shirley can only strengthen the weaker colony?
Obviously necessary to check the weaker colony for stores and disease before the donation.
 
Due to running out of boxes and not in the position of being able to site or buy more ,my plan was to try and juggle frames around and ease pressure .The colony seems healthy to me with my limited knowledge and with no sighns of disease etc just slow to build up . I have also seen on this site in the past that sometimes donor frames can be added to similar hives giving them a boost. Thank you.
 
Due to running out of boxes and not in the position of being able to site or buy more ,my plan was to try and juggle frames around and ease pressure .The colony seems healthy to me with my limited knowledge and with no sighns of disease etc just slow to build up . I have also seen on this site in the past that sometimes donor frames can be added to similar hives giving them a boost. Thank you.

Maybe just move one frame of capped brood at first so they can definitely keep it warm?
 
I will do as you sugest and just move one frame first and see how it goes. Thank You .
 
For my money ... Bee colonies usually reach what I consider to be an individual colony mass - this rather depends on a number of factors, the principle one being the fecundity of the queen. The forage available will also usually have a bearing on the colony development. Trying to artificially increase their ability to grow, by adding frames of brood, in a colony that at this time of the year is still classed as a weaker colony, is a waste of brood.

Unless you have a reason for temporarily boosting the colonies size, for instance, when taking colonies to the heather - where you have a limited time frame to take advantage of the forage - then trying to bolster a weaker colony by taking frames from a stronger colony is just not good beekeeping practice.

I do think that having a specific donor colony available to add frames of brood to colonies that are already strong and developing well is a good idea - more bees - more honey. But .. a weaker colony is weaker for a reason and blindly adding brood to try and rectify the situation ... well ... I think you already know where I'm coming from.
 
I have a hive that is very busy and contains several frames of solid(for want of a better word)capped brood. I also have a hive that is about two miles away not so busy and i was thinking of moving a couple of frames of capped brood to this hive from the busy hive.
My idea is to remove the frame's and replace with foundation then place in a small 5 frame poly box and then move to the other hive. Moving in the afternoon while the weather is warm. Is this safe to do or should i just leave as is. Thank You.

If you strong sounding colony isn't showing signs of swarming then why not just Demeree the brood to give the Q room and to postpone any lingering thoughts of them swarming or double brood them.
With bees a plan is needed to deal with strong colonies or ones that show signs of swarming removing one or two frames only gives you a day or two before you are back to the same predicament.
 
I have just got back from inspecting this hive in the out apiary so after your comments i thought i would have a thorough check .It is a DB and i went through all the frames and super 3 times. Lots of nectar some pollon and some stores ,but no Brood Q or eggs etc . However i did see quite a few polished cells and the bees were quite calm and what looked like an old Q Cell empty.
So once back home i found my notes (scriblings) for this hive i had not inspected it for well over a week due to it being slow to build up.
Again due to my lack of experience i am not sure if there is a Q either virgin un mated or whatever or the hive is hoplesly q less.
 
I have just got back from inspecting this hive in the out apiary so after your comments i thought i would have a thorough check .It is a DB and i went through all the frames and super 3 times. Lots of nectar some pollon and some stores ,but no Brood Q or eggs etc . However i did see quite a few polished cells and the bees were quite calm and what looked like an old Q Cell empty.
So once back home i found my notes (scriblings) for this hive i had not inspected it for well over a week due to it being slow to build up.
Again due to my lack of experience i am not sure if there is a Q either virgin un mated or whatever or the hive is hoplesly q less.
Test frame then
 
Always put a frame of brood that is emerging into a weak hive. You get an almost instant boost and no worries about keeping it warm because it should be empty in a few days. I know not always easy to find with a few hives but if you can it's better than putting a full frame that could be in there some time. Stick it near the side that gets the sun's heat all day and move the frames that have bees on them around it but don't stick it right on the end. Nine times out of ten the bees will be on that side anyway
 
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Weak colony on double brood AND asuper? How are you expecting a weak colony to keep all that space warm - and extra capped brood - before it EMERGES (not hatch).

I suggest you go back to basics and re-think your beekeeping strategy.
 
Weak colony on double brood AND asuper? How are you expecting a weak colony to keep all that space warm - and extra capped brood - before it EMERGES (not hatch).

I suggest you go back to basics and re-think your beekeeping strategy.
To the point but true .....
 

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