I'm using 95%. My wife (who has a M.Sc in Medicinal Chemistry) tells me that's enough. Is she wrong?
Depends on whether it needs to be sterile or just sanitized. 95% does not have the same lethality as 70%.
I'm using 95%. My wife (who has a M.Sc in Medicinal Chemistry) tells me that's enough. Is she wrong?
There are various degrees of sterilisation...sanitising is bad word to use as simply implies getting rid of....which can be anything from germs to whole populations of people.
To over simplify...3 major components to remove when sterilising anything....living bacteri, yeasts and spores.
70% Alchohol is universally accepted (and used throughout the scientific world) as being sufficient for killing off the vast majority of bacteria/fungi yeast etc.
But it's not good enough to kill many dormant bacterial spores...they require either dry or wet heat. Wet heat is considered via pressure cooker or autoclave as 15lb for at least 15 minutes. Dry heat is accepted as 180C for a 2 hours. They destroy/inactivate the proteins in the spores by different methods hence the temperature differences.
Both work...I prefer ovens as easier to to use than pressure cookers and no residual moisture left in sterilised item.
I'm sorry Beefriendly, but, I'm sure they'd not survive the oven even once.
But it is far simpler to use 70% ethanol...
You can drink 70% ethanol. It's the same stuff that's in your current glass of vino/scotch G&T etc But more concentrated
You may be confusing it with methanol./iso propanol etc...... which are not good to drink...
Made some great "punches" in the past with bottles of 95% ethanol ..excise duty paid.
I meant ...that its denatured so people can't drink it
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I'm still worried about whether the leur connector would disintegrate after going through a pressure cooker a few times.
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I suppose this all boils down to the question: how clean is the queens median oviduct? Any comments?
NO. TOTAL RUBBISH..70% ethanol ,is not "denatured" it's the same alcohol that is in your current poison....and requires excise duty paid on it. I used to be in charge if our bonded storage area for the stuff. Even though it was used for science you couldn't avoid the excise duty.
You are mixing up methylated spirits with pure ethanol...Meths is adulterated with other substances to make it poisonous.
Thank you for your input on alternative methods but I have successfully inseminated queens for quite some years following my wifes advice (she usually knows what she is talking about). Other people may be able to make use of it but there seems to be difficulties in using these alternatives that only come to light with practical experience of the equipment itself.
In which case sanitization is all that you appear to need for the process.
One final little tip (no pun intended) going down the sanitizing route - a contact time of at least two minutes with 70% ethanol is recommended. If you use 70% ethanol there's no need for rinsing with water - just ensure that all the 70% ethanol has evaporated off to dryness. That way you not only ensure proper contact time, i.e. that all vegetative microbes have been killed, but also avoid potential contamination from the water rinse.
Probably stupid questions as I am a complete newbie to all of this. Can all sanitizing be done with alcohol? Is 95% better than 70% as for some reason it is cheaper here at €0.75c for 250ml and is the contact time reduced with this concentration?
Thank you for your input. I will take it under advisement (i.e. discuss it with Mrs B+) and, if necessary, change the ethanol but I am loathe to change a system that works unnecessarily.
I suspect that the internal diameter of the tip, micropipette and tubing (the tip measures 0.15mm at the business end) will delay evaporation of the ethanol in the way you describe, but, I can try it and see.
I understand your concern regarding the capillary action of the micropipette retarding evaporation but you will have the same problem with a water rinse the difference being that there is a risk of growth with water (not so with 70% ethanol) and 70% ethanol is more volatile so will dry out better than distilled water. So long as you check the tips are dry before use there should be no problem. Obviously any residues of ethanol will be harmful to harvesting so the check is critical.
but I am loathe to change a system that works unnecessarily.
Well why would you.
As usual masses of over complication here which corresponds to 'know it alls' interference.
KISS
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