Bees using stores at an alarning rate

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Frankly, if i had a colony that actually needed fondant now, they'd get the whole 12.5kg block. Why pish about when theyre sure to need it.
Up to now I have never used that much on eight colonies let alone one over winter..i dont mind doing weekly checks through the clear crown boards to see what they have eaten aswell as hefting.
 
I am wondering what strain of bee is galloping through stores as certainly here it's been pretty cool the last week or so.

PH
 
No ... it's not what he said. I agree with what you said .. if they need it feed it.

And as advice to any beginner...... if in any doubt fling the fondant on.
Easier and happier to remove excess stores come spring than clean out a hive of dead starved bees.
 
:iagree:

We can all agree that dead bees produce no honey.

Feed. I would though contemplate the food bill this strain is generating.

*tip*

PH
 
And as advice to any beginner...... if in any doubt fling the fondant on.
Easier and happier to remove excess stores come spring than clean out a hive of dead starved bees.

Better to teach beginners the right way and explain the reason that just advising them to 'fling on the fondant' ... lousy beekeeping IMO.
 
Better to teach beginners the right way and explain the reason that just advising them to 'fling on the fondant' ... lousy beekeeping IMO.
No-one has said just fling on the fondant, Millet and myself have both stated that "IF IN DOUBT".
Until people have the experience to judge store levels accurately....not an easy task....it is far better to fling some fondant on if they are not sure of the state of stores. I think it's very good advice, you think it's lousy.
Better fed than dead.
 
No-one has said just fling on the fondant, Millet and myself have both stated that "IF IN DOUBT".
Until people have the experience to judge store levels accurately....not an easy task....it is far better to fling some fondant on if they are not sure of the state of stores. I think it's very good advice, you think it's lousy.
Better fed than dead.

NO ... I didn't say it was lousy advice .. what I said was that feeding when uneccesary is lousy beekeeping. I don't altogether agree that beginners are not capable of good judgement about feeding their bees. There are plenty of threads on here (and quite recent ones) describing how to weigh hives and I think early stage beekeepers are usually quite keen to monitor their colonies as they progress through their first or second winter. A set of scales .. a notebook and pencil and an eye on the reducing weight as winter progresses is much better beekeeping than you and millets chuck on the fondant and hope for the best. Whilst you are weighing the hives get used to hefting and in time the scales won't be needed.

Like I said, lousy beekeeping and I see it all the time .. people slapping fondant on colonies in October 'just in case'.

The time for fondant should be when you have got it all wrong, haven't fed your colonies sufficiently at the end of the season and run into a light colony when there is no forage about, not as a continual feed through winter.
 
s is much better beekeeping than you and millets chuck on the fondant and hope for the best.

Whoa there matey......... In no way, nor at any time, have either Millet or I ever said chuck fondant on and hope for the best.
Please thoroughly read mine (or Millets) posts before responding with this fiction.
 
Feed. I would though contemplate the food bill this strain is generating.

Buckfast, most F1's and F2's are quite frugal. Odd exceptions, there are always exceptions. Currently out of about 20 hives of Buckfast bees of various degrees of lineage I have one that has used it's stores and needed fondant flung at it. It's an F2...practically a local bee genetically (well 75% local)...and vicious. Have it down in my notes as re-queen ASAP next spring.
 
Whoa there matey......... In no way, nor at any time, have either Millet or I ever said chuck fondant on and hope for the best.
Please thoroughly read mine (or Millets) posts before responding with this fiction.

When you get to the bottom of the hole it's always best to stop digging.

Regardless of what you have subsequently said Millet's original post was such that some people would read it as flinging on fondant regardless.

There should be no doubt about feeding if people are encouraged to weigh and monitor their hives ... good advice ..not half baked advice.
 
What may hold true for the balmy south may differ considerably for the more northern climes.

Personally I would far rather deal with an over fed colony (as there is a way forward) than have a dead one as they are beyond hope.


Better safe than sorry. Especially for the newbies.

PH
 
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:iagree:

We can all agree that dead bees produce no honey.

Feed. I would though contemplate the food bill this strain is generating.

*tip*

PH

Minimal substitute food given to honey extracted ratio..had roughly 500lb of honey this year from these bees..six colonies and two of which produced the most that had F1 Queens the F2 Queens halved the amount compared to the F1 Queens so to me it is a no brainer really to top whoever up when required..it cost me 20 quid for fondant this year with delivery (had 8kg left from last year)..a few quid more for sugar but hey ho i still made 80% more dosh than what it has cost to feed these lovely bees..so tell me where the problem lies old wise one..
 
In that case pargyle I am a lousy beekeeper. And happy to be so as I know that my methodology has saved colonies in the past.

Bees, well fed bees in our more northerly climes can and do starve in well fed hives.

ISOLATION is the issue not the amount of feed in the box. Please do try to get your head round it.

PH
 
I have a suggestion. Try reducing the amount of light getting into hive. Honeybees are stimulated into activity by light levels. Some black polythene or black correx under the hive will reduce the light coming in through the floor mesh. Depending on what is under hive stand, it can be quite bright in there for an animal evolved for dark tree nests.
 
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I have a suggestion. Try reducing the amount of light getting into hive. Honeybees are stimulated into activity by light levels. Some black polythene or black correx under the hive will reduce the light coming in through the floor mesh. Depending on what is under hive stand, it can be quite bright in there for an animal evolved for dark tree nests.

No light getting into my hives Derek..;) ..
 
In that case pargyle I am a lousy beekeeper. And happy to be so as I know that my methodology has saved colonies in the past.

Bees, well fed bees in our more northerly climes can and do starve in well fed hives.

ISOLATION is the issue not the amount of feed in the box. Please do try to get your head round it.

PH

You are basically doing this PH..:banghead: ..
 
Oh that,I'm quite used to that after 25 years of saying poly is better.

My hopes are on the newbies having more open minds.

*shrug*

PH
 

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